Can we really biohack skin ageing? Why is everyone talking about bacteria? How does the way we walk dictate our skin health? Ashleigh Cometti found the answers at the Shiseido Beauty Innovation Summit 2025 in Cannes.<\/p>\n
\n Few locations are quite as picturesque as Cannes, renowned for its glamorous international film
\n festival (the resort town is overrun with Hollywood\u2019s elite annually in May), sandy beaches, luxury shopping precinct and palatial hotels.\n <\/p>\n
It proved the perfect setting for this year\u2019s Shiseido Beauty Innovation Summit 2025, which saw 150 dermatologists, brand founders, media and influencers flock to the French Riviera for a full day of learning sessions and experiences. <\/p>\n
The Shiseido group encompasses a handful of prestige beauty brands, including Cl\u00e9 de Peau Beaut\u00e9, Ul\u00e9, Gallin\u00e9e, Drunk Elephant, and Dr. Dennis Gross, alongside well-known fragrance houses Narcisco Rodriguez, Issey Miyake Parfums, Serge Lutens and more. Max Mara is set to join the fold from 2026.<\/p>\n
Underpinned by the theme of harmony – with nature, skin and people – the Summit provided plenty of fascinating insights, emerging trends and groundbreaking beauty discoveries. <\/p>\n
Here are the six most important things I learned at the Summit, and how these lessons will change my skincare routine (and yours) for good. <\/p>\n
The Shiseido Beauty Summit took place in Cannes in the South of France.<\/p>\n
Lesson 1: Bacteria are powerful allies<\/p>\n
There\u2019s beauty in bacteria, says Lily Mijouin, an expert in microbiology who heads up Shiseido\u2019s microbiome research platform. <\/p>\n
\u201cNature and bacterial ecosystems are powerful allies. If we protect them, and work with them in harmony, they can protect us in return,\u201d she explained, citing her research on how bacteria is able to break down microplastics and pollution. <\/p>\n
More specifically, cyanobacteria and proteobacteria, which are powerhouses at breaking down heavy metals on skin. <\/p>\n
Mijouin\u2019s research in this field saw her conduct M.A.R.E, a study of marine bacteria in the Mediterranean Sea. Across two months, the team analysed bacterial diversity and identified pollution-cleaning bacteria. <\/p>\n
These findings help inform the development of formulas that respect the delicate balance of the skin\u2019s microbionic system, in a fusion of science and sustainability. <\/p>\n
This concept was supported by Marie Drago, a pharmaceutical doctor and founder of Gallinee, who explained how the unique skin microbiome varies from person to person. \u201cEveryone is their own little planet,\u201d she said, adding that skin resilience is key to a healthy microbiome.<\/p>\n
It was with this in mind that she developed Gallinee\u2019s youth bacteria which evolves with skin as we age, helping to produce ceramides and hyaluronic in skin on site. <\/p>\n
\u201cIt forms the basis of a new strategy for how we want the skin microbiome to work,\u201d she said. <\/p>\n
What this means for your skincare routine<\/p>\n
Your skin\u2019s microbiome is ever-changing, and needs to be cared for accordingly. These changes can be due to environmental aggressors, UV exposure, ageing, skincare and much more. <\/p>\n
Understanding this means we can tailor our topical skincare to ensure we\u2019re meeting the changing needs of skin – subbing in soothing products when skin is feeling inflamed or irritated, or upping our hydration in warmer climes. <\/p>\n
Take Drago\u2019s advice and boost your skin\u2019s resilience and fortify your skin barrier by incorporating products containing pre-, pro- or postbiotics, which support the ecosystem that\u2019s live on the skin\u2019s surface. <\/p>\n
What\u2019s the difference? Prebiotics are non-living ingredients that feed the skin\u2019s beneficial bacteria (already present on skin), probiotics come from live sources and protect the skin microbiome. Postbiotics are the byproducts left behind from this feeding process. <\/p>\n
Lesson 2: Treat dark spots at a cellular level<\/p>\n
Researcher Saaya Koike has spent the last six years researching skin tone and, in particular, the mechanisms involved in the formation of dark spots. <\/p>\n
