This Dubai Watch Week, Gerald Charles reveals one of the fair’s most anticipated novelties: the Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon ‘Tiger’s Eye’. Limited to just three pieces, this creation is, in the words of CEO Federico Ziviani, “a dialogue between artistic daring and uncompromising Swiss watchmaking.” It is, he told Revolution in an exclusive interview, a reaffirmation of their philosophy that design and mechanics are indivisible ― and a testament to 25 years of its success story.

 

Founded in 2000 by Gérald Charles Genta, the Maison carries the last signature of one of watchmaking’s greatest designers. In 2003, Mr. Genta entrusted the company to the Ziviani family, close personal friends, and remained involved until his death in 2011. Today, under Federico Ziviani, the brand marks a quarter century as it continues to mine Mr. Genta’s archives, an extensive collection of unpublished designs, interpreting them for a new generation.

 

The Maestro 9.0 makes its debut as the second chapter of a collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi. Earlier, in September, the partnership produced the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Tiger’s Eye, a 20-piece limited edition that drew the attention of collectors. Together, these releases celebrate two milestones: the 75th anniversary of Seddiqi and the 25th anniversary of Gerald Charles. For Mr. Ziviani, the collaboration is “not only about exclusivity, but about honouring a friendship with pieces that resonate with this market.”

 

Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon Tiger’s Eye (right) & Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Tiger’s Eye

Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon Tiger’s Eye (right) & Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Tiger’s Eye

 

The tourbillon of the Maestro 9.0 sits at six o’clock; it is set within a custom titanium cage shaped into the GC monogram, an affirmation of technical language. A 22K rose gold oscillating mass, decorated with the Gerald Charles honeycomb pattern, powers the movement. The watch has a stop-seconds mechanism, an element of precision more often found in tool watches than haute horlogerie. The dial is cut from Tiger’s eye quartz.

 

Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon Tiger’s Eye

The tourbillon can located at the six o’clock

 

Mr. Ziviani describes the aesthetic as “minimal baroque”; the fluid, Maestro case rooted in Gerald Genta’s original sketches juxtaposed with a dial stripped of indices, allowing the stone’s shifting golden light to dominate. While the Maestro 9.0 is reserved for only three collectors, its slim at 9mm sibling – the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin – was the opening act unveiled in September. It is limited to a slightly more attainable 20 pieces. Powered by a 3.7mm slim automatic movement of 189 components, the super-sleek watch epitomises wearability. For Mr. Ziviani, the 2.0 was about “achieving harmony between case, strap, and dial,” a meticulous collaboration with Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, CEO of Ahmed Seddiqi.

 

The ‘Colormix’ finishing of the case, a proprietary bronzebrown treatment applied externally for the first time, and the sand-toned vulcanised rubber strap also nod to the UAE’s desert landscapes. The Tiger’s Eye editions honour the Seddiqi family, whose role in shaping Dubai Watch Week has elevated the city into one of horology’s most dynamic stages.

 

Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Tiger’s Eye

The dial stripped of indices, allowing the stone’s shifting golden light to dominate

 

“The limited edition was conceived to resonate with local clientele, a gesture that reflects the brand’s respect for the market. At the same time, we are consolidating our reputation among collectors, who recognize Gerald Charles as a Maison that blends artistic audacity with Swiss craftsmanship.”

 

The Masterlink Gem Set

Alongside the Maestro novelties, Gerald Charles adds another highlight – the Masterlink Gem Set, a luxurious evolution of the brand’s asymmetric integrated-bracelet design. Inspired by Mr. Genta’s 2007 Sarawak – a unique gem-set asymmetric watch created for the Royal Family of Sarawak — the Masterlink Gem Set continues the legacy of “artistic creativity and technical mastery.” Available in three colourways (blue sapphire, red sapphire, and green tsavorite), each limited to ten pieces, it introduces gemsetting to the Masterlink line for the first time. The 38mm stainless-steel case features a white gold bezel invisibly set with 60 baguette-cut stones, each custom-cut to follow the asymmetrical geometry of the case. The silver dial, with its two-level construction and vertical relief motif, echoes Italian pinstriped tailoring — one of Mr. Ziviani’s recurring design inspirations. Inside beats an automatic extra-thin micro-rotor calibre, visible through the sapphire caseback, delivering a 50-hour power reserve.

