On a cold day, or after a bit of strenuous (or not so strenuous) exercise, there’s nothing more soothing than dropping into a pool (or tub) of lovely warm water. Luckily, here in Aotearoa, we’re blessed with an abundance of places where people have managed to harness the hot water that bubbles out of the ground, and in places where it doesn’t, we’ve been blessed with inventive locals who’ve worked out how to replicate the experience.
Ngāwhā Springs
303 Ngāwhā Springs Rd, Ngāwhā, Northland
HOURS: Ngā Waiariki (main pools) – 7am to 9pm Wednesday to Sunday; Ngā Puna (smaller pool complex) – 7am to 2pm Monday and Tuesday
COST: Yes, try to book ahead. Bring proof of address for local and Northland resident concessions
NOTE: As these are geothermal springs, keep your head above water at all times.
Up until a few years ago, Ngāwhā Springs was run by a brilliant bunch of volunteers and it cost only a few bucks to get in. Since then, a fantastic lot of renovations have been done, which have improved the infrastructure markedly and it now provides much-needed jobs for local people.
The best thing about the renovations is that they’ve been done in a way that means the complex retains some of the rugged charm that made it so appealing in the first place, while now offering a much nicer environment in which to soak. One of the key changes is that instead of just paying an entry fee, you now pay for a two-hour session. The upside to this is that the place never gets crowded and you’re assured of being able to try out all 16 pools if you so desire. If you’re planning a visit, I recommend bringing old togs and towels if you have them as the mineral nature of the pools mean they can be a bit, shall we say, fragrant!
Each of the pools has its own name and distinct set of characteristics. They vary in colour, temperature and mineral make-up, which in turn means they all have different therapeutic properties. The hottest of the pools – the Bulldog and the Doctor – can get up into the high 40s, so they can be a bit of a challenge. At the other end of the spectrum, Milky Way and Kowhai sit in the low 20s.
My favourite pools depend on my mood a bit, but I always gravitate towards the bubbles of the mid-temperature Waikato, and the milky-hued Kotahitanga. The temperatures of each of the pools are posted every day so it’s easy to work out which ones you’re likely to find comfortable. There’s also the option of the smaller nearby Ngā Puna springs, which consists of eight pools and can be booked for private use.
These pools all have significance for Ngāpuhi, who have been coming to this place for healing and spiritual sustenance ever since their ancestor Kareariki first found the springs in the 17th century. Her descendants remain as the kaitiaki of the place in the form of the Parahirahi Ngawha Waiariki Trust. As well as protecting the springs for future generations, they share their connection to the place with visitors. In return, visitors are asked to respect the people and the wairua of the pools; part of doing that includes wearing appropriate, non-revealing swimwear.
Ngawha Springs. Photo / HarperCollins Publishers New Zealand
Ōkoroire Hot Springs
18 Somerville Rd, Ōkoroire, Waikato
PARKING: Yes, outside the hotel
HOURS: 9am to 9pm, seven days a week, but it pays to phone ahead in case the pools are being cleaned
COST: Yes
NOTE: As these are geothermal springs, keep your head above water at all times
For years, I drove past the brown signs inscribed with the words ‘historic hot springs hotel’ that point towards Ōkoroire, and thought ‘I must call in there one day . . .’ When that day came, I wished I’d stopped in sooner.
The historic hotel here sits on 28 hectares of grounds, including a golf course and these glorious hot pools. It would be pretty easy to come here and make a weekend of it, but it’s well worth a stop even if you’re just passing by.
Ōkoroire Hot Springs. Photo / HarperCollins Publishers New Zealand
When you arrive, pop into the hotel reception, where you can pay and they’ll give you access to the pools. It’s worth also taking a moment to check out the hotel, as it has been here for over 100 years.
In fact, a sanatorium was opened on the site in 1884, so that people had somewhere to stay when they came to soak in the healing waters, and the hotel followed five years later. The current hotel replaced the original one, which burned down in 1915.
From the hotel, it’s a thoroughly pleasant stroll downhill through the trees to the entrance of the pools. One of the first things you’ll notice when you get down there is the sound of rushing water. It’s not the pools, it’s the Waihou River – the same waterway that is fed by the magnificent Blue Spring (see as it tumbles down some rapids nearby).
The first pool you’ll encounter is right at the top of the complex, next to the changing rooms. Apparently, this pool used to be covered in, but it has been opened up during an extensive renovation of the place.
The largest of the complex’s three pools sits right next to the river. From the pool, you can take in the grandeur of the river without having to deal with its frigid temperature! The pools here range in temperature from 30C to 37C, so it’s worth testing them all out to find the one that suits you best.
The third pool is tucked into the hillside opposite the main pool, and it’s by far my favourite. A soft light bounces off the water, filtered through the lush native bush, while small pockets of air bubble up through the natural sandy floor, tickling you as they go.
It’s little wonder that the healing properties of these waters have been known for generations, with the place being particularly significant to the people of Ngāti Raukawa as it is here that their ancestor Raukawa was born.
