Are we getting the maximum protection from our sunscreen? Ashleigh Cometti investigates.
Despite New Zealand’s sun-safety culture, we still have one of the highest melanoma rates in the world*.
Since childhood, we’ve been told to slip, slop, slap and wear a hat, yet our sunscreen habits are surprisingly inconsistent.
Some
people believe applying sunscreen in the morning provides all-day protection from harmful UV rays. It doesn’t.
The gap remains between knowing SPF matters and applying it properly.
We asked three sunscreen experts about how to get adequate protection from SPF.
Are Kiwis applying enough sunscreen?
According to Rachel McAdam, head of medical relations at L’Oreal Dermatological Beauty ANZ, research shows most people don’t apply the recommended amount of sunscreen to achieve the full sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factors listed on the label.
“We need to apply about the equivalent of a teaspoon (5ml) for the face, neck, ears and a teaspoon for each limb. The whole body (if exposed) would require about 35ml to be adequately covered,” she says.
“This is why it is important to choose the highest SPF in the first place, as the SPF decreases with inadequate application.”
Dr Dominika Andrys, cosmetic scientist, author and founder of Beauty Brand Formula and Hub, agrees.
“SPF numbers are tested at 2mg per square centimetre of skin, which is far more than most of us use,” she says.
“Research consistently shows people apply somewhere between a quarter and half of that, so an SPF50 can end up working more like an SPF15 or lower.”
Photo / Jenny Wu Photography
What’s the difference between wearing SPF and getting adequate protection from it?
Even if you are applying the recommended seven teaspoons of sunscreen from top to toe, how often you apply sunscreen plays a major role in how well you are protected, says Steph Wood, founder of local sunscreen brand Sol Goods.
The protection offered only matches the SPF listed on the tube if sunscreen is applied sufficiently (the right quantity) and uniformly (an even layer all over).
“Sunscreens usually form an invisible film on the skin. Sweat, towelling, wiping can reduce the likelihood that the sunscreen film is still intact and open up areas where the skin can be unprotected,” McAdam says.
“This is why reapplication is important every two hours or after activities like swimming.”
Water-resistant sunscreens are tested to offer protection for set periods in the water, but Wood says no sunscreen is completely waterproof and much can come off while towelling post-swim.
“Even with a water-resistant sunscreen, frequent reapplication (around every two hours) matters, especially after swimming, sweating or towel drying, to make sure your sunscreen is working for you,” she says.
What should New Zealanders know about daily UV exposure?
Wood says sun is essential for our health, for vitamin D levels, sleep, immunity and mental wellbeing.
But she says New Zealand’s high UV levels mean it’s essential to be smart about when and how we’re exposed.
“The biggest thing to understand is the UV Index. When it’s 3 or above, you need sun protection. In a Kiwi summer it can reach 12-plus, which is extreme. We love the SunSmart UVNZ app for checking the UV before heading outside,” Wood says.
Sun damage doesn’t just happen on beach days, either, Andrys says.
Walks to cafes, school runs, gardening and driving to work all add up, because UV damage can build over a lifetime.
“Niwa says peak UV here is around 40% higher than at similar latitudes in the Northern Hemisphere, because of differences in ozone, cleaner air and the Earth sitting closer to the sun during our summer,” she says.
“UV isn’t heat either, so a cool, breezy or cloudy day can still burn you.”
McAdam says most sun damage occurs in our younger years, and it only takes five bad sunburns to double the risk of skin cancer and signs of premature ageing (sun spots, dullness, mottling, fine lines, wrinkles). Sun damage can occur before age 25 then show up decades later.
Photo / Jenny Wu Photography
Does positioning sunscreen like a beauty product encourage better daily use?
In recent years, the cosmetics industry has exploded with high-end facial formulations that incorporate sunscreen. But does SPF-infused makeup create a false sense of security when it comes to protection levels?
McAdam believes sunscreens should first be positioned as a health and life-saving tool, and second as a beauty essential.
Makeup or skincare products that contain UV-filtering agents but have a primary purpose other than sun protection (like hydrating or concealing) are considered a secondary sunscreen.
These products are not regulated in the same way as primary sunscreens, and are excluded from Australia’s therapeutic goods legislation under the Therapeutic Goods (Excluded Goods) Determination 2018.
“SPF in foundation or powder is a nice bonus, but you’d need to apply a very thick layer (far more than anyone would wear) to reach the stated SPF,” Andrys says.
“A pea-sized dab of SPF moisturiser or a light layer of SPF30 foundation often gives only a fraction of the protection on the label.”
Instead, apply a primary sunscreen offering high broad-spectrum SPF protection, and use skincare or makeup with additional SPF on top.
“Make-up that happens to contain SPF should not be used as a replacement for a dedicated sunscreen. The key is that your primary sunscreen is still doing the heavy lifting, then if your foundation, or lip and cheek tint happens to have SPF too, it’s a bonus,” Wood says.
“Importantly, SPF products don’t add together. For example, SPF 15 moisturiser and SPF 15 foundation does not give you SPF30.”
Primary sunscreens have come a long way since thick, greasy, white or smelly formulations, and Andrys says today’s textures “feel like a moisturiser, sit nicely under makeup and suit different skin tones”.
“When a product feels good on the skin, people use more of it and use it more often, which matters because consistency is everything with sun protection.”
How does sunscreen storage affect the formula’s efficacy?
“More than people realise,” Andrys says.
“In the lab we put sunscreens through stability testing at elevated temperatures because heat is their biggest enemy. Some UV filters break down faster when warm, emulsions can separate so filters are no longer evenly spread, and preservatives can weaken over time.”
So think again before you stash a bottle of sunscreen in the glovebox of your car.
Bottles that have spent summer in a hot car or sitting in full sun on the beach may not deliver the SPF protection listed on the label.
Instead, Andrys suggests storing your sunscreen bottle somewhere cool, keeping it in the shade or in your bag during beach days, and noting its expiry date.
Wood says all sunscreen comes with a three-year best before date, and age and time can slowly break down sunscreen formulas, lowering their level of protection. It’s for this reason that Sol Goods is housed in an aluminium tube, a material known for its ability to block light, oxygen and moisture.
Signs your sunscreen’s integrity has been affected (and therefore needs replacing) include a change in texture, colour or smell, or if it looks grainy or watery.
Sun Safety Tips
Sun-safe practices such as covering up with UV-blocking clothing, wearing a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses, and seeking shade during peak UV hours (mid-morning to late afternoon) go hand-in-hand with reapplying the right amount of sunscreen, evenly, every two hours (or more often when swimming, sweating or towelling).
Apply sunscreen 15 to 20 minutes before heading outdoors, and don’t forget areas people routinely miss – ears, neck, hairline, backs of hands, eyelids and lips.
“Find a texture you love, and keep it where you’ll use it,” Andrys says.
“Look for products that meet the AS/NZS sunscreen standard and are labelled broad spectrum, which means they protect against both UVA and UVB.”
Our experts agree that professional skin checks are a must. Mole Map New Zealand advises skin checks every 12 months if you have an average risk with no personal or family history of skin cancer, or every three to six months if you are higher risk. Self-checks at home are recommended every month for new spots or moles that have changed in size, shape or colour.
“Catching skin cancer early makes an enormous difference, and it’s one of the simplest things you can do for yourself,” Andrys says.
*Melanoma New Zealand reports an average of 3400 new registered cases annually.
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