New Zealand designer Rory William Docherty made his London Fashion Week debut on Monday, with a new collection called ‘The Tides’. Madeleine Crutchley unpacks his thoughtful runway.
Windblown blouses and oceanic prints were showcased on the runway for New Zealand designer Rory William Docherty’s London Fashion Week debut.
The milestone moment was set within the grand 1901 Ballroom at Andaz London Liverpool St. Rory launched a new collection called “The Tides”. He utilised an intimate runway to spotlight signatures and debut delightful new developments.
Looks from the runway at Rory William Docherty. Photo / Getty Images
The significance of the international platform was affirmed ahead of the event – the designer was last week featured as “one to watch” in Elle and T Magazine by the New York Times.
As the collection’s title indicates, the collection draws aesthetic inspiration from the marine scenes and resilient coastlines of Aotearoa.
A signature cotton blouse from Rory William Docherty. Photo / Getty Images
Familiar pieces, like his billowing cotton Painter’s Shirt and secure trench coats were displayed simply on the runway – propelling staples of his label into view for a new audience.
Artful prints on silk juxtaposed orange, peach, sage and neon green against black, white and forest green. The patterns seemed to mimic minerals under a microscope in a striking high-contrast composition that felt fresh from the designer. There were tougher textures too, which Rory fashioned into more powerful structures. Both a reworked vintage denim jacket and high-shine black top boasted sharp shoulders.
A high impact look from Rory William Docherty’s London Fashion Week debut, featuring high-shine material and hood. Photo / Getty Images
Styling also affirmed the influence of a maritime setting.
Pieces made in collaboration with Grinter Glass Studio in Whangārei embellished a range of ensembles. The hand-blown, speckled glass glinted on necklaces, earrings and bags. Each seemed to resemble shells, stones, anemone and sea glass, plucked from the shallows or seen at great depths.
Bright tones contrast an earthy dark green. Photo / Getty Images
Branching straw hats and glass-fringed black coverings were the brief for the Lyttleton Hat Company (the coverings are all handmade), referencing organic matter from the dunes to the deep-sea.
The beauty looks, by Aleph founder Emma Peters, were minimal, warm-toned and sunny.
Even the scent that bloomed in the room was concocted by a local artisan: Cyan Noir of Frances Shoemack’s fragrance perfumery Abel created a sweet and salty spray. Appropriately, the perfume is “inspired by the vast expanse of the ocean”.
The runway ensembles are embellished with strings of hand-blown glass. Photo / Getty Images
On a global stage, Rory illuminated the work of fellow makers, drawing attention to those within Aotearoa who share his ethic for slow fashion and craft (the environmental inspiration feels particularly apt for a designer who works with eco-conscious practice).
“The Tides” at London Fashion Week is the continuation of a steady rise on the international stage. Rory’s first runway was just over two years ago – his debut solo show at New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria 2023 was celebrated as a standout. In 2024, he debuted in Sydney at Australian Fashion Week with a resort collection called “Love Collateral” featuring artful prints, floaty silhouettes and metallic textiles.
Since launching in 2017, Rory William Docherty has developed a distinct perspective that centres seasonless garments, genderless silhouettes, the translation of paint and print onto clothing, and high quality fabrication.
And, in his most high-profile moment yet, Rory let the spotlight shine on the land and people where it all began.
More local fashion
From emerging talents to statements through style.