Chip-shop chips are hard to equal – but it can be done. Photo / 123RF
The fix
1. Pick the right potato
Not all spuds are created equal. Floury varieties such as Agria or Ilam Hardy have the low moisture and high starch needed for that fluffy interior and crisp crust. Waxy potatoes – great for salads – will never crisp properly no matter how long you cook them.
2. Cut and soak
Uniform thickness is essential for even cooking, around 1cm thick for a classic chip. Once cut, soak them in cold water for 20–30 minutes (longer if you have time). This removes surface starch, which is what makes chips gluey instead of crisp. Drain, then pat completely dry – water and hot oil are not friends.
3. Go low, then high (for deep-frying)
The secret to takeaway-quality chips is double cooking: first low, then high. Fill a deep, heavy-based pan or benchtop fryer no more than halfway with oil. Choose a high-oleic oil such as canola, sunflower or rice bran – they have a high smoke point and stay stable at heat, unlike cheaper blended vegetable oils that can oxidise and develop off-flavours.
Heat gently to around 140–150C for the first cook. Add a small handful of chips at a time and fry for 4–5 minutes until they’re soft, pale and bend easily but don’t break. Remove with tongs or a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels while the rest cook.
Once all the chips are blanched, raise the temperature to 180–190C for the second cook. Fry the cooled chips in batches for 2–3 minutes, just until golden and crisp. If you don’t have a thermometer, dip the end of a wooden spoon in the oil — steady bubbles mean it’s ready, vigorous bubbling means too hot.
4. Dry before oiling (for oven chips)
This is the step most people skip, and it’s why home chips turn limp. After soaking or parboiling, drain and dry the potatoes completely – moisture turns to steam in the oven and ruins crispness. Spread the chips on a clean tea towel, pat thoroughly and let them air-dry for a few minutes before adding oil.
Oven fries can get very close to chippie perfection.
5. The oven method
For oven chips, the principle is the same: a gentle cook first, then high heat to finish. Parboil cut potatoes for 4–5 minutes until just tender, drain well, dry completely, then toss lightly in oil – about a tablespoon per tray. Choose a high-heat oil such as rice bran, canola or light olive; extra virgin burns too easily. Bake at 190C for 20–25 minutes, turning once, then increase to 220C (or fan grill) for the final 10 minutes to brown and crisp.
6. Don’t overcrowd
Whether you’re using an oven or oil, chips need breathing space. Too many on a tray or in a pan traps steam, turning the batch soggy. Cook in two lots if you must – it’s worth it. And if baking, preheat your tray before adding the chips so the underside starts crisping immediately.
7. Season while hot
Salt sticks best to heat and oil, so season as soon as they come out. Fine salt gives an even coat; flaky sea salt adds crunch. Add any herbs or spices right at the end – smoked paprika, garlic powder or rosemary work well – otherwise they’ll burn.
Extra tips
If you’ve joined the air fryer crowd, good news: it’s almost foolproof for chips. The circulating heat mimics the second “high” cook perfectly, giving that even, golden crunch with minimal oil. Toss the chips halfway and avoid stacking them too high.
And if you secretly prefer the softer-middle chips – the ones that soak up vinegar and sit squashed in the middle of a fish and chip bundle – you’re not alone. Many Kiwis argue over whether the perfect chip should shatter or sigh.
For that soft, nostalgic texture, simply cook them as usual, then cover loosely with baking paper or foil for a few minutes before serving. The trapped steam softens the crust slightly — just like the ones hiding in the middle of the packet.
To re-crisp leftover chips, heat them in a single layer in a hot oven or air fryer for a few minutes – never microwave them unless you enjoy soggy defeat.
Making your own ‘maty sauce is the cherry on top when it comes to condiments for chips. Photo / Babiche Martens
Dip it
If all else fails
You can still fake it. Cut a few corners with frozen oven chips, but treat them properly: cook straight from frozen on a preheated tray, give them space, and finish under a hot grill. They’ll never quite match the real thing, but they’ll get close enough to keep everyone quiet at the dinner table.
Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in food and travel publishing for nearly 20 years. From managing your kitchen to cutting costs, she’s shared some helpful advice recently, including how to prep your barbecue for summer grilling, gourmet hacks for elevating budget ingredients and what toppings to choose for different crackers.