Tom Austin

A. Lange & Söhne has unveiled a new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, this time given the “Lumen” treatment, featuring a smoked sapphire dial that allows UV light to charge the luminous compound on the underlying displays.
This new Lange 1 integrates a tourbillon with a patented stop-seconds mechanism and a perpetual calendar featuring instantaneously switching displays, as well as the brand’s first luminous moon-phase with a day/night indication.
Limited to only 50 pieces, the watch is powered by the 685-part manufacture calibre L225.1 and is housed in a 41.9 mm 950 platinum case with extensive hand-finished, artisanal details.

If you took the time to read my recent piece introducing A. Lange & Söhne’s newly revealed, and painfully gorgeous Saxonia Annual Calendar, you’ll know that I mentioned that one of the brand’s most consistent strengths is balance. It’s a challenging task to bring together several complications into a watch that is not only sensibly sized but also has unique, often genre-defining aspects. And while the Annual Calendar is a lesson in restrained, complicated elegance, Lange has another surprise in store for Watches and Wonders 2026. The Lange 1 is one of the brand’s most iconic models, and this year it receives a similar luminescent upgrade that we saw given to the Datograph Lumen a couple of years back; a smoked, sapphire dial that allows the fully lumed components to glow brilliantly, all while exposing the tourbillon-regulated perpetual calendar movement inside.

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The case is typically Lange 1, albeit slightly on the larger side, but this is a complicated piece, so it can be forgiven. The 950 platinum case measures 41.9mm in diameter and, at 13mm thick, certainly has wrist presence. Both sides of the case are sealed with sapphire crystals, and the flanks are subtly interrupted firstly by the crown that takes care of winding and setting the time, but then by a main corrector for jointly advancing the calendar indications, then a corrector for changing the days, month, and moon phase.

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Importantly, there’s no surface finish on the dial to froth over, because it’s crafted from a single piece of smoked sapphire, with two apertures near the top for the signature outsized date windows. This smoked sapphire is there to allow the date wheel, moonphase, and date indicator, which are all covered in luminescent compound, to be charged in daylight, and of course, to shine through the sapphire, illuminating the entire dial when the lights go out. This is accentuated by luminous hands and several other markers across the dial, creating the most striking effect possible.

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Visible through the dial and the sapphire exhibition caseback is the calibre L225.1 self-winding perpetual calendar movement. It comprises 74 jewels and 684 components, which, when working together, offer a 50-hour power reserve and oscillate at 21,600 Vph, regulated by a beautifully finished tourbillon. As you would expect, the fabulous finishing extends everywhere else, to the German silver bridges, hand-engraved tourbillon cock, and winding rotor which features a centrifugal mass crafted from 950 platinum. 

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Completing the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a black, hand-stitched alligator leather strap, complete with Lange’s beautiful deployant quick-lock buckle, also crafted in case-matching 950 platinum. The biggest problem with this Lange 1 will, sadly, be getting one, assuming you can already afford it. There will only ever be 50 watches, so it’s going to be pretty rare, although there is no doubt that you will be able to spot one in the dark.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” pricing and availability

The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” is available now from A. Lange & Söhne boutiques, limited to 50 pieces. Price: Approx €550,000

Brand
A. Lange & Söhne

Model
Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”

Reference
720.035FE

Case Dimensions
41.9mm (D) x 13mm (T)

Case Material
950 platinum

Crystal(s)
Sapphire front and back

Dial
Smoked sapphire, luminous displays

Strap
Black alligator strap, 950 platinum deployant quick-lock buckle

Movement
Calibre L225.1, in-house, automatic

Power Reserve
50 hours

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with instantaneously switching date displays, retrograde day of week, month, and leap year; moon-phase display with integrated day/night indication

Availability
50 pieces

Price
Approx €550,000