In his fortnightly foodie advice column, Viva’s resident dining-out editor shares where to take an 86-year-old for dinner, where to find the best Indonesian food in Auckland, and more.
Putting Michelin into context
Jesse, I don’t think you’ve told us what you think about the Michelin Guide coming to New
Zealand. Are you worried about your job? Maybe they’ll hire you!
For a while there my thoughts on Michelin changed every time someone shared an opinion on it. Yes! It is a waste of taxpayer dollars. Yes! It is a crucial way of attracting high value tourists. Yes! If London doesn’t have to pay for their Michelin inspectors neither should we. Yes! It will encourage excellence by giving local chefs an international benchmark.
But now my thoughts have settled in a bit and here is what I really think. The system is for overseas tourists, not for us – and $6 million to put a big neon sign above New Zealand telling rich, dim Americans where to go is probably value for money.
But the Michelin system will mean almost nothing locally; crucially, the judges look only at the food, not at the 10 other aspects of a restaurant that make it worth spending your money on. If I ask you about the best restaurant meal you’ve had in New Zealand, chances are you won’t be picturing what was on your plate – you’ll be thinking of the lighting and the mood and the waiter and the music and the dining room. A restaurant is all of these things and, even more significantly, its value depends on context – what has come before it, what it offers that other places don’t, why it is precisely the right place for precisely the right occasion.
Basically, I am saying that you need to be an Aucklander to really appreciate the best of Auckland. International guides are all very well, but I’d take the recommendation of my plumber over a Michelin inspector, any day of the week.
The beef sirloin on the menu at One Tree Grill. Photo / Babiche Martens
Family-friendly dining
Jesse, my father is visiting us in Mt Eden. He is 86 but enjoys good food and I’d like to take him out somewhere not too far away from home while he’s here. Do you have any suggestions?
Hi Richard, good to hear from you.
I think your father would really enjoy One Tree Grill. It didn’t quite make our recent Top 50 list but it’s a very good restaurant and less noisy than most places, so he won’t struggle to hear conversation. Tell him the steak is great.
I haven’t checked in on Pasta & Cuore since it changed ownership but that has always been very solid, and who doesn’t love pasta?
If you think he’s up for something more exciting, consider Cazador down the far end of Dominion Rd. It’s done a great job over the years of being all things to all people, and I’m sure your father will find plenty on the menu he’ll enjoy, while admiring the stuffed animal heads adorning the textured plaster walls.
Fluorescent lights, stools and accoutrements bring a brightness to Bali Nights. Photo / Babiche Martens
Hi Jesse, I used to eat a lot of Indonesian food when I lived in Amsterdam but it doesn’t seem to be as popular over here. Do you have any recommendations?
There are four places you might like to try out. I really love the food and energy at Bali Nights, an easily overlooked restaurant at the top of Williamson Ave in Ponsonby. Their food is fresh, generous and reasonably priced – order something off the grill and take advantage of their excellent vegetarian options, like the jackfruit rendang.
They’re more street food-focused at Java on Karangahape Rd, and (understandable, given the location) the whole setup is funkier and more stylish. The menu is mouth watering and you should try the Indonesian fried chicken, alongside a selection of the house-made sambals.
Or if you’re into more of a hit-and-run experience drop past either Makassar Corner or Raos in Dominion Rd. Both are super authentic and, though you wouldn’t choose them for your 10th wedding anniversary, they will be perfect (and open) next time you get Sunday cravings after a big Saturday night.
What you’ve asked, and what he’s shared.