Last year New Zealand exported more than 330 million bottles of its ubiquitous sauvignon blanc, so whichever way you square it there are a lot of fridge doors containing a bottle of vibrant gooseberry and green pepper-infused wine. I never tire of its bright acidity and capacity to refresh. But it does feel a shame that this diverse country has become synonymous with one grape variety.
Wine lovers will know that New Zealand also produces excellent examples of the two Burgundian grapes chardonnay and pinot noir, but look closer and there is so much more on offer. The country exports a mere 12 million bottles of its second most popular grape, pinot gris (or pinot grigio as it’s known in Italy), yet at its best it’s highly drinkable, with a gentle aroma and a soft texture. Try to track down something like the peachy, very dry 2024 Esk Valley Pinot Gris (Hic! Wine Merchants, £13.50).
Similarly, aromatic, high-acidity whites such as albariño, riesling and gewürztraminer also thrive in a country that has such a variety of climates and soil types. Sample the off-dry, light and moderate-strength 2023 The Doctors’ Riesling from Forrest Wines in Marlborough (Majestic, £12).
Merlot and pinot noir dominate Kiwi reds, but alongside its cabernet sauvignon and bordeaux-inspired blends I’m excited about the country’s excellent syrah, particularly from Hawke’s Bay on the North Island, which has abundant dark fruit and refined peppery flavours. This grape is more associated with the northern Rhône than the supple interpretation you find down under. Here are six more suggestions to get you out of the sauvignon trap.
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2023 Oyster Bay Merlot (12.5%)
Asda, £10.50
This soft, supple merlot has good berry flavour, with a velvety texture and dark fruit and spice on the finish. A great red with food.
The Ned Pinot Grigio (13.5%)
Waitrose, £8 (down from £11)
There’s plenty of fresh tropical fruit here with floral notes on the nose, backed by nectarine and peach. Excellent value.
2024 Yealands Reserve Pinot Gris (13%)
Tesco, £12.50
Pinot gris has a richer texture than sauvignon blanc, with inviting notes of pear giving way to a steely, lingering dry tang.
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2024 Leftfield Gisborne Albariño (12.5%)
Tesco, £13.50
One of the few Kiwi albariños I’ve tasted and it’s a cracker, marrying peachy aromas with a clean, taut character.
2023 Mission Estate Gimblett Gravels Reserve Syrah (13%)
The Wine Society, £14.95
Hawke’s Bay makes world-class syrah and this has rich red berry, pepper and a silky body.
2025 Kumeu River Hand Harvested Pinot Gris (12%)
Tanners, £16.80
This is an exceptional pinot gris that melds zesty citrus with floral elements and a clean finish.
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Will’s pick from The Sunday Times Wine Club
2025 Hunter’s Marlborough Riesling (12%)
£15.99
The Hunter’s estate was one of the pioneers of New Zealand sauvignon blanc but its riesling shouldn’t be overlooked. This has crisp apple flavour paired with a satisfying splash of lime. Excellent with spicy Asian dishes.