Collabs between horology and fashion often walk a thin red line — they can end up as inflated hype or worse, go terribly wrong. But on the positive, there are a small handful that have nailed it and the good news is: we are seeing a couple of them this week.
First off the grid is TAG Heuer’s partnership with the godfather of streetwear, Hiroshi Fujiwara. The latest TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment limited edition hits the mark once again, continuing the winning streak set by its predecessors: 2018’s Carrera Heuer 02 by Fragment and 2020’s Caliber Heuer 02 Automatic Chronograph, both limited editions that sold out.
Hiroshi Fujiwara
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment Limited Edition
This latest drop is similarly limited to just 500 numbered pieces, and like the two earlier collabs, it is unequivocally sleek and cool. It returns to the most emblematic TAG Heuer form of all, the Carrera chronograph originally created in 1963 by Jack Heuer for racing drivers, here once again channeled through the lens of Fujiwara via his brand fragment. Indeed, Fujiwara is an arbiter of cool, variously DJ and musician, fashion designer and tastemaker, with a string of wildly successful collaborations from Levis to Louis Vuitton.
But his partnership with Tag Heuer strikes a distinctly different, far more intimate chord. Above and beyond merely injecting street cred, Fujiwara is a watch lover and a watch collector, which brings a distinct sensitivity to the decisions made — for this watch as for his earlier collabs. We loved the retro styling inspired by the vintage ref. 2447 NT in the 2018 release, paired with restraint and understated attention to detail. There was no fuss, no fireworks; it was, really, a handsome faithful tribute to the original with very discreet tweaks on the original. The second collab showcased Fujiwara’s minimalist approach that proved less is indeed more. Here, the dial is at once stripped of embellishments, and emboldened with striking red accents.
TAG Heuer Carrera x Fragment Fujiwara, 2020 
TAG Heuer Carrera x Fragment Fujiwara, 2018Reimagining TAG Heuer’s Glassbox Carrera
The third collab in the series turns the spotlight on TAG Heuer’s modern glassbox Carrera. Introduced in 2015 with the Carrera Calibre 18 Telemeter chronograph, the so-called glassbox design essentially comprises a domed sapphire crystal that references the classic plexiglass aesthetic of the 1960s Carrera. Bold and sculptural, it is the perfect surface for Fujiwara to work his magic while honoring the Carrera heritage.
Fujiwara’s approach to watch design is almost meditative. As he puts it, his role is to “listen to its structure” and make decisions that protect the design’s natural balance. “When I look at the TAG Heuer Carrera, I see shapes and stories ready to be designed and expressed,” he says. “Every detail has to earn its place. Nothing is added unless it has a reason to exist.”
Indeed, this latest collab bears the sleek minimalist aesthetics of earlier collabs. It is evident in its pared-back dial, in its 39mm steel case that stays true to classic Carrera proportions. But look closer and the black-and-white aesthetic is signature Fujiwara. Like velvet, the black opalin dial soaks up the light, while the white curved flange frames it neatly in juxtaposition. Silver-finished markings anchor the design alongside rhodium-plated chronograph hands and silver accents that keep things crisp and legible. Even the tachymeter gets the Fujiwara treatment in a softer grey. And then there are the Easter eggs: his signature Fragment lightning bolt tucked subtly onto the dial and hidden in the date disc at “1” and “11,” a clever detail that collectors and fans will appreciate.
The black opalin dial
The bracelet signals another tribute to classic TAG Heuer of yore. Here, the brand’s vintage seven-row beads-of-rice design, reintroduced earlier this year at Watches and Wonders for its Carrera chronograph glassbox models, echoes the chromatic contrast with black PVD central links.
Powering this edition is the in-house automatic Caliber TH20-00 with column wheel and vertical clutch. Running at 4 Hz, it offers a very respectable 80-hour power reserve with bidirectional winding. But the devil is in the detail. The oscillating weight comes in the shape of a shield, Fujiwara’s clever graphic rework of the TAG Heuer emblem. Fragment’s logo also appears directly on the sapphire crystal, strategically centred at the heart of the movement. An engraved Victory Wreath sits on the edge of the caseback, a subtle reference to Jack Heuer’s tradition of gifting gold watches to victorious drivers, as lucky charms in Formula 1’s golden age.
The verdict — minimalist yet expressive, modern yet rooted. For collectors who missed the 2018 and 2020 editions, consider this your third chance and perhaps the one that defines the trilogy.
Tech Specs: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Fragment Limited Edition
Movement: Self-winding caliber Caliber TH20-00; 80-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
Case: 39mm x 13.9mm; Stainless-steel with domed sapphire crystal; water-resistant to 100 meters
Dial: Black opalin dial with grey printed indexes with grey Super-LumiNova; rhodium-plated hands with white Super-LumiNova
Strap: Stainless steel with polished steel butterfly folding clasp and safety push buttons
Price: CHF 8,150
Availability: Limited edition of 500 numbered pieces