The latest in our neighbourhood dining guides takes us to one of Auckland’s most exciting up-and-coming foodie hotspots.
Residents of Birkenhead have no shortage of tasty food and drink to hand, thanks to the dense retail hub of Highbury, and the increasingly interesting offerings cropping up along Hinemoa St with
its languorously pretty heritage shopfronts and villas, leading down to Birkenhead Point. Here are some of the places to put on your must-visit list.
Muzza’s Pies
Pie purveyors Muzza’s gained a loyal following over the years from its sole Mt Albert store and has recently expanded with this second branch in Highbury, bringing the flaky goodness to the Shore. All the classics, such as steak or mince and cheese, are joined by more adventurous fillings – don’t miss the creamed pāua turnover. Also don’t walk past with plans to “come back later” like I did: doors close at 2pm.
57 Birkenhead Ave, instagram.com/muzzaspies
Broke Boy Taco is the brainchild of Kentucky-born Sean Yarborough.
Broke Boy Taco
Another business that began in Mt Albert, Broke Boy Taco hit an instant home run and went on to open several more branches, including in Highbury. It sticks to its knitting with just a couple of options. Its mainstay is birria tacos – beef cooked with smoky chillies and spices over 16 hours, with cheese, onions, coriander in a crispy tortilla, served with a rich consomme to dip into. Best enjoyed with a frozen marg.
32 Birkenhead Ave, brokeboytaco.com
After 11 years in its original home, Mulan recently moved up the road into a light, airy space brought to life by architects Tom and Anna Webster of WHA. Owners James and Carol Balakrishnan keep regulars happy with the original Malaysian and Thai dinner menu, while a new breakfast offering mixes hearty Kiwi cafe classics with a few Southeast Asian numbers such as nasi lemak. Everything is made from scratch, including spice pastes, drawing on family recipes from James and Carol’s upbringing in Penang. A nice surprise is that the counter stocks buffalo and Jersey cow’s milk and cheeses from Mangawhai Corner Paddock; the milk is also used in the coffee, for which the beans come from local roastery Be Specialty. Coming soon: a cosy, speakeasy-style whisky and snack bar opening out back this winter, which will be licensed past midnight – a game-changer in the neighbourhood.
10 Birkenhead Ave, mulan.co.nz
Ros Ros in Birkenhead is the sister restaurant of Koo Koo in Mt Eden.
Ros Ros
Smoky aromas from the wood-fired grill act as a calling card for this mainstreet eatery, where Korean flavours get a modern spin. Ros Ros is the sister restaurant of wildly popular Koo Koo in Mt Eden and shares its knack of crafting wonderfully rich dishes, balanced with bright pops of freshness. Don’t miss the charred prawn cream udon.
12 Birkenhead Ave, rosros.co.nz
Birkenhead Brewing Co.
This friendly freehouse offers 10 tap beers that rotate regularly, plus plenty more by bottle and can. The leafy, sunken front courtyard is a great place to park up for an afternoon. On Monday to Friday lunchtimes, you can score a burger and skin-on fries with any tap beer (or wine or soft drink) for a tidy $25.
17 Birkenhead Ave, bbc.kiwi
Clapham’s is an elegantly cosy bistro and bar in Birkenhead. Photo / Anna King Shahab
Clapham’s
Newly opened in the heritage building that previously housed Mulan and, a century before that, the first general store in the area, Clapham’s is an elegantly cosy bistro and bar with exposed brick walls and wood panelling painted in rich hues. Its impressively wide menu hits lighter notes like tuna crudo with rocket, capers and lime, as well as hearty numbers such as picanha steak with chimichurri, and crumbed chicken with kimchi butter and potato puree. But for me, it’ll be the Scotch egg with pickle and gravy, thank you. The drinks list offers a particularly good lineup of gins.