 

Masterllink Gem Set (Blue Sapphire)

The white gold bezel invisibly set with 60 baguette-cut stones, each custom-cut to follow the asymmetrical geometry of the case

 

Masterllink Gem Set (Red Sapphire)

Available in three colourways and each limited to ten pieces

 

Masterllink Gem Set (Green Tsavorite)

The silver dial, with its two-level construction and vertical relief motif, echoes Italian pinstriped tailoring

 

Dubai Watch Week: A Stage for Independents

For Mr. Ziviani, Dubai Watch Week “represents an opportunity to affirm our identity and ambition.” This year the brand hosts its first stand-alone booth, an expansive 159 square metres – making Gerald Charles the only emerging independent to be granted such space. “We will host masterclasses dedicated to Métiers d’Art, shining a spotlight on our savoir-faire. We also closed the museum in our Geneva Atelier to bring pieces usually kept in Switzerland to Dubai, a chance for visitors to experience the Maison’s heritage firsthand.”

 

For Mr. Ziviani, this phase is about bridging eras and aligning with the brand’s audience in a way that is relevant. “Our growth reflects more than commercial success; it embodies cultural positioning within independent watchmaking,” he says.

 

As Dubai Watch Week unfolds, the Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon will inevitably draw the spotlight, with its titanium-framed tourbillon and luminous dial. In a watchmaking ecosystem where independent voices are increasingly shaping the landscape, Gerald Charles stands as proof that continuity and reinvention are complementary forces. “Ultimately,” concludes Mr. Ziviani, “Gerald Charles is not only a watchmaker, but a custodian of an artistic vision. In watchmaking, our place is defined by bold creativity, independence, and authenticity. We aspire to inspire collectors through a narrative that bridges heritage and modern performance, combining timeless design with the highest technical standards.”

 

Tech Specs: Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin – Tiger’s Eye

 

Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Tiger’s Eye Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Tiger’s Eye

Movement: Swiss Manufacture 2.0 calibre; 50-hours power reserve.
Functions: Central hour, minute and seconds hands
Case: Stainless Steel, brown ‘Colormix’ finishing; 39 x 41 mm
Dial : Tiger’s Eye. Baton shaped hands with white SuperLumiNova
Strap: Sand vulcanised rubber; polished Colormix stainless steel pin buckle
Limited Edition: 20 pieces

 

Tech Specs: Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon – Tiger’s Eye

 

Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon Tiger’s Eye Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon Tiger’s Eye

Movement: Swiss Manufacture 9.0 calibre, 50 hours power reserve, water resistant 100m
Case: Stainless steel, brown ‘Colormix’ finishing; 39 x 41 mm
Functions: Central hour and minute hands, seconds on the Tourbillon at 6H, stop seconds system
Finishing: Bridges finely decorated with colimaçon, Côtes de Genève and perlage finishes
Dial: Tiger’s Eye; baton shaped hands with white SuperLumiNova
Strap: Sand vulcanised rubber; polished Colormix stainless steel pin buckle
Limited Edition: Three pieces only

 

Tech Specs: Masterllink Gem Set

 

Masterllink Gem Set (Blue Sapphire) Masterllink Gem Set (Blue Sapphire) Masterllink Gem Set (Red Sapphire) Masterllink Gem Set (Red Sapphire) Masterllink Gem Set (Green Tsavorite) Masterllink Gem Set (Green Tsavorite)

Movement: Automatic, extra-thin micro-rotor, 50-hour power reserve; water resistance: 100m
Case: 38mm stainless steel, 7.9mm thickness
Dial: Silver, double-layered with vertical relief and applied sapphire or tsavorite indexes
Bezel: White gold with 60 baguette-cut sapphires or tsavorites
Bracelet: Integrated steel with concealed clasp
Limited Edition: 10 pieces per colour