Can sensitive skin types use acids? Are dry skin and dehydrated skin the same thing? Should we listen to skincare trends? An expert weighs in. <\/p>\n
There\u2019s no one-size-fits-all approach to skincare, and no one understands this quite like Drunk Elephant\u2019s Nathan Rivas. <\/p>\n
\n The frustrated consumer turned cosmetic chemist
\n was one of the early employees of the brand, which was founded by Tiffany Masterton in 2012 in Houston, Texas.\n <\/p>\n
As the president of global research and product development, Rivas divides his time between the library and laboratory, fastidious in his approach to formulating skincare, ensuring products find the sweet spot between industry want and consumer need. <\/p>\n
Who better then to debunk four common skincare myths and offer pragmatic advice on what to do instead? Here are Rivas\u2019 top tips. <\/p>\n
Drunk Elephant’s Nathan Rivas. Photo \/ Supplied<\/p>\n
Myth 1: Certain skincare ingredients are \u2018bad\u2019 for skin <\/p>\n
Drunk Elephant has its own list of six ingredients that won\u2019t crop up in its formulas or feature on its product\u2019s INCI (ingredients) lists, but Rivas is quick to assert that such ingredients aren\u2019t dangerous to skin health. <\/p>\n
He explains certain ingredients like silicones, essential oils and artificial fragrances can present \u201cpotential challenges on a formulation level\u201d, meaning they can slow down the absorption of active ingredients to skin, or present \u201croad blocks to you getting the most out of your routine\u201d. <\/p>\n
\u201cFor example, exposure to high amounts of essential oils or fragrances can make your skin less able to tolerate vitamin C, AHAs\/BHA, or retinol that it would normally be able to benefit from,\u201d he says. <\/p>\n
Drunk Elephant\u2019s decision to avoid certain ingredients isn\u2019t designed to incite fear in consumers, Rivas adds, explaining how some skincare brands talk about what they avoid by labelling some ingredients as \u201ctoxic\u201d or \u201cdangerous\u201d in their descriptions. <\/p>\n
Rather, Rivas recommends seeking out formulas loaded with biocompatible ingredients \u2013 or those that have as close as possible a counterpart in skin. <\/p>\n
He says ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is the best example of this, explaining that some forms are chemically identical to the ascorbic acid found naturally in skin. Using biocompatible ingredients \u201ctranslates to typically more efficient, speedier results than ingredients that are less biocompatible\u201d, he says. <\/p>\n
Derivatives can still be \u201cabsolutely effective\u201d, he says, but they need to go through a few additional steps to be translated by skin into a form that works best. <\/p>\n
\u201cThat\u2019s why we will use higher concentrations of derivatives to compensate for what\u2019s lost in that translation,\u201d he adds. <\/p>\n
Photo \/ Supplied<\/p>\n
Myth 2: Skincare routines should be static <\/p>\n
Rivas maintains one of the best parts of his role in product development is being able to try different formulas \u2013 and the same can be said of your skincare routine. <\/p>\n
Don\u2019t be afraid to get a little experimental when it comes to skincare, Rivas says. <\/p>\n
Instead, Rivas recommends mixing or layering pH-compatible products. <\/p>\n
The only exception to layering products is where occlusives and silicones are concerned, which Rivas says can potentially slow down or prevent the absorption of actives. <\/p>\n
More is not always more, though, and Rivas warns that in some cases, adding certain actives means subbing others out. A skincare routine can be a movable feast, one which changes with the seasons or shifts in lifestyle. The key is being able to recognise when tweaks are needed and respond accordingly with the gentlest of approaches. <\/p>\n
\u201cAs a result of having more actives in my skincare routine, it meant I couldn\u2019t use certain ingredients anymore. But I\u2019m not the only person who\u2019s in that boat. Some people can\u2019t use ascorbic acid [vitamin C] at a 15% [concentration] and others don\u2019t like it from a texture perspective. It can be a little tacky,\u201d he says. <\/p>\n
\u201cThat\u2019s the nature of the beast for this ingredient at this percentage. Some of these things are deal breakers for [consumers].\u201d<\/p>\n
Myth 3: Dry skin and dehydrated skin are the same thing <\/p>\n
It\u2019s a commonly held misconception that dry skin and dehydrated skin are one and the same. The nuances between the two can be difficult to discern at times, but the truth remains: dry skin lacks lipids (or oils) while dehydrated skin lacks water. <\/p>\n
Dehydrated skin is a temporary skin condition, while dry skin is a skin type lacking in natural oils. For example, you can have an oily\/combination skin type and experience dehydration. <\/p>\n
The hallmarks of dehydrated skin include dullness, loss of elasticity and fine lines and wrinkles, while dry skin can appear flaky, scaly, red or irritated. <\/p>\n
In both cases, hydration should be a priority, Rivas says. In the same way that many people tote around an emotional support water bottle, all skin types should use products to give their skin a daily hydration boost. <\/p>\n
He adds some people may experience chronic dehydration, the underlying cause of which can be properly diagnosed by a GP or dermatologist. <\/p>\n
\u201cSome of us can never maintain water levels, which is why we always seem to be dehydrated and our skin always feels tight no matter what we do to it,\u201d he says. <\/p>\n
Photo \/ Supplied<\/p>\n
Myth 4: Sensitive skin types can\u2019t use acids <\/p>\n
If there\u2019s only one takeaway from this story, Rivas says let it be this: if you have sensitive skin, you don\u2019t need to steer clear of acids. <\/p>\n
\u201cSometimes acids have a bad reputation \u2013 some of it is well deserved \u2013 but there are safe actives and acids that are foolproof. They can be helpful without irritation,\u201d Rivas says. <\/p>\n
There\u2019s another element that consumers may not know about, Rivas adds, explaining that sometimes it\u2019s not the fault of the acids that certain skin types react to their use. <\/p>\n
In many cases, there are other elements in the formula that are contributors, Rivas says, like a sensitivity to high levels of fragrance or alcohols, a reaction caused by other supporting ingredients, or other products in a skincare routine that are tipping the scales into the realm of irritation. <\/p>\n
Concentration levels also have a lot to answer for. <\/p>\n
\u201cA 10% concentration of AHA [alpha hydroxy acids] may be out of reach for you. So looking at lower-percentage AHA, or maybe a milder AHA like lactic acid is a better bet,\u201d Rivas says. <\/p>\n
\u201cSometimes it\u2019s the type of acid, the concentration or strength of the acid, the frequency, or what else they have in the routine that can be leading to a reaction.\u201d <\/p>\n
If you\u2019re using retinol daily, then it might not be possible to use even a mild AHA frequently, so Rivas advises baby-stepping those actives into your routine one at a time. <\/p>\n
\u201cThrow one active in at a very casual pace, maybe twice a week and see how your skin responds. If it\u2019s responding well, then maybe up the concentration or frequency. Or you can stay exactly where it\u2019s at. Finding the right balance for you is a matter of trial and error.\u201d<\/p>\n
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