Handbags made by designer Emily Mahy in Onehunga were showcased on the runway at New York Fashion Week. She takes Viva backstage.

New York Fashion Week’s Flying Solo show welcomes designers from around the world to collaborate on ensembles for the runway.

Designer Emily Mahy, who is usually based
in an Onehunga studio and showroom she shares with Jojo Ross, was among the creatives platformed at the NYFW event.

Her namesake label Mahy received an invitation to show at the beginning of this year. Emily successfully crowdfunded her trip, drawing on a community that supports her slow fashion approach to leatherwork (all of her pieces are made in New Zealand).

We asked the designer to take us along, provide a peek into the scenes backstage and reflect on the experience of showcasing fashion from Aotearoa on the world stage. Here is Emily’s NYFW diary, as told to Madeleine Crutchley.

The show

The group show featured a diverse range of designers, showcasing clothing, jewellery and bags. Fitting day was full of collaboration, as each designer worked alongside a stylist to create eight unique looks. The atmosphere was organised chaos – it was hectic yet incredibly exhilarating!

Photo / Kim MayPhoto / Kim May

Show day was buzzing with excitement. There was a palpable energy in the air as everyone came together to achieve the best possible outcome. The environment was super friendly and supportive, highlighting the collaborative nature of the event.

I created a specific New York Fashion Week Collection. This unique collection is an explosion of style where theatrical flair meets glamour to create bold, energetic accessories full of character.

Photo / Kim MayPhoto / Kim May

Vibrant colours and daring tones add a carefree approach to creativity. The collection is designed to celebrate personal beauty and character, inviting wearers to find pieces that resonate with their identity.

The collaborations

For our eight looks we collaborated with London-based clothing brand Add An Apron, shoe designers NS Nicole Salzar from Buenos Aires and American-based designer Rich and Rich Home Opportunities L.L.C. [There were also] accessories designed by Manika Jewellery.

Amid the styling of an ensemble. Photo / Kim MayAmid the styling of an ensemble. Photo / Kim MayOn the runway. Photo / Kim May On the runway. Photo / Kim May

A stylist from Flying Solo initiated the process by selecting garments, then curated accessories to elevate each ensemble. Throughout this process, the significance of the bags became evident, serving as pivotal elements that completed the looks. Ultimately, a collaborative effort ensured all designers were satisfied with the final presentations.

The beauty

The talented makeup artists from New York Make Up Academy, renowned for their work at multiple NYFW shows, focused on beautifully enhancing each model’s natural beauty.

Photo / Flying SoloPhoto / Flying Solo

With a busy schedule of back-to-back shows and models being shared across multiple runways, there was a fantastic opportunity to emphasise effortless elegance – creating a cohesive, polished look that complemented the overall vibe.

The big moment

While not a surprise, it was a delightful moment to see a male model confidently showcasing one of my bags. I would love for my collection to be seen as unisex and this cemented that goal.

Photo / Getty ImagesPhoto / Getty Images

The reaction

While I was backstage making final tweaks to the bags before the models walked out, I could feel the energy and buzz of the crowd. Afterwards, the positive feedback was truly rewarding and reaffirmed the impact of the collection.

The photographer pit. Photo / Carly SpoonerThe photographer pit. Photo / Carly Spooner

Off-schedule

While busy preparing for the show, I didn’t have much time for sightseeing, but I was fortunate to enjoy walking around East Village and along the High Line, soaking in the energy of the city.

[For food], El Quijote at the Hotel Chelsea was a standout moment, offering an unforgettable dining experience. Meanwhile, Basile’s Pizza in Jersey City became a regular haunt.

Photo / Emily MahyPhoto / Emily Mahy

Simply being in NYC was incredibly inspiring. It was vibrant and non-stop. It’s a city full of energy and diversity.

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