From fine-dining to cheap eats, Anna King Shahab rounds up some of Ponsonby’s best bars, restaurants, cafes and more.
Ponsonby has reigned supreme as Tāmaki Makaurau’s pre-eminent hospitality precinct for decades. Faithful favourites rub shoulders with young upstarts along the main strip Ponsonby Rd and down side streets and lanes,
as well as in the bustling Ponsonby Central development. There’s no way of covering all the goodness in one go, so consider this my starter tick list for getting to know Ponsonby bite by bite, sip by sip.
Indoor and out
Eateries with great seating options inside and out.
San Ray
Open all day with flavours of SoCal and Mexico leading the culinary charge, San Ray boasts a lovely main dining space with heritage touches and a good-sized sheltered courtyard out the back, as well as a gorgeous private dining space upstairs. It’s my favourite place for coffee and breakfast meetings (special shoutout to the pea milk option for coffee – so lush!).
118 Ponsonby Rd. Sanray.nz
The Blue Breeze Inn
With a covered veranda and beachy furnishings, this long-standing establishment lives up to its name and the digs perfectly suit the Chinese-meets-Pacific menu.
Ponsonby Central, 146 Ponsonby Rd. Thebluebreezeinn.co.nz
Hotel Ponsonby’s courtyard. Photo / Babiche Martens
Hotel Ponsonby
Inside, retro Axminster rugs and furniture lend a nostalgic pub vibe, and the brickwork courtyard out the back gets the best of the afternoon sun. Table service extends to the outdoors, even if it’s heaving and you’re just ordering drinks; the efficiency and friendliness of staff is one of the things that elevates the offering. The chicken schnitty rivals any across the Tasman.
1 St Marys Bay Rd. Hotelponsonby.co.nz
Ponsonby institution Prego has been operating since 1986. Photo / Babiche Martens
Prego
It doesn’t take bookings so you wait at the entrance of this institution (she’s 40 next year) bang on opening time not only to secure a table, but with luck, one outdoors in the walled, shaded front courtyard. Prego diehards consider it the number one for group dining – whether client lunches, dinner with the girls or family birthdays.
226 Ponsonby Rd. Prego.co.nz
Long lunch legends
Where what’s on the plate is secondary to the Champagne on ice and people-watching over the rim of your sunglasses.
Jacuzzi. Photo / Babiche Martens
Jacuzzi
As SPQR, this Ponsonby possie was the spot for streetside dining for more than three decades, and since Jacuzzi opened doors in February this year it has carried the mantle.
150 Ponsonby Rd. Jacuzzibar.co.nz
GiGi
Attractive happy hours and dining offers are complemented by a lively atmosphere with DJs on duty.
165 Ponsonby Rd. Gigiponsonby.com
Hidden Gems
Off the main strip, these places are harder to stumble upon, but worthy of turning a corner for.
The chip and dip on the menu at Blue. Photo / Babiche Martens
Blue
The cool new kid on the block from the couple who brought the city the much-loved, experimental Karangahape Rd dining space Roses wouldn’t be out of place in Melbourne or London. As well as a petite dining space at kitchen level, there are tables dotted around the plane tree-shaded courtyard, and the “blue room” – great for groups but equally for laptop-toting coffee hunters during the day. The short menu is super seasonal but there’s always a salad, always a cheese plate, and the signature house Kiwi onion dip with roe will never disappear.
1/1A Franklin Rd. Blueonfranklin.co.nz
Me Thai
Opposite Blue, this small Thai restaurant has a cute mezzanine level to dine in. All the spice pastes are made from scratch rather than from a jar, and you’ll taste the difference.
2a Franklin Rd. Methai.nz
Eden Noodles Bar
Take your pick of three lanes to wind up at this restaurant and bar hidden from view, where the same Sichuan dishes made famous at the original Mt Eden site are yours to enjoy, with the added bonus of inventive cocktails alongside. The dumplings in spicy sauce will never be beaten.
