{"id":266384,"date":"2026-02-04T01:19:07","date_gmt":"2026-02-04T01:19:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/266384\/"},"modified":"2026-02-04T01:19:07","modified_gmt":"2026-02-04T01:19:07","slug":"jesse-mulligan-northcote-points-new-italian-restaurant-sfera-is-casual-buzzy-deliciously-good-value","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/266384\/","title":{"rendered":"Jesse Mulligan: Northcote Point\u2019s New Italian Restaurant Sfera Is Casual, Buzzy &#038; Deliciously Good Value"},"content":{"rendered":"<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black \">Can the team behind a former Viva Top 50 Best Restaurant strike gold again?<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black \">After my evisceration of Kureta last week, a nice man from their PR team got in touch. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black \">\n         \u201cThank you for your honest review,\u201d he wrote, convincingly. \u201cGive us 30 days to work on your feedback<br \/>\n         then come back and see how we\u2019ve improved.\u201d\n        <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">You need steely nerves to do this job, but even I will struggle to return and sit face to face for three hours with a knife-wielding chef I just <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nzherald.co.nz\/viva\/food-drink\/jesse-mulligan-kureta-at-jw-marriott-auckland-is-hard-to-find-harder-to-love\/premium\/DG3R22AXANHHXCQSKZGT4AN5IY\/\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.nzherald.co.nz\/viva\/food-drink\/jesse-mulligan-kureta-at-jw-marriott-auckland-is-hard-to-find-harder-to-love\/premium\/DG3R22AXANHHXCQSKZGT4AN5IY\/\">slated in print<\/a>. Perhaps I\u2019ll eventually summon the courage but until then you should know that the restaurant (which has huge potential) is working hard on rapid improvement. I suspect there\u2019d be no better time to visit. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">It was slightly less awkward when I wandered past the Engine Room last week and ran into manager Natalia Schamroth enjoying the sun and chatting to some locals. \u201cThanks for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nzherald.co.nz\/viva\/food-drink\/jesse-mulligan-restaurant-review-the-engine-room-is-a-timeless-northcote-favourite\/YMCV54TTOJGSRCMP4HV375IQJU\/\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.nzherald.co.nz\/viva\/food-drink\/jesse-mulligan-restaurant-review-the-engine-room-is-a-timeless-northcote-favourite\/YMCV54TTOJGSRCMP4HV375IQJU\/\">the glowing review<\/a>!\u201d she waved, though when I slowed down to chat, she admitted that after a run on the ultra-value $49 steaks I\u2019d raved about a couple of weeks ago, she\u2019s now reluctantly had to raise them to $52. At that price they\u2019re still among the best tasting and least expensive in town.<\/p>\n<p><img  alt=\"Sfera is just across the road from The Engine Room in Northcote Point. Photo \/ Dean Purcell\" class=\"responsively-lazy\"\/>Sfera is just across the road from The Engine Room in Northcote Point. Photo \/ Dean Purcell<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">But I couldn\u2019t stand there chewing the fat with Natalia all day. I had business across the road at Sfera, a new opening where the scotch fillet is $55 and pretty darn good too. It\u2019s the new venture from the team behind Candela (Viva\u2019s Best Auckland Restaurant of 2022 but now closed), in collaboration with the family who\u2019ve run Clarence Road Eatery in this spot for a number of years. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">I just re-read <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nzherald.co.nz\/viva\/food-drink\/restaurant-review-clarence-rd-eatery-northcote\/GME7536ZFYDNPPSS24Q2IIN4HE\/\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.nzherald.co.nz\/viva\/food-drink\/restaurant-review-clarence-rd-eatery-northcote\/GME7536ZFYDNPPSS24Q2IIN4HE\/\">my 2017 review of that place<\/a>, which was generally positive but did complain the room was \u201coverlit, glassy and in need of some music\u201d. They\u2019ve certainly solved that last problem with a stereo system so loud that you must continually ask the person you\u2019re eating with to repeat themselves. At one point, while browsing the menu, I said \u201cthis all looks good, do you have any favourites?\u201d and after a few silent seconds looked up at the waiter who shouted \u201csorry, are you talking to me?