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From the start, the palette was disciplined \u2014 blacks, whites and ecru \u2014 then punctured by flashes of color and texture. Lines were clean. Draping softened, then snapped back into structure: archetypal couture.<\/p>\n
At its best, Anderson\u2019s couture had the crispness he has already shown in menswear, and previously at Loewe. <\/p>\n
A sublime silken Asian-style coat, strict and elegant, was cut through with black lapels that felt archive-meets-modern.<\/p>\n
Pannier fanny packs<\/p>\n
The house\u2019s history appeared not as costume but as distortion.<\/p>\n
The show\u2019s oddest and most telling jokes were the pannier gowns: 18th-century volume reimagined as a take on a fanny pack silhouette. <\/p>\n
It was classic Anderson: take something precious, tilt it, and make the result feel both witty and exact. Micro became macro \u2014 flowers cut from light silks, dense embroideries, chiffon and organza layered like feathers.<\/p>\n
He also nodded to a broader Dior lineage without leaning on nostalgia. <\/p>\n
Flowers make fabulous earrings<\/p>\n
Dior cited bunches of cyclamen given to Anderson by its former creative director John Galliano, and the show carried a faint echo of Galliano-style spectacle \u2014 filtered through Anderson\u2019s cooler, more controlled hand.<\/p>\n
Hydrangea-like blooms appeared as oversized earrings throughout, a decorative flourish, but one that felt like Dior\u2019s house codes pushing him toward embellishment.<\/p>\n
For all the ambition, the accomplished show occasionally felt like a set of strong parts still settling into a single, defining line. <\/p>\n
Couture raises the stakes. When it works, it doesn\u2019t just impress; it convinces. Anderson\u2019s debut did both \u2014 but not always at the same time.<\/p>\n
The ceiling garden promised one complete world. At times, the clothes felt like a designer still deciding where that garden begins and ends.<\/p>\n
Horns, plumes and more S\u00e1nchez at Schiaparelli<\/p>\n
If Dior said it with flowers, Schiaparelli said it with plumes. The painted ceilings of the Petit Palais were made to evoke the Sistine Chapel in a typical imaginative and envelope-pushing couture display \u2014 graced by the likes of S\u00e1nchez Bezos and her husband Jeff, as well as Demi Moore. It was plumes, horns and lots of celebrity.<\/p>\n
Designer Daniel Roseberry framed the collection as a push from \u201cthinking\u201d to \u201cfeeling,\u201d and the clothes followed suit: sharp-shouldered \u201cElsa\u201d jackets with gravity-defying hips, bustiers that seemed molded like armor, and skirts that bloomed in smoky sfumato tulle from nude to black.<\/p>\n
There were creatures everywhere \u2014 bird heads, scorpion tails, snake teeth and she-scorpion looks that turned lingerie into couture theater.<\/p>\n
Nearly 70,000 Schiaparelli feathers<\/p>\n
Technique did the heavy lifting: bas-relief lace bouquets mounted on tulle, trompe l\u2019oeil animal tails, and showpieces that reportedly took thousands of hours \u2014 including one with 65,000 handset feathers.<\/p>\n
The keyhole motif \u2014 a Schiaparelli signature \u2014 returned as jewelry and hardware, a wink at mystery amid the meticulousness.<\/p>\n
At its best, the collection balanced menace with beauty, making couture feel like fantasy built on discipline.<\/p>\n
At other moments, the exuberance nearly tipped into costume, a victim of its own enthusiasm, as if every idea had to arrive at full volume.<\/p>\n
Still, as an opening salvo for couture week, Schiaparelli made the message clear: this season, subtlety can wait.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"PARIS (AP) \u2014 Dior turned the Mus\u00e9e Rodin into a celebrity waiting room \u2014 then into a garden…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":253765,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[32],"tags":[87545,146932,430,146933,1099,156,1438,1221,3717,146931,2583,146930,263,111,139,69,6943,37574,142518,255],"class_list":{"0":"post-253764","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-celebrities","8":"tag-apparel-and-accessories-manufacturing","9":"tag-brigitte-macron","10":"tag-celebrities","11":"tag-daniel-roseberry","12":"tag-demi-moore","13":"tag-entertainment","14":"tag-fashion","15":"tag-france","16":"tag-general-news","17":"tag-john-galliano","18":"tag-jonathan-anderson","19":"tag-lauren-snchez-bezos","20":"tag-lifestyle","21":"tag-new-zealand","22":"tag-newzealand","23":"tag-nz","24":"tag-paris","25":"tag-rihanna","26":"tag-send-to-apple-news","27":"tag-world-news"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/253764","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=253764"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/253764\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/253765"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=253764"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=253764"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=253764"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
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