{"id":281173,"date":"2026-02-12T22:34:17","date_gmt":"2026-02-12T22:34:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/281173\/"},"modified":"2026-02-12T22:34:17","modified_gmt":"2026-02-12T22:34:17","slug":"from-aroha-to-vyra-the-brand-that-sparked-a-debate-on-cultural-appropriation","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/281173\/","title":{"rendered":"From Aroha to Vyra: The brand that sparked a debate on cultural appropriation"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>After facing backlash over its use of a M\u0101ori word, Australian activewear brand Aroha Collective has rebranded as Vyra. The controversy reveals why language, profit and accountability are never just \u2018surface level\u2019.<\/p>\n<p>On Tuesday evening, Australian-based activewear company Aroha Collective announced it was changing its name to Vyra.<br \/>\u201cThis isn\u2019t a rebrand. It\u2019s a reflection of who we are now,\u201d the company said in a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/photo?fbid=951759730751177&amp;set=a.181520001108491\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">social media post<\/a>. The statement framed the shift as a natural evolution \u2013 from \u201cconnection and softness\u201d to \u201cstrength\u201d \u2013 positioning the change as growth rather than retreat.<br \/>But there was a bigger story.<br \/>Despite operating since 2021, Aroha Collective only recently came under sustained scrutiny after it was revealed that its founder, Katie Bourke, is not M\u0101ori. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/watch\/?v=863073216563956\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">A video in which Bourke explained<\/a> she chose the name because she \u201cdidn\u2019t want an Australian name\u201d and wanted to be \u201ca little bit different\u201d sparked debate across social media. The clip was intended to share the brand\u2019s origin story. Instead, it ignited a broader conversation about cultural appropriation and the commercial use of te reo M\u0101ori.<br \/>\u201cWhen I was researching the brand, I wanted meaning behind it,\u201d Bourke said in the video. She explained that the business was built around the concept of love and compassion and she\u2019d factored having a M\u0101ori stepdaughter into her decision-making process.<br \/>The reaction was swift and divided.<\/p>\n<p><img alt=\"Storefront of Aroha Collection with glass doors, mannequins displaying clothing inside, and a large white sign above the entrance. The sidewalk and street reflections are visible in the glass.\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" decoding=\"async\" data-nimg=\"responsive\" style=\"position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%\"\/>The Aroha storefront in Surfer\u2019s Paradise, Australia. (Image: Aroha).<\/p>\n<p>Some M\u0101ori voices, including <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DURg7szkz19\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Korotangi Paki<\/a> \u2013 brother of Ku\u012bni Nga wai hono i te po \u2013 saw no inherent issue with the use of the word. Others were openly critical. Content creator Holly-May Neho <a href=\"https:\/\/www.tiktok.com\/@hecticbyhm\/video\/7600490091965975816?embed_source=121374463%2C121468991%2C121439635%2C121749182%2C121433650%2C121404359%2C121497414%2C122122240%2C121351166%2C121811500%2C121960941%2C122122244%2C122122243%2C122122242%2C121487028%2C121331973%2C120811592%2C120810756%2C121885509%3Bnull%3Bembed_masking&amp;refer=embed&amp;referer_url=www.nzherald.co.nz%2Fnz%2Fwellington%2Faustralian-activewear-brand-aroha-originally-claimed-to-be-maori-owned%2FKLIJOC5DC5HWNPCXXENG6UN5CU%2F&amp;referer_video_id=7600490091965975816\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">called it appropriation<\/a>. Some questioned whether the brand reflected M\u0101ori values, particularly given the absence of M\u0101ori representation in its marketing.<br \/>As attention intensified, further revelations followed. It emerged the company had been alerted to concerns about the name six months earlier. Screenshots circulated showing the brand responding to a comment in June by stating it was M\u0101ori-owned \u2013 a claim Bourke later said was the result of a misunderstanding by a staff member managing social media accounts.<br \/>Then came the apology.<\/p>\n<p>Bourke <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/reel\/782816597488838\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">posted a video<\/a> apologising \u201cto the entire M\u0101ori culture\u201d, acknowledging that her research into the word had been surface-level. She insisted the brand had never intended to present itself as a M\u0101ori business and said a rebrand was not something that could happen overnight.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThis was never based on traditional culture. We\u2019ve never branded as a M\u0101ori brand. We are not a M\u0101ori brand. The cultural ties, we were not aware of until six months ago,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n<p>But for many M\u0101ori, the issue was never simply about intention.<br \/>\u201cAroha\u201d is often translated as \u201clove\u201d, but that translation barely scratches the surface.<\/p>\n<p>According to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.teaonews.co.nz\/2020\/07\/06\/dr-hinemoa-elder-on-the-meaning-of-aroha\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">psychiatrist and author Hinemoa Elder<\/a>, the word can be understood as a compound concept: aro relates to thought, attention and focus; ro to inner reflection; h\u0101 to breath and life force; and oha to generosity and abundance. In te ao M\u0101ori, aroha carries layered meanings of care, responsibility and relationship.<\/p>\n<p><img alt=\"Head and shoulders portrait of Dr Hinemoa Elder alongside the cover of her book, Aroha\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" decoding=\"async\" data-nimg=\"responsive\" style=\"position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%\"\/>Dr Hinemoa Elder and her book, Aroha. (Photo: Rhuk).<\/p>\n<p>\u201cTe reo M\u0101ori is a living language and a taonga,\u201d Ngahiwi Apanui-Barr, Tumu Whakahaere of Te Taura Whiri i te Reo M\u0101ori, told The Spinoff.<br \/>\u201cWords like aroha resonate with many people because they express rich and layered meanings, including care, concern, compassion, and responsibility for others, not simply a direct translation of the English word \u2018love\u2019.\u201d<br \/>Apanui-Barr emphasised that the commission does not discourage respectful use of te reo M\u0101ori, however, he said organisations using M\u0101ori language in branding should engage with M\u0101ori communities and avoid trademarking M\u0101ori words or concepts.