130 Ponsonby Rd. Edennoodlesbar.co.nz
Bare Wine
It’s very tempting to gate-keep Bare Wine because it’s already hard to nab a table, but it deserves to be celebrated more widely. Equal parts cellar door, wine shop, wine bar and casual restaurant – the French have a handy term for it, cave à manger – is run by a pair of French, wine-obsessed friends. The space – much like its wines, which are interesting, low-intervention, natural, organic and biodynamic – has a rustic charm that’s refreshing in a highly polished world. There’s no by-the-glass list to rely on; staff garner your preferences and pour you something to suit. The French fare includes dishes you won’t find anywhere else, like quenelle – a Lyonnaise specialty somewhere between dumpling and souffle, which top chefs visit for. Look out for Les Bouchons nights, showcasing regions of France through wine and food.
3C/49 Brown St. Barewine.co.nz
Slashies
Multi-talented establishments – depending what time of day or night you visit, the offering an atmosphere shifts to suit the mood.
Beau Deli. Photo / Babiche Martens
Beau and Beau Deli
Call into or park up at the deli for coffee, salads, sandwiches, and a very good cheese scone. The restaurant and wine bar kicks off from midday or 2pm depending on the day, and is that place you might start with lunch and tick over into a late afternoon cheeseboard (it boasts aged comte, Delice de Borgogne, Bleu d’Auvergne and Epoisses – how can you not?)
265 Ponsonby Rd. Beauponsonby.co.nz
Bodega’s vodka chicken sandwich and its namesake Bodega sandwich. Photo / @Bodega_akl
Bodega
By day, come for coffee, flaky pastries and fat-as sandwiches. Return as the sun begins to sink, slide in next to friends and strangers and the shared tables that line the footpath, and order a wine or cocktail.
86 Ponsonby Rd. Bodegadeli.co.nz
Kol
Whatever food mood you’re in, modern Indian restaurant and bar Kol has an answer. An express lunch on weekdays, an exciting a la carte menu or chef’s selection if you’re that way inclined, and grab-and-go kebabs and kulcha on the weekend.
23 Ponsonby Rd. Kolauckland.co.nz
The Broken Lantern
After dark is for party mode. Arrive earlier on and, in peace and quiet, you’ll enjoy pub fare done really well, including daily specials like Thursday’s $25 sirloin with fries, or Tuesday’s $10 burgers (the chicken burger is superb). Sunday afternoons are for roasts, which change up regularly and are great value – you need to book as spots fill fast.
198 Ponsonby Rd. Brokenlantern.co.nz
Lucky 8
Asian tapas are the constant, but take them how you want to: bottomless brunch, two or three for a light meal, cover the table with them with a group of friends. Or flag the food and just go for a drink at the bar – this neon-happy, first-floor eatery is always buzzing, with DJs on weekends and pocket-friendly prices.
161 Ponsonby Rd. Lucky8.co.nz
The specialists
These places don’t try to do it all, they aim to do fewer things better than most.
Farina restaurant in Ponsonby. Photo / Babiche Martens
Farina
No mucking about, straight-up excellent Italian, much better than you’ll ever cook at home. Pizza, pasta, an oyster and seafood bar, a friggatoria section dedicated to things fried, and even a mozzarella bar. I think that covers the Italian food dream.
244 Ponsonby Rd. Farina.co.nz
Khu Khu boasts fabulous 100% vegan Thai food with bold flavours and lovely service.
Khu Khu
Thai food, but make it vegan. You will not miss meat in the line-up of flavour-packed dishes on Khu Khu’s menu, which present like a canvas of colours and textures. It saves the day for those who, after a few drinks, want something to eat that’s not a kebab – on Friday and Saturday from 8pm there’s a menu of $9 snacks to hit the spot.
171A Ponsonby Rd. Khukhu.co.nz
Beautiful and delicately presented dishes are Cocoro’s specialty. Photo / Sylvie Whinray
Cocoro
Down the hill from all the noise, behind a discreet entrance on Brown St, Cocoro embodies the Japanese concept kaizen – continuous improvement through incremental changes. Chef and owner Makoto Tokuyama isn’t focused on fame or accolades (although he gets the latter, in every restaurant awards programme), but on making and serving elegant, delicious Japanese cuisine that makes the most of premium Aotearoa produce. Order the signature sashimi platter and die happy.
56A Brown St. Cocoro.co.nz
Little Bird
This plant-based wholefoods cafe and store is an especially welcoming place for customers with allergies and intolerances, but omnivores will love it, too.
