{"id":622144,"date":"2026-09-20T18:56:18","date_gmt":"2026-09-20T18:56:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/622144\/"},"modified":"2026-09-20T18:56:18","modified_gmt":"2026-09-20T18:56:18","slug":"christopher-kane-and-mulberry-make-swaggering-joint-comeback-at-london-fashion-week-london-fashion-week","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/622144\/","title":{"rendered":"Christopher Kane and Mulberry make swaggering joint comeback at London fashion week | London fashion week"},"content":{"rendered":"

With spicy leather mini-dresses and shoes with miniature axes for heels, two beloved British names made a swaggering joint comeback at London fashion week<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Fifteen years ago, Christopher Kane<\/a> and Mulberry were two of the biggest shows on the line-up. Kane was the brilliant young designer who could find fashion in the most unlikely places: rubberised lace minis were inspired by \u201cPrincess Margaret on acid\u201d; while illustrations from the 1972 classic The Joy of Sex appeared on slinky slip dresses. Mulberry was London\u2019s home-grown It-bag brand: anyone who was anyone had a Bayswater or an Alexa.<\/p>\n

The pandemic hit independent designers hard, and Kane placed his brand in administration in 2023. Mulberry hit the ropes after price hikes misfired, fighting off a takeover bid as profits plunged. But a new chief executive and a renewed focus on Britishness and craft is fuelling a revival at Mulberry, with sales up 23% in the first quarter of this year. The appointment of Kane as creative director<\/a> signals the return of serious style ambition at Mulberry, and gives a new platform for Kane\u2019s talent.<\/p>\n

There were leather sheath dresses and elegantly spare leather car coats, as well as heeled loafers featuring Mulberry\u2019s signature postman\u2019s lock. Composite: Getty images<\/p>\n

On paper, it is an unlikely match. Mulberry<\/a> is rooted in its Somerset factories and makes understated practical bags; Kane has a flair for bad-girl party dresses learned on the streets of Glasgow where he grew up.<\/p>\n

Where they meet is leather. There were leather sheath dresses and elegantly spare leather car coats, as well as heeled loafers featuring Mulberry\u2019s signature postman\u2019s lock. Kane builds each collection around one visual motif \u2013 Frankenstein, gorillas, the reproductive organs of plants \u2013 and for this collection, took the castellated leather flaps of Mulberry\u2019s Bayswater bags and turned them into notched hems and necklines. This was punchy, full-throttle fashion, accessorised with money-making bags and shoes.<\/p>\n

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Simone Rocha on the runway on Sunday. Photograph: Shutterstock<\/p>\n

\u201cTown, city, country\u201d was Kane\u2019s name for the show. Colours were inspired by \u201cthe bleak, post-industrial Scotland where I grew up \u2013 grey concrete, and coalminer orange\u201d. Soft plaid checks added a rustic touch. \u201cI want Mulberry to be about a Britishness that\u2019s not London-centric,\u201d he said backstage.<\/p>\n

This London fashion week has renewed confidence and a packed schedule of shows. Simone Rocha said that a story about an unknown Caravaggio discovered in a Dublin drawing room set her thinking about \u201cbeautiful things in unobvious places\u201d, which in turn led to her knockout dresses, intricate silk roses trailing from hems or half-hidden under tulle. Erdem found a muse in Barbette, an avant-garde trapeze artist in 1920s Paris whose act ended with the revelation that \u201cshe\u201d was a Texas-born man. Leotard-tight dresses were veiled in spiders\u2019 webs of crystals, or worn with high-collared circus master coats.<\/p>\n

Edeline Lee dressed artists from the Royal Ballet in her dance-inspired pieces \u2013 neatly waisted, full-skirted dresses and practice-studio slouchy knits \u2013 for a catwalk in a north London school sports hall. Emilia Wickstead describes herself as \u201can old-school girl. I love classic shapes, vintage references. I have jazz music playing. But I\u2019m always trying to make things a little foreign, a little forbidden, too.\u201d She is \u201coutgrowing the space\u201d at the London boutique that usually doubles as a tiny catwalk, so this season she filmed a show and held screenings, enabling a set design of interwoven pastel rooms \u201cthat we couldn\u2019t have done here physically, and don\u2019t have the budget for\u201d. American artist Lee Krasner inspired silk dresses, painted with daisies and overlaid with an apron of fine tweed sprouting colourful threads like flecks of paint, and striped artists\u2019 shirts.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"With spicy leather mini-dresses and shoes with miniature axes for heels, two beloved British names made a swaggering…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":622145,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[146,85,46],"class_list":["post-622144","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-entertainment","tag-entertainment","tag-il","tag-israel"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/622144","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=622144"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/622144\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/622145"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=622144"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=622144"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=622144"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}