243 Hinemoa St, claphams.co.nz
Lok Green
At this upmarket Korean barbecue restaurant, you can cook at your table with individual or share sets of scotch fillet, kalbi (marinated beef ribs), and crumbed beef cutlet, as well as ordering from the a la carte menu. The raw seafood platter makes an impressive starter, and dishes such as spicy soft tofu stew warm the cockles wonderfully. Ask for a table with a view: the restaurant connects to Kaimataara ō Wai Manawa, a viewing platform overlooking Le Roys Bush and the Waitematā Harbour across to the city and gulf islands.
39 Birkenhead Ave, instagram.com/lok.korea
Buy fresh fish, or takeaway fish and chips, from Highbury Fisheries in Birkenhead. Photo / Anna King Shahab
Highbury Fisheries
You can probably count on one hand the number of suburban Auckland high streets that still feature a fishmonger. This one sells a selection of fresh and smoked fish, displayed in the window, as well as cooking up fish and chips.
3 Mokoia Rd, highburyfisheries.tuckerfox.co.nz
China Hong Kong Cuisine Restaurant
This no-nonsense joint sorts all your Cantonese cravings, from roast and barbecue meats to congee, fried rice and noodles and whole fish dishes. It is also one of the rare Auckland spots that offers a full Peking duck set, for which you must book ahead.
64 Mokoia Rd, hongkongchinesecuisine.co.nz
Yummy Korean
This small ma-and-pa restaurant has been trucking along for more than two decades; dining there feels a little like being invited into the home of accomplished Korean cooks. Colourfully topped rice cooked in a hot stone bowl (bibimbap), steaming bowls of kimchi jigae (kimchi stew), and sizzling plates of squid, pork, or beef set the mood to comfort plus.
Ala Turča
Colourful mezze (the pink beetroot dip is dreamy) meet succulent grilled meats and salads at this trusty Turkish corner cafe.
2 Mokoia Rd, Birkenhead, instagram.com/_ala_turca_
Casual Foodie
Nip down this industrial lane off the main street to explore the options at Casual Foodie, which cooks up a plethora of mains, sides and desserts to keep handy in the freezer, as well as baking, sauces, preserves and more. Don a mucky apron and pass these off as homemade when you have guests, they’ll be none the wiser.
23 Enterprise Lane, casualfoodie.co.nz
Husband-and-wife team Jordan and Sarah Macdonald who own and operate Duo, Osteria Uno, Bon Pinard and Hinemoa St Cellar in Birkenhead. Photo / Babiche Martens
Duo
Jordan and Sarah Macdonald met while working in the kitchen at Al Brown’s Depot, and after a number of years and a few kids together have established themselves as the hosts with the most of Hinemoa, operating four premises – – Duo, Osteria Uno, Bon Pinard and Hinemoa Cellars – on this charming street lined with heritage shops and villas. Duo, their debut, opens morning and night on certain days. At brunch, those keen on exploring beyond the bene-sphere will love dishes like raw fish or raw wagyu on toast, spicy ’nduja hash, or drowned eggs (scrambled egg swimming in umami broth). More classic egg dishes are still up for grabs if you need them, though. Duo deals include Neighbourhood Supper Club, offering three courses for $60, and an oyster happy hour.
138 Hinemoa St, duoeatery.co.nz
Mafaldine, beef cheek, shiitake, egg yolk from Osteria Uno. Photo / Babiche Martens
Osteria Uno
Six choices of freshly made pasta, a selection of small dishes, sides and desserts make up the menu of this lively bistro. The kitchen has a knack for showcasing seasonal produce in interesting ways, and there are some delightful Italian-inspired cocktails to win you over. Save your pennies and rock up on a Tuesday for $20 rigatoni – current options are rigatoni alla norma, pork and sausage, or prawn and watercress.
140 Hinemoa St, osteriauno.co.nz
Wine bar Bon Pinard in Birkenhead. Photo / Anna King Shahab
Bon Pinard
The wine bar of the bunch a few doors down, petite Bon Pinard acts as the nicest of holding pens if you need to wait for a table at Duo or Uno, but is also well worth visiting on its own. Its short menu consists of French-inspired nibbles, smaller bites and larger dishes such as pork schnitzel or confit duck leg. Cheese alert: save room for the seriously seductive Delice de Borgougne. The wine list is ever-changing, always interesting and staff really know their stuff, making this a great place to sip on something new to you.
