When Carolyn Bessette added Kennedy to her last name, she played by her own rules.

In 1996, the former Calvin Klein publicist wed John F. Kennedy Jr. in a secret ceremony that took place on Georgia’s Cumberland Island — and the dress she chose was even more of a surprise than the couple’s intimate nuptials.

CBK, as she’s become known, eschewed a custom Calvin design in favor of a $40,000 Narciso Rodriguez bias-cut slip dress, which she paired with silk tulle opera gloves and a simple veil affixed to her slightly mussed bun.

She skipped jewelry, save for her sapphire-and-diamond engagement ring, which was inspired by a design owned by her late mother-in-law, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.

Bessette and Rodriguez met when they both worked for Klein, and the American fashion house has never done bridal. Her choice to go with a relatively unknown designer (who was then working at Cerruti Arte) was once again a testament to her ability to spot talent, go with her gut — and go against the grain.

FX’s “Love Story” depicted Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and John F. Kennedy Jr.’s secret 1996 wedding during the March 5 episode. FX

Carolyn wore a bias-cut Narciso Rodriguez dress that featured a slight cowl neck and hugged her curves. FX

She skipped jewelry in favor of a veil and tulle gloves, pulling her hair back in a bun. FX

The simple yet elegant choice was decidedly bold for a bride at the time. FX

However, even more surprising than the designer was the decision to go with a body-flattering silk crepe silhouette — one that requires perfect technique and high-quality fabric to deliver the desired effect of effortless beauty — rather than the trending ball gowns that were in style at the time.

“Given who she was marrying, there was some kind of level of expectation [of grandeur],” Sunita Kumar Nair, author of “CBK: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy: A Life in Fashion,” tells Page Six Style exclusively.

“When she stepped off those kind of rickety church steps wearing that dress, that was the only picture that you saw at the time of the dress. It really was quite a profound statement — not only of her taste, but also her confidence in in her taste.”

Nair, who also consulted on FX’s “Love Story,” added, “She dressed like this throughout her life. This was not something that she suddenly just turned on because she married John Jr. She had always kind of taken on this kind of minimal silhouette when she dressed, and this suited her very well in public life.”

CBK’s main priority, according to Nair, was “feeling confident and comfortable” no matter the setting.

“I think that was one of the criteria of her life. And and she just did it for her wedding day,” she said.

“I think that she was just really true to herself and really honest. And there was no compromise.”

Princess Diana’s 1981 wedding gown was famous for its 25-foot train and voluminous sleeves. Corbis via Getty Images

Her royal style was reflective of the era’s bridal trends. Getty Images

On ’90s runways, designers like John Galliano were perfecting the bias-cut dress, inspired by 1930s Madeleine Vionnet garments. But these simple styles were the opposite of what brides were buying at the time.

“Prior to Carolyn’s wedding, most celebrities were wearing ball gowns,” Mara Urshel, President and Co-Owner of Kleinfeld Bridal, tells us. “The influence of Princess Diana went into the early ’90s which inspired brides to continue to flock toward princess [styles]. Think dramatic skirts, cathedral trains and regal silhouettes.”

Besides Princess Diana’s dress, according to Urshel, brides also clamored for gowns similar to those worn by Celine Dion, Victoria Beckham and Julia Roberts in “Runaway Bride” — all notably marked by their volume, sweeping skirts and bold embellishments.

“The ‘90s marked a shift away from the ultra-voluminous and dramatic ’80s look to a sleeker, more refined bridal style. ‘90s bridal style was more about elegance with a mix of minimalism and romantic detail,” she adds.

Celine Dion, who wed in 1994, topped her intricate wedding gown with a tiara covered in 2,000 Swarovski crystals. It was so heavy that it famously sent her to the hospital. Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Jacqueline Kennedy married John F. Kennedy in 1953, wearing a silk taffeta gown with pleated designs around the skirt and bodice. Getty Images

Victoria Beckham went bold for her big day in 1999, wearing a corseted Vera Wang gown with a 20-foot train. davidbeckham/instagram

The “Carolyn effect” is still very much relevant in 2026. eBay experts tell us that searches for Narciso Rodriguez and white slip dresses are both up 15% year over year (from January 2025 to January 2026).

While the Kleinfeld customer is “more traditional,” Urshel says CBK is still, as always, on the mood board.

“Slip wedding dresses have become a staple in today’s bridal landscape. Brides seeking a sleek, minimalist aesthetic often gravitate toward this effortlessly elegant silhouette,” Urshel tells us.

“We’re also seeing slip dresses gain popularity among those planning intimate celebrations or destination weddings, offering a refined yet relaxed option for modern ceremonies.”