\u201d <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">I have a few of these sorts of complaints but I don\u2019t want to list them all in a row because, actually, I enjoyed my meal at this great little restaurant. It\u2019s casual, buzzy and deliciously good value. The main question they (and their customers) will need to work out is, what gap are they trying to fill? The menu is made up of dishes (pizza, pasta, Italian bistro favourites) that are already done well in lots of places. So why would you come here, in particular? <\/p>\n<p><img  alt=\"Sfera serves Italian bistro favourites. Photo \/ Dean Purcell\" class=\"responsively-lazy\"\/>Sfera serves Italian bistro favourites. Photo \/ Dean Purcell<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">Probably because you live locally and the food is largely faultless. The ownership team took a month-long trip around Italy to inspire the menu, and though their accountant might wonder if it really required a four-person trip to the Northern hemisphere to come up with the idea of serving arancini, I\u2019m happy to reassure them it\u2019s the best arancini I\u2019ve eaten, inspired by the fashionable cacio e pepe pasta, with splotches of dark mayo so fragrant and flavourful I\u2019ve recategorised black pepper from \u201cseasoning\u201d to \u201cspice\u201d in my mental pantry. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">I enjoyed the flavour of our next two dishes \u2013 melon\/prosciutto and tomato\/peach\/stracciatella. These are pretty reliable combinations if your ingredients are good, but the design of each dish didn\u2019t quite work for me. The first one arrives in a pretty stack, which you have to cut down the middle to share. I don\u2019t know if you can imagine trying to cut through a thin piece of cured ham with only a chunk of melon and some soft cheese below it for resistance, but it\u2019s pretty much impossible not to end up with a wet messy pile, and wet doesn\u2019t really work with charcuterie. I thought the second dish would be sliced but the tomato came in chunks, and so did the peach. Again, nothing wrong with the flavours, but (I guess the opposite problem to the melon dish) I wanted it to be more integrated before I put it in my mouth. To reiterate, both dishes tasted great. <\/p>\n<p><img  alt=\"The melon prosciutto with whipped ricotta, honey, basil and dill, from Northcote Point's new restaurant, Sfera. Photo \/ Dean Purcell\" class=\"responsively-lazy\"\/>The melon prosciutto with whipped ricotta, honey, basil and dill, from Northcote Point&#8217;s new restaurant, Sfera. Photo \/ Dean Purcell<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">Mains all arrived at once, which surprised me. We feasted on a sliced steak, drenched in a lovely green peppercorn sauce and topped with fresh green herbs, and we really enjoyed our woodfired cabbage with goat\u2019s cheese, almonds and a spicy chilli oil. Our third dish was a very solid rigatoni alla vodka, which may now have taken over cacio e pepe as Auckland\u2019s trendy Italian dish of the mid-2020s. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">Can two heterosexual men share one tiramisu without self-consciousness? Well, we certainly gave it a good go, and left the restaurant happy and replete. We\u2019d had three drinks each, including cocktails, and the bill was more than $100 cheaper than a similar-size meal at The Engine Room a couple of months earlier. Service was a step down, but sometimes that doesn\u2019t matter if all you want is pizza and a glass of wine. Maybe they\u2019ve slotted into a good gap after all. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">Address: 124 Queen St, Northcote Point <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">Contact: 09 480 9600, sfera.co.nz<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">From the menu: arancini $17, prosciutto and melon $22, tomato and peach salad $26, scotch fillet $56, woodfired cabbage $24, rigatoni alla vodka $24 <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">Score: 0-7 Steer clear. 8-12 Disappointing, give it a miss. 13-15 Good, give it a go. 16-18 Great, plan a visit. 19-20 Outstanding, don\u2019t delay.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black nQBCzZDznEEEs\">According to dining out editor Jesse Mulligan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Can the team behind a former Viva Top 50 Best Restaurant strike gold again? After my evisceration of&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":266385,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[6030,4057,3390,151786,67232,151787,156,2740,4241,6101,185,2198,2537,2538,117,111,139,55139,69,44625,2539,151785,4485,7187,32561,159],"class_list":["post-266384","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-entertainment","tag-again","tag-behind","tag-best","tag-buzzy","tag-casual","tag-deliciously","tag-entertainment","tag-former","tag-gold","tag-good","tag-is","tag-italian","tag-jesse","tag-mulligan","tag-new","tag-new-zealand","tag-newzealand","tag-northcote","tag-nz","tag-points","tag-restaurant","tag-sfera","tag-strike","tag-team","tag-value","tag-viva"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/266384","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=266384"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/266384\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/266385"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=266384"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=266384"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=266384"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}