The Viva team reports live from New Zealand Fashion Week Kahuria, with coverage of the major shows on the schedule.
Today’s line-up opened with By Kai, the Fashion Week debut of Makaira Lee after a decade working behind the scenes as an art director and stylist.
We’ll also be reporting
from Future of Fashion – Driven by Giltrap Group, which previews NZ’s up-and-coming design talent.
And tonight, we’ll be at the highly anticipated Kāhui Collective, a showcase of eight Aotearoa NZ-based Māori and Pasifika brands, alongside eight international Indigenous brands.
By Kai
Fijian performers open Makaira Lee’s By Kai show, with guests including Stan Walker in the front row. Photo / Annaleise Shortland
Two dancers in traditional Fijian dress welcomed guests at the door of Shed 10 this morning, their emphatic shouts of Bula! ringing out as attendees, including Stan Walker, waited for their coffee orders at the Daily Bread pop-up.
Makaira Lee’s NZFW debut for her eponymous label, By Kai, was titled “When are you coming home?” and the collection explored a sense of place; how home can be two places at once, speaking to Makaira’s Fijian roots and home base in Tāmaki Makaurau.
Photo / Annaleise Shortland
As a former art director at Ruby, Lee parted ways with the brand two years ago to pursue her dream of launching her own label. Emily Miller-Sharma, general manager of Ruby and Liam, explained Lee’s exit was a “great loss” for the homegrown brand, but she felt nothing but pride for her former colleague and friend.
“People you vibe with you’ll always feel connected to,” Miller-Sharma said.
The troupe of Fijian dancers returned to open the show, before models began to emerge from behind a metres-high art installation.
Photo / Annaleise Shortland
What followed was a series of highly wearable pieces that played on proportion – funnel neck jackets were paired with low-slung cargo pants or micro shorts, voluminous crops revealed midriffs above Bermuda shorts, cowl neck tops and dresses were exaggerated with fringed trim.
Photo / Annaleise Shortland
Some pieces felt like resortwear redefined – bikini tops peeked out from under mesh dresses or paired with scarf-style skirts – but sharp tailoring cemented the collection in the “now”, and I could see myself wearing one of By Kai’s many shirts to the office or drinks with friends.
Photo / Annaleise Shortland
Accessories ran the gamut from the micro to the maxi – teeny Jacquemus-style purses adorned with fibrous details or wooden beading through to an XXL clutch with a circular clasp.
Photo / Annaleise Shortland
Miller-Sharma was the first person out of her seat for the finale, clapping proudly as the rest of the crowd rose for a full standing ovation.
Photo / Annaleise Shortland
Everyone cheered, and tears flowed as Lee stepped out onto the runway, walking hand in hand with her mum. She reached out for her 5-year-old son on the walk back, carrying him backstage as the crowd continued their praise.
Photo / Annaleise Shortland
Photo / Annaleise Shortland
Photo / Annaleise Shortland
Overhead outside Shed 10: “I didn’t think I’d need tissues for a fashion show.” Neither did I. – Ashleigh Cometti
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