134a Hinemoa St, bonpinard.co.nz
Hinemoa St Cellar
More recently the Macdonalds opened an indie bottle shop next door to the bistros. The range, from all around the world, is small enough not to be overwhelming, but varied enough to keep things exciting. A wine club subscription is a great way to explore, offering a monthly half-dozen or dozen selection of the team’s favourites at a reduced price.
142a Hinemoa St, hinemoacellar.co.nz
Coffee General
This stalwart on Hinemoa takes making coffee seriously, but keeps the atmosphere friendly and relaxing. Granola and bagels sort hanger pangs.
100 Hinemoa St, instagram.com/coffeegeneral
Agnes in Birkenhead. Photo / Babiche Martens
Agnes
Popular chef Alfie Ingham has teamed up again with stalwart hospo operators Fran and Aaron Mazza-Carter from Ada to revive a character-filled space in the heart of Birkenhead Point. In situ in what was the original Hellaby’s butcher’s are the original floor-to-ceiling tiling, marble display slab once laden with fresh cuts (now a lovely window counter) and restored panelled wood shop counter. Ingham applies his signature style – unpretentious dishes bursting with bold flavours – to a menu tracking from cafe day to bistro evening. Check the board for specials, which often hit nostalgic notes – Ingham had a Lancashire hot pot on the boil when I called in for a chat.
98 Hinemoa St, agnes.co.nz
Cheese on Toast
Quite simply the best selection of toasties in town (alongside sister branches in Mt Eden and Newmarket). The shop’s own sourdough is perfectly designed to be the vehicle for fillings classic and contemporary.
96 Hinemoa St, cheeseontoast.nz
The team from Master & Margherita, which has two locations – Grey Lynn and Birkenhead. Photo / Anna King Shahab
Master & Margherita Pizza Bar
Roman-style pizza with slow-fermented bases, generously loaded with toppings, are fired to perfection on Vesuvian stone over mānuka wood and served up in the cosy surrounds of a quaint brick cottage with courtyard.
6 Rugby Rd, mmpizzabar.co.nz
The beef Wellington, a signature dish at Moxie, a bistro in Birkenhead.
Moxie
Those who’ve enjoyed the beef Wellington at Moxie have not only lived to tell the tale, but to tell it with hearts in their eyes: the dish has become a signature at this friendly bistro in a colourfully decorated old villa. The showpiece dish comes with truffled Agria foam, pumpkin seed and parsley pesto and Madeira jus, is best pre-ordered and serves two to four. Moxie also caters well for families with young children; the kids get their own menu. Its monthly “vintage high tea” with finger sandwiches, scones and petit fours is very popular.
82 Hinemoa St, moxierestaurant.co.nz
All About in Birkenhead specialises in Korean snacks, like these steamed buns.
All About
This cute, family-run cafe specialises in Korean snacks, including mandu (dumplings), kimbap (Korea’s version of sushi), steamed buns and spicy fried chicken. Save room for something sweet, such as kkwabaegi (deep fried donut twists) and SoBoRo, a combination of donut and cookie housing fillings like lemon curd, red bean and salted caramel. And keep an eye out for creme brulee kūmara, fresh from the oven.
47 Birkenhead Ave, instagram.com/allabout_ssal
A cherry choux from OTT in Birkenhead. Photo / Anna King Shahab
OTT
Founded by a German baker in 2012, OTT excels in European breads and pastries, with room to dine in. In a world where most food items are shrinking while the price tag expands, OTT is a breath of fresh, flour-dusted air: everything they make appears oversized – baguettes the size of an All Black’s arm; towering cream and cherry choux and mille feuille and plate-sized croissants, all baked fresh daily. Kokako coffee is the perfect accompaniment.
2 Birkenhead Ave, ottpatisserie.co.nz
More on food and drink
From Michelin moves to wintry warmers.