During her keynote speech \u201cCracking The Code Of Dark Spots\u201d, she shared her findings – namely that treating dark spots requires early intervention, and does more than just addressing the visible signs. <\/p>\n
\u201cIt is not enough to target the pigmentation process, we also need to act at an earlier stage, at a cellular level,\u201d she said, adding effective treatment involves understanding the structure of skin and the environment in which dark spots are triggered. <\/p>\n
Koike pointed to mitochondria\u2019s role in creating dark spots, explaining that these cell components can lead to an excessive deposition of melanin in the skin when they\u2019re not functioning properly. <\/p>\n
One of mitochondria\u2019s many functions is supporting the health of melanocytes, or the cells that produce melanin. Mitochondrial dysfunction causes impaired melanin production and distribution – aka dark spots. <\/p>\n
Koike explained that research showed how skin displaying dark spots had 211 upregulated genes linked to a particular protein known to slow down skin cell turnover. <\/p>\n
This led to the development of a new skincare product featuring an embargoed plant-based extract known to suppress this protein. The formulation is supercharged by an ingredient called 4MSK, which slows the production of melanin in the skin. <\/p>\n
What this means for your skincare routine<\/p>\n
While you can\u2019t stop dark spots at a genetic level, there are a handful of measures you can take to prevent or fade them. <\/p>\n
Being sun smart is one of them, using broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 50, and reapplying every two hours. Avoiding UV exposure at peak times is also a good idea (generally between 10am and 4pm). <\/p>\n
A consistent skincare routine will also help – look for formulas with brightening agents like vitamin C or retinol (used morning and night respectively) or incorporate gentle AHAs to fend off dullness caused by dark spots. <\/p>\n
A Shiseido exclusive, 4MSK is a known tyrosinase inhibitor, which is said to help prevent pigmentation from forming in the first place. Other tyrosinase inhibitors include koji acid and azelaic acid, among others. <\/p>\n
Viva Beauty Editor Ashleigh Cometti in Cannes for the Shiseido Beauty Innovation Summit 2025.<\/p>\n
Photo \/ Supplied<\/p>\n
Lesson 3: Biocompatible ingredients are best for skin<\/p>\n
In all my years as beauty editor, I\u2019ve never heard someone speak quite so passionately about ingredients than Nathan Rivas, vice president of global research and product development for Drunk Elephant. <\/p>\n
His presentation at the Summit highlighted the importance of using clinically-proven active ingredients that work in harmony with skin. <\/p>\n
\u201cWe look for biocompatible ingredients that mirror as closely as possible their natural counterparts in skin,\u201d he explained, pointing to the brand\u2019s newest innovation – the Amino Rain Glasswater Serum, $114<\/a>. <\/p>\n Amino acid is produced naturally in the skin, crucial for strengthening and repairing, maintaining hydration, protecting against environmental aggressors, boosting cell renewal and fending off the signs of ageing. <\/p>\n It was with this in mind that the formulation expert sought to use a 1% fermented polyamino acid in the brand\u2019s newest launch, a serum said to support the skin\u2019s firmness, elasticity and moisture levels. <\/p>\n What this means for your skincare routine<\/p>\n Consumers are more informed about ingredients now than ever – decoding INCI lists and unpacking formulations online – which can only be a good thing. <\/p>\n Understanding naturally occurring skincare ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide, collagen, elastin and vitamins A, C and E helps demystify the skincare shopping experience. Always remember ingredients are listed in order of concentration. <\/p>\n There\u2019s plenty of choice when it comes to serums and moisturisers containing these ingredients, but expect to see more targeted treatments unveiled over the next 12-18 months as new ways of producing biocompatible ingredients come to the fore. <\/p>\n