Summer St & Ponsonby Rd. Littlebirdorganics.co.nz
Fluorescent lights, stools and accoutrements bring a brightness to Bali Nights. Photo / Babiche Martens
Bali Nights
Transporting the flavours of roadside warung in the tropics to the concrete jungle of Williamson Ave, Bali Nights serves Indonesian street food favourites like nasi goreng, beef rendang and chicken satay in the city’s most colourful dining room.
4 Williamson Ave. Balinights.co
Mumbaiwala. Photo / Babiche Martens
Mumbaiwala
While many Indian restaurants feel pressure to cover off the entire catalogue of the country’s rich food history in one tome of a menu, Mumbaiwala takes Indian street food, and particularly that from Mumbai, as the inspiration and weaves a delicious tapestry of eats.
252 Ponsonby Rd. Mumbaiwala.co.nz
Daily Bread
It does what it says on the tin, expertly: all the bread things (including pastries), daily from 7am till 3pm. It’s widely considered to be among the best bakeries in the country. The Ponsonby branch has a lovely, calm atmosphere and is a great place to park up for a solo treat (hot tip: when the festive fruit mince pies are in season, Daily Bread’s sour cherry rendition is sublime).
108 Ponsonby Rd. Dailybread.co.nz
Sweet treats
Where to satisfy a sugar craving.
Duck Island ice cream shop on Ponsonby Rd.
Duck Island
Quite possibly Hamilton’s most successful export, Duck Island commands a permanent queue. Flavours are fun, and you needn’t worry about choice paralysis because they generously let you choose two flavours per scoop.
1/182 Ponsonby Rd. Duckislandicecream.co.nz
Miann Chocolate Factory
The city’s – nay the country’s pre-eminent chocolatier recently moved its factory (the artisan kind) to Ponsonby Central. Everything is far too pretty to eat but that won’t stop you. Bean-to-bar chocolates, gelato, macarons and creative cakes brought to vivid life with technical precision.
Ponsonby Central, 136 Ponsonby Rd. Miannchocolatefactory.com
Island Gelato
Decadently topped gelato and sorbet in flavours that span more-is-more, like Pic’s peanut butter caramel and summer berry ambrosia, or pared-back purity like sorbets of basil and lime or tamarillo (you either love or hate the subtropical tree tomato fruit, or you’ve never tasted it and are about to find out). The decadent toppings are a huge drawcard in themselves. Also available: eye-catching gelato cakes.
124 Ponsonby Rd. Islandgelato.co.nz
Little ‘Lato
Home of inventive and unexpected flavours, this gelaterie collaborates with all sorts of brands and products in the quest to find new taste territory.
119 Ponsonby Rd. Littlelato.co.nz
Honeymoon Avenue
Matcha (and more) your way – classic, iced, shaved ice, and dessert (hello, matchamisu).
168 Ponsonby Rd. Instagram.com/meetmeonhoneymoon
Lulu’s and Lulu’s Neighbourhood Bowls
Gain Brownie points with a teenager in your life by treating them to a work-of-art açai bowl or matcha from Lulu’s at its original, hole-in-the-wall outpost in Ponsonby Central, or check out its newer site with dine-in capacity on Williamson Ave, where the açai and matcha are joined by smoothies, pastries, juice and soft serve.
2 Williamson Ave. Instagram.com/lulus.nz
Freedom dining
Choose your own adventure.
Ponsonby International Food Court
If the idea of ordering for a group from one restaurant menu gives you anxiety, flag that and head to Ponsonby International Food Court, where everyone can pick whatever they want from the array of vendors, with not a shared plate in sight. Despite its accidentally official sounding name, this 22-year-old food court isn’t the Hague of gourmands and won’t be judging you on your choices, which include kebabs, Malaysian, Thai, Italian, Vietnamese and more. Food courts are an endangered species (RIP Mercury Plaza and Food Alley) so please help keep this specimen alive.
106 Ponsonby Rd. Ponsonbyfoodcourt.co.nz
Too many great places, don’t know where to start? Book in for The Big Foody Food Tour to get a curated experience of Ponsonby’s best. Aotearoa’s preeminent food tour is launching its new Ponsonby tour in early January, with bookings now open at thebigfoody.com
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