Kerosene Creek
Old Waiotapu Rd, Rotorua, Bay of Plenty
PARKING: There’s a parking area to the side of the forestry road. There have been reports of cars being broken into here, so leave your valuables at home.
NOTE: As these are geothermal springs, keep your head above water at all times
One of the real joys of the active volcanic landscapes around Rotorua and Taupō is the array of hot pools that can be accessed for free. These include the Otumuheke Stream at the Spa Park in Taupō, Hot n Cold at Waiotapu and Butchers Pool just outside Reporoa, but the undoubted best of the bunch has to be the hot stream that is Kerosene Creek.
Thermal waterfall on Kerosene creek, Rotorua. Photo / HarperCollins Publishers New Zealand
As you rumble a couple of kilometres down a sometimes rumpty forestry road, you might find yourself wondering where on earth you’re going. Then you’ll get to a gate at the end of the road with an informal carpark next to it, and wonder the same thing again.
Once you’re out of the car, follow the well-worn track through the bush alongside the creek.
Top tip: put your togs on before you head out to the creek as there are no changing rooms here, just a fairly aromatic long-drop toilet where you don’t want to spend any more time than absolutely necessary.
Keep walking until you get to a small cascade that drops into a big pool, known by some as the Jacuzzi Pool. If you’re lucky enough to have the place to yourself, I reckon this is the best spot for a soak as you can sit right next to the falls and get a fairly vigorous back massage! Just how vigorous will depend on the flow of the creek, which in turn depends on rainfall. If it has been raining, the track can be a bit slippery so take care as you go.
The amount of rain can also impact the temperature of the water here, which is usually in the mid-30s. If you find the water a bit hot or a bit cool for your liking, just Goldilocks it and keep trying different spots until you find one that works for you.
If the first pool is busy, continue down the track about 100m and you’ll reach the star of the show – the hot waterfall. Here, the stream drops 2m into a much bigger swimming hole. You’ll need to rock hop a little bit to get into the water so just mind your footing as you go. The water here is deeper so you can actually swim in it rather than just lolling about, but, honestly, why exert yourself unnecessarily!
As it can get super busy here, avoid the weekends if you can. If that’s not possible, then try getting here early in the morning or later in the day. There is plenty of room, especially in the main pool, but there’s something lovely about having the place mostly to yourself.
Waikite Valley Hot Pools
648 Waikite Valley Rd, Waikite Valley, Waikato
PARKING: Plenty available outside the pools
HOURS: Daily from 10.30am to 8pm, last entry 7pm
COST: Yes
Waikite Valley Hot Pools is one of those places that has something for everyone, so it’s well worth the half-hour drive from Rotorua to get there. It’s also a great stop-off point if you’re driving between Rotorua and Taupō on SH5. Even better, if you’ve got time on your hands and a tent/caravan/campervan, there’s a camping ground right next door that might just allow you to sneak into the pools before everyone else gets there!
However you decide to get there, the drive out to these hot pools is beaut. Once you turn off the main highway at Waiotapu, you’ll find yourself in rolling green countryside. As you drop down into the valley, you’ll get a hint of where you’re heading in the form of plumes of steam rising from the ground.
The valley is home to a network of more than 35 springs, one of which – Te Manaroa – is the source of the water for the pool complex. Make sure you put aside a little bit of time either before or after your soak to wander along the Te Manaroa Spring Walkway to check out the magnificence of the huge boiling spring, which is the very soul of this place.
Waikite Valley Hot Pools. Photo / HarperCollins Publishers New Zealand
From the spring flows the Ōtamakokore Stream, part of which was diverted across a series of cascades in order to cool its water enough to bathe in. This created the earliest iteration of the pools here. Since those early days, a whole complex has been built up, including a cafe, spacious changing rooms and six public pools.
The largest of these, the Settlers Pool, looks like a normal swimming pool but differs in that it sits at around 37C. Next to it are a couple of cooler tubs and behind them is the Soak Pool, which is the hottest in the place.
For my money, though, the best spots here are the Garden Pool and the Pergola Pool, both of which have been beautifully landscaped to reflect the natural environment. They also both afford lovely views across the steaming waters of the Ōtamakokore Stream and the farmland beyond. The Pergola Pool is the cooler of the two, but only by a couple of degrees.
One of the things I love about this place is the fact that, apart from the more automated cooling process, the water is exactly as it was when it flowed out of the spring. This means that when the pools are drained, the water flows straight back down into the stream. It also means that the water is still rich in minerals that make the soaking experience here even more revitalising, just make sure you take old togs and towels as that minerality can hang about for a bit longer than you might like.
The Great Kiwi Bucket List: 120 Secret Spots, hidden gems and curious places. Photo / HarperCollins Publishers New Zealand
For more excellent hot spring locations, including South Island options and hundreds more ideas, The Great Kiwi Bucket List: 120 Secret Spots, hidden gems and curious places by Nicola McCloy is out now.
RRP: $49.99
HarperCollins Publishers New Zealand