Weekend wine guide: Vintners’ bad luck is spreading through our top wine regions

Michael Cooper

Wine writer·New Zealand Listener·

30 Jul, 2026 06:04 PM3 mins to read

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There’s widespread concern about cancelled grape growing contracts and many vineyard blocks left unpicked, mothballed, or being uprooted. Photo / Getty Images

The first white and rosé wines from the 2026 harvest are now trickling on to the shelves. In terms of quality, what can we expect from Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay and Central Otago ‒ the three most heavily planted wine regions?

The new season’s offerings are arriving during exceptionally tough
times in the industry, with widespread concern about cancelled grape growing contracts and many vineyard blocks left unpicked, mothballed, or being uprooted as a result of falling domestic demand for our wines. Nearly 25% of North Canterbury’s vines were reportedly unharvested. In May, the giant Indevin group, owner of Villa Maria, informed Gisborne grapegrowers of its decision to exit the region, in the wake of “declining demand for Gisborne fruit”.

At the end of a warmer, slightly wetter season than usual, Marlborough growers were enthusiastic about the prospects for fine wine. Following a warm spring and early summer, the vines flowered early, but from late December onwards, the weather cooled. “Summer finally arrived in late February with warm days continuing through March,” reported the regional body, Wine Marlborough,

Winemaker Jules Taylor observed: “Seasons that begin fast but finish slow give the vines a long growing season to develop intense flavours in their grapes, producing characterful wines with genuine depth.” She singled out her 2026 pinot gris and chardonnay as “particularly promising”.

In Hawke’s Bay, a warm, dry spring and early summer accelerated ripening. Tony Bish, who has worked in the industry for 45 years, harvested his first chardonnay grapes on February 17, earlier than ever before. “Climate change cannot be ignored,” Bish says. “This year it’s verging on ridiculous how early it is.”

Patrick Materman, Indevin’s chief winemaker, says the highlight of the Hawke’s Bay vintage was “the red varietals, with merlot and cabernet sauvignon displaying deep colour [and] complex, ripe flavours”. Steve Smith, of AONZ Fine Wine Estates (Smith & Sheth), expects the Hawke’s Bay heat to be reflected in “softly textured” wines.

In contrast, Central Otago growers experienced a cool, late season. After a frosty start to spring in some districts, Felton Road reported, “The Central Otago summer left us with a feeling of something lacking – the sun!”

Fortunately, warm days and cool nights in autumn helped with ripening. Amisfield says the grapes’ extended “hang time” resulted in “good depth of flavour and savoury elegance in our pinot …” However, Grasshopper Rock sounded a cautionary note, advising wine lovers to expect “meaningful sub-regional variation”.

Wine of the week

Hunter’s Marlborough Pinot Noir 2024

★★★★½

This top-value red was grown in the Southern Valleys, hand-picked and aged for a year in French oak barrels. Mouthfilling, sweet-fruited, savoury and supple, it has concentrated cherry, plum and spice flavours, showing very good complexity and harmony. (13.5% alc/vol) $28-$33

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