Mountain guide Thomas Vialletet died on Aoraki Mt Cook.

Thomas Vialletet who died on Aoraki Mount Cook was described as a careful and diligent guide.
Photo: Supplied

The New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA) says guide Thomas Vialletet who died on Aoraki Mount Cook was careful and diligent with experience climbing the mountain.

On Tuesday police recovered his body and that of a climber from the United States, who died in an overnight fall on Aoraki Mount Cook .

They were climbers were in a party of four, made up of two New Zealand guides and two clients.

They were roped together in pairs, climbing from Empress Hut to the summit when the two fell from the mountain’s west ridge.

Police confirmed one of the climbers was from the US and said they were working with US consulate.

Aoraki Mount Cook

On Tuesday police recovered the body of a mountain guide from Aoraki Mt Cook.
Photo: Unsplash / Corey Serravite

Thomas Vialletet, owner of IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guide, grew up in the French Alps where he had been climbing, skiing and exploring mountains for over two decades.

NZMGA president Anna Keeling said he was a member of their organisation and was “careful and diligent”. She said he had been guiding for at least 12 years.

He was married with two young children, she said, and had been based in New Zealand for a decade.

Keeling said he was an internationally certified mountain guidem who had last climbed Aoraki Mount Cook just two weeks ago, “via the quite difficult East Ridge”.

“He was very qualified to be up there and knew the route well and knew the conditions well this year. So it’s very shocking.”

Keeling said the conditions on Aoraki Mount Cook at the moment were favourable after all the snow in the past couple of months, but that there was always some risk.

“We make our clients aware also that we are risk managers, that we cannot entirely eliminate risk.”

“But they’re willing to accept it for the opportunity for a really tremendous experience, especially on New Zealand’s highest peaks.”

“Being up on the summit ridge of Aoraki is an incredible experience with amazing views, […] it’s actually indescribable how amazing it is up there. But that reward comes with risk.”

She said Aoraki Mount Cook was considered a riskier mountain to guide.

“I have guided Aoraki a number of times. I would say it’s the hardest thing we do as New Zealand guides.”

Keeling said it was a difficult, arduous and incredibly long climb, and also involved climbing in the dark.

“Climbing at night is typical because it typically freezes at night and we like to travel on our crampons in firm snow rather than really punchy, soft snow,” she said.

Keeling said where the climbers fell was a very exposed spot with “no margin for error.”

She said the New Zealand mountain guiding community was like a family and the guide’s death was a huge blow to the community.

She said their hearts also went out to the guide’s family and friends.

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