<br \/>\u201cIt\u2019s not too late for them to come and talk to us so we can guide them through the issues. Situations like this present an opportunity for conversation and connection. Ultimately, the value of aroha is grounded in relationships \u2013 in listening, learning, and showing mutual respect.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>That distinction \u2013 between use and misuse \u2013 sits at the heart of the debate.<\/p>\n<p>For M\u0101ori entrepreneurs, the controversy also touched on a deeper history.<\/p>\n<p>Kat Tua, founder of the brand Manaaki, said she commends Bourke for taking steps to change the name, but she also sees the issue as part of a much longer pattern.<br \/>\u201cA word like aroha \u2013 just like manaaki \u2013 is not just a beautiful word in te reo M\u0101ori; it\u2019s a powerful one,\u201d Tua said. \u201cIt carries whakapapa, responsibility and mana. Holding a word like that isn\u2019t a marketing decision for me, it\u2019s a privilege I don\u2019t take lightly.\u201d<br \/>Tua recalled being shocked when she discovered that \u201cManaaki\u201d had already been trademarked by the Crown \u2013 the same entity historically responsible for suppressing te reo M\u0101ori \u2013 and required permission for its commercial use.<br \/>\u201cI\u2019ve encountered barriers where the goalposts are incredibly high just to access and live my own culture and language,\u201d she said. \u201cThat\u2019s the difference people often miss \u2013 M\u0101ori culture was actively suppressed and nearly erased. It\u2019s not comparable to cultures that have always been free to live, breathe, and benefit from their language in their own countries.\u201d<br \/>For Tua, the issue is not simply whether a non-M\u0101ori person can use a M\u0101ori word. It is about who benefits.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cM\u0101ori, like many indigenous cultures, have a long history of our culture being profited from by non-M\u0101ori,\u201d she said, pointing to the late 1800s, when <a href=\"https:\/\/journals.ub.uni-heidelberg.de\/index.php\/rihajournal\/article\/view\/70271\/69999\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">photographs and postcards depicting M\u0101ori<\/a> were circulated globally as tourism commodities.<\/p>\n<p><img alt=\"Manaaki Designer Kat Tua.\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" decoding=\"async\" data-nimg=\"responsive\" style=\"position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%\"\/>Fashion designer Kat Tua. (Photo: Apela Bell)<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe issue then, as it is now, was where the profits went.\u201d<br \/>Aroha isn\u2019t the first company to have faced scrutiny for adopting a M\u0101ori word as a brand. International running shoe giant Hoka takes its name from hoka, a te reo M\u0101ori word meaning \u201cto fly\u201d. In recent years, the brand has <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rnz.co.nz\/life\/lifestyle\/style\/hoka-shoes-uses-a-maori-name-why-don-t-they-say-so\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">drawn criticism<\/a> for using the word without clearly acknowledging its origins or demonstrating meaningful engagement with M\u0101ori communities.\u00a0 Early references to the word\u2019s M\u0101ori roots have quietly disappeared from its website, while promotional material frequently mispronounced the name. <br \/>The controversy highlighted a recurring tension \u2013 while te reo M\u0101ori is increasingly visible and globally admired, the communities from which it comes are rarely centred in decisions about how it is used \u2013 or who benefits from its commercial success.<br \/>In announcing the shift to Vyra, Bourke said the brand did not want communities \u201cfighting against each other\u201d. She cited bullying, racism, and comments directed at children connected to the business as part of the reason for stepping away from the name.<br \/>The company confirmed that remaining Aroha-branded stock \u2013 reportedly worth hundreds of thousands of dollars \u2013 would continue to be sold during the transition.<\/p>\n<p>The Spinoff contacted Bourke for comment.<\/p>\n<p>The rebrand tells a story. It signals that sustained public pressure, and M\u0101ori voices, have weight. But it also leaves unresolved questions about accountability in a global market where indigenous language can be admired, stylised and monetised far from its cultural roots.<br \/>Apanui-Barr suggests that for Australian businesses, there are opportunities closer to home: \u201cMore broadly, this situation highlights the importance of authenticity,\u201d he said. \u201cFor Australian businesses, there are opportunities to work alongside Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples to draw on indigenous language and identity in ways that reflect their own place and context.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The debate over Aroha Collective was never just about a single brand. It was about what happens when language is treated as inspiration rather than inheritance. About whether intent outweighs impact. About whether change follows harm \u2013 or only follows backlash.<\/p>\n<p>Vyra may represent strength and progression for its founder. For M\u0101ori, the conversation it sparked was about something older and deeper. It was about who gets to carry a word like aroha \u2013 and what responsibility comes with it.<\/p>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><script async src=\"\/\/www.tiktok.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"After facing backlash over its use of a M\u0101ori word, Australian activewear brand Aroha Collective has rebranded as&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":281174,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[157333,26380,157334,1438,64709,42,43,2935,40,38,41,39],"class_list":["post-281173","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-headlines","tag-aroha-collective","tag-atea","tag-cultural-appropriation","tag-fashion","tag-fashion-industry","tag-headlines","tag-news","tag-society","tag-top-news","tag-top-stories","tag-topnews","tag-topstories"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/281173","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=281173"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/281173\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/281174"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=281173"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=281173"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=281173"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}