We’re staying at the Renaissance Esmerelda Resort & Spa (a Marriott hotel) in Greater Palm Springs. And boy, are these guys in for a shock when we take them camping at Christmas.
The grand staircase leads up to Seven Olive Modern gastropub. Photo / Anna Sarjeant
Location
The hotel is located in Indian Wells. You’re not quite in Palm Springs (a 24km drive away), but this is likely the Palm Springs you envisage: luxury estates and lush green golf courses; cloud-tickling palm trees and all the aesthetics of a Paul Fuentes art print.
The view from the balcony: golf greens, palms and the San Jacinto mountains. Photo / Anna Sarjeant
Perfect for
With 560 guest rooms, the Renaissance Esmeralda seems to accommodate everyone.
And for parents of young children, if you’re worried high-end is too swish for excitable, sticky-fingered sprogs, to the contrary, they love kids here. The outdoor swimming pool has its own man-made beach, and Camp Esmeralda features dozens of activities, craft workshops and games.
First impressions
The main lobby area of the hotel is staggering: the American flag alone spans four floors and the spiral staircase is fit for a Disney Princess.
The American flag spans four floors of the staggering main lobby. Photo / Anna Sarjeant
The room
Nothing can quite prepare you for (two) rooms of this size. The decor is mellow, albeit with pops of midcentury style and loud prints that pay homage to Palm Springs’ classic aesthetic.
The separate lounge area is so expansive, I usher the boys off for a swim, simply so I can enjoy it to myself. Over the coming days, I get hooked on morning TV on two large screen televisions, and flicking through a coffee table book titled Palm Springs Life while taking coffee on the balcony. The coffee machine is a Keurig, which delivers a pleasant drip variant.
The sprawling lounge area is a suite unto itself. Photo / Anna Sarjeant
Then there’s the view. The view. The view. It’s indistinguishable between what I’m ogling in Palm Springs Life. Forgive me, but it’s iconic. Well and truly. From the cloudless sky to the San Jacinto mountain range, it’s picture-perfect. Some days, its brilliance makes me question its authenticity.
Bathroom
Two vanities allow me to push the family clobber to one side and preserve my own sanctuary on the other side. The shower is huge, allowing for easy hose-offs when wet swimmers return from the pool.
The adjoining toilet has walls adorned with black-and-white photos from Palm Springs’ heyday. I find myself spending an inordinate amount of time enjoying them. There’s peace and quiet to be found in the lavatory, too.
Palm Springs’ golden era lines the bathroom walls. Photo / Anna Sarjeant
Facilities
There are three pools in total, including an adults-only spa pool, but it’s hard to resist the pull of the main resort pool, complete with sun loungers, pool bar and about 150 bare-chested firemen.
The latter is not a year-round hotel perk, but plan your visit for the annual Emergency Service Convention and you too can forgo the spa and plan a fake drowning.
I didn’t try the morning outdoor yoga class, nor the gym, but the latter has been newly refreshed and there’s free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel.
Food and drink
The Place is the central bar and gathering spot in the main lobby, but it was sprawling with firemen and I had to stay focused for this review.
My family and I dined at the newly opened Seven Olive Modern gastropub, an elegant yet relaxed (read as: children welcome) venue where we gorged on upscale burgers and fresh salmon. The kids were given crayons for drawing (or eating, if you’re a 1-year-old and feel inclined).
Cafe Biscotti was our go-to for a quick breakfast before a full day of sightseeing, whereas Cava is the hotel’s sit-down venue for plates of syrupy, strawberry waffles and bottomless coffee.
Light bites can also be ordered from the H2O Pool Bar and to the right of The Place, you’ll find an intimate nook called Glo Sushi.
In the neighbourhood
It’s advisable to rent a car so you can drive to nearby highlights such as the Living Desert Zoo and Gardens, Palm Springs Aerial Tramway and The Children’s Discovery Museum of the Desert. A personal favourite was Palm Canyon Drive – 40 minutes from the hotel – and home to a cluster of boutique stores, cool cafes and Marilyn Monroe statues.
A Marilyn Monroe statue on Palm Canyon Drive, a Palm Springs staple. Photo / Anna Sarjeant
The best bit
Enjoying every aspect of multi-star luxury, without feeling sheepish about bringing the kids, was refreshing. From ping pong tables to pool inflatables, and genuine warmth from staff and guests alike, children are welcome and no one bats an eyelid (or rolls an eye).
I won’t lie, bumping into an intoxicated fireman while holding my 1-year-old fortified my love for vociferous Americans. He recognised us from dinner, and while his wife commented on my son’s cuteness, the husband retorted:
“This f***er – he eats green crayons!”
Room for improvement
It’s hard to find fault with luxury resorts – as it should be. Perfection is what you’re paying for. My only qualm was an America-wide grumble: disposable coffee cups individually wrapped in plastic bags. Not limited to this hotel, unfortunately.
Sustainability
Aside from the above observation, the hotel had recycling bins in both living areas, linen changed every three days and refillable toiletry bottles (Kevin Murphy) in the bathroom. Towels are only washed if you don’t hang them up … Sorry, if Mum doesn’t hang them up.
Accessibility
Facilities include accessible rooms with roll-in showers, elevators and stair-free pathways between entrances and common areas.
Price
An executive suite ranges from US$1300-1500 per night.
Base rates start from US$237-$300 per night.
Contact
For more information, visit: marriott.com/en-us/hotels/pspsr-renaissance-esmeralda-resort-and-spa-indian-wells or call +1 760-773-4444.