From falafel to hand-pulled noodles, these dishes tell Wellington’s story.
Wellington’s food scene moves lightning-quick, yet the Courtenay Place dining precinct is one that typifies endurance. From a handful of neighbouring streets, a few establishments have outlasted economic downturns, pandemic lockdowns and shifting tastes.
Given their proximity to one
another, a taste trail could be well in order. Here are 10 spots that have fed the capital over the decades; behind each is a family, often one that arrived from elsewhere to build something lasting, and a signature dish that offers insight into their longevity.
1. Phoenician Falafel
Phoenician Falafel has served its traditional falafel since the mid-1990s. Photo / Neat Places
The falafel wrap at Phoenician Falafel is exactly what it was when Tony and Yolanda Assaf opened their Kent Terrace shop in the mid-90s: crispy ground-chickpea fritters fried fresh to order, layered with lettuce, tomato, homemade pickles and generous tahini, all packed into a pita. No fusion, no extras. For their son Zahi, who now runs the kitchen, making this staple transports him back to family gatherings where they’d turn out more than a hundred falafels in a single session. The Assafs’ falafel hasn’t changed because their method hasn’t changed. They proudly keep it as traditional as possible and have the 20-year regulars to prove it.
2. J&M Fastfoods
J&M Fastfoods has been serving its chicken fried rice since 2006. Photo / Neat Places
Pop over to Courtenay Place and look out for the giant Coca-Cola bottle (it shouldn’t be too hard to spot). Beneath this landmark is where Jenny Eir and her family have been cooking chicken fried rice the same way since 2006. Egg, mixed vegetables, chicken, rice, all seasoned with salt, sugar and soy sauce, tossed in a wok at precisely the right heat and served with a smile every time. Arriving as Cambodian refugees, this dish echoes the family’s heritage and Jenny’s childhood: rice was what she ate when she was small. J&M Fastfoods’ philosophy is built on the promise of the same quality, same smile, every time.
21 Courtenay Place, Te Aro.
3. KC Cafe & Takeaway
KC Cafe began with 12 dishes and now offers more than 160. Photo / Neat Places
KC Cafe & Takeaway started with 12 dishes. Twenty-six years later, the menu covers an entire wall: 160 options and counting, but if you want a surefire hit, order the chow kueh teow. The noodles in this dish are made fresh in-house every day. It’s quintessential Hong Kong-style cha chaan teng: fast, honest, good value.
4. Kazu Yakitori & Sake Bar
Kazu serves yakitori grilled over charcoal in the historic Stewarts Building. Photo / Neat Places
A short walk further along Courtenay Place and you’ll find the historic Stewarts Building. Head up the stairs to the second floor and be met with a chorus of greetings and the smoky aroma of a charcoal grill in full view. Kazu Yakitori & Sake Bar’s miso sauce yakitori is best experienced from its well-worn wooden stools, where you can watch expert chefs at work. They glaze beef and chicken with a sweet-savoury blend of two miso varieties, then top with green onion and chilli. It’s also best experienced paired with one of the many sake options Kazu offers. After all, it’s izakaya, traditional Japanese pub culture, at its most authentic.
5. FJ Noodles & DumplingsFJ makes its hand-pulled lamian fresh using a traditional Northern Chinese technique. Photo / Neat Places
Keep heading west, and you’ll stumble upon an unassuming establishment, the kind that reminds you sometimes the most gratifying meals are found at the most modest tables. Behind the red curtain at FJ Noodles & Dumplings, hand-pulled lamian is stretched and folded mid-air before being plunged into boiling water, a centuries-old technique performed daily in Northern China, and, as it happens, on Courtenay Place. The spicy fried mixed beef noodle here is a classic choice and a crowd favourite: freshly boiled noodles topped with chopped garlic, chilli flakes, spring onion and vegetables, finished with a sizzling drizzle of hot oil.In a strip crowded with options, FJ has built a reputation, aside from its bountiful buffet offerings, on noodles made fresh, simple and delicious.
45 Courtenay Place, Te Aro.
6. Dragonfly
Dragonfly has served its seared sesame tuna for more than 13 years. Photo / Neat Places
Another must-taste on Courtenay Place is at the tranquil Dragonfly, a hidden, colourful oasis from the busyness of Wellington Central. Its seared sesame tuna has been on the menu almost as long as the restaurant has been open, more than 13 years. For co-owner Brent Wong, it encapsulates what it does best: sweet, sour, salt and spice balanced to perfection, with a cucumber and coconut lemongrass gel to temper the richness. It was one of the first dishes it developed, with the rest of the menu then built around it, and traces back to what Brent and his sister Tania Siladi’s father would cook at home. The sibling team grew up in a kitchen of traditional dishes, many of which they’ve subtly modernised, making them more inviting for contemporary palates, without compromising their origins.
7. Nicolini’s
Nicolini’s has been family-run since 1997. Photo / Neat Places
Now make your way to Blair St for a slice of Naples. At Nicolini’s, the fettuccine puttanesca arrives as red as the band of il Tricolore. La Molisana pasta is tossed through a sauce of olive oil, garlic, black olives, white wine, capers, oregano, anchovies and the house Napoli sauce that’s been reduced for six hours. A scatter of parsley finishes it. For Antonio, whose family has run the trattoria since 1997, food and culture are romance, and the hope is that diners fall for this dish and return time and time again. Five generations of recipes inform every plate at Nicolini’s, and the invitation has remained unchanged for nearly 30 years: eat like it’s your last supper.
8. Monsoon Poon
Monsoon Poon is a Blair St favourite. Photo / Neat Places
The shaking beef at Monsoon Poon came via San Francisco, a recipe shared by chef Charles Phan of the Slanted Door, adapted for Wellington and served here for a quarter century. Chunks of beef fillet marinated in soy and lime, tossed in a wok at high heat with red onion, land on a peppery rocket bed. Lime dipping sauce is served alongside. It’s simple, fresh, healthy and designed to be approachable for the big groups that fill this maximalist Blair St favourite. The dish has outlasted every iteration of the street around it, from restaurant row to party precinct to today’s well-rounded mix.
9. Dragons
Dragons’ teriyaki unagi prawn dumplings use squid ink and bean-dyed wrappers. Photo / Neat Places
Sunday yum cha at Dragons seats 200, and most weekends it needs to. Head over to this beloved Tory St restaurant for its teriyaki unagi prawn dumplings: a recent weekend menu addition that’s become a favourite. Squid ink and bean dye the dumpling skins a deep black before they’re stuffed with prawn mince and smoky eel. A finishing teriyaki sauce balances the salt and sweetness. Intricate and expertly made, these dumplings are notable for their thin wrappers, uniform size, and complex fold around a generous filling. It’s the kind of dish that captures Dragons’ ethos: staying true to roots while having fun.
10. Apache
Apache recently moved to Tory St after a decade on Wakefield St. Photo / Neat Places
After a decade on Wakefield St, Apache has settled into its Tory St home with the same energy as before: bold, social, unapologetically fun. Its shaking beef takes a classic and pushes it somewhere unexpected: beef fillet with blistered bell peppers and red onion in the wok, hit with high flame, then dressed in a signature salted caramel sauce made from burnt sugar and fish sauce. A confident handling of punchy flavours and a self-professed willingness to try seemingly strange combinations that shouldn’t work but do.
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