How\u2019s it going this year? \u201cIt\u2019s definitely a difficult season,\u201d says Graeme Wright. He\u2019s the operations manager for Invercargill-based Barnes Oysters and speaks for the Bluff Oyster Management Company (BOMC), which represents the industry\u2019s quota owners.<\/p>\n
The shellfish are considered environmental whistleblowers<\/a> and Bluff oysters have been in a high-profile battle with bonamia ostreae. The parasite is fatal and has significantly depleted Bluff stocks<\/a>. It was found in Marlborough Sounds in 2015 and made its way down to Big Glory Bay on Rakiura Stewart Island, where it was found in 2017. Wright says that while bonamia ostreae hasn\u2019t been detected in the Foveaux Strait, it is \u201calive and well in Big Glory Bay, very scarily\u201d.<\/p>\n Another parasite, bonamia exitiosa, is endemic to Bluff oysters. It\u2019s been in the fishery since at least the 1960s. While there\u2019s been a \u201cslightly lower prevalence\u201d of that this summer than past years, Wright says both together are a huge concern. \u201cEvidence suggests that if you have a concurrent infection with both bonamia ostreae and exitiosa, the outcome is not good.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n \u201cThe last three or four years we\u2019ve had really poor quality oysters. The size of the shell has been perfectly good, but the meat quality and size has been really poor,\u201d explains Wright. \u201cThat again seems to be a cyclic thing.\u201d<\/p>\n Globally, a lot is still unknown about bonamia. \u201cThey don\u2019t understand its life cycle, how it spreads, if there\u2019s other vectors involved,\u201d Wright says. What they do know is that it\u2019s a disease that thrives on density. \u201cIf you\u2019ve got high populations, you get a huge spread.\u201d Which is what makes Big Glory Bay\u2019s ongoing outbreak so scary. While there aren\u2019t many oysters left there after the culling in 2017<\/a>, the unofficial numbers of exitiosa are \u201cterrifying\u201d.<\/p>\n Risks in the region are managed through a combination of controlled area notices, boat protocols like hull cleaning and restricting bilge discharge. (Biosecurity New Zealand expects bonamia ostreae to reach Foveaux Strait in the coming years<\/a>.)<\/p>\n Fisheries New Zealand completes an annual survey ahead of each season, looking at the size of the oysters, how abundant they are and the prevalence of disease. The final results will be presented to the Shellfish Working Group in May and findings won\u2019t be released to the public until November. However the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries has confirmed<\/a> preliminary findings showed little oyster mortality, with deaths caused by disease \u201cgreatly reduced\u201d, says Wright. \u201cWhich is really good news.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n It also showed a large number of new oysters beginning to grow to larger sizes. Reproduction doesn\u2019t happen every year, but the signs are promising. \u201cThe last two or three summers we\u2019ve had massive reproduction \u2013 lots and lots of little baby oysters.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n This means the industry is in a lag phase as numbers replenish. Densities of legal-sized oysters have reduced, which makes harvesting challenging. Last year Barnes Wild Bluff Oysters caught only 45%<\/a> of its quota.<\/p>\n Boats were out yesterday for the first time since last week due to bad weather. The first left port at 2.30am. The Foveaux Strait is famously wild, and the environment impacts not only oyster quality but also being able to get out and harvest them at all.<\/p>\n Wright says there\u2019s no denying the fishery is definitely in a bit of a bumpy spot. \u201cAs an industry, we\u2019ll do everything in our power to ensure its long term sustainability. Everyone has the same motive. No one\u2019s there to take the last oyster,\u201d he says. \u201cSome people have chosen not to fish\u2026 Which we fully acknowledge and support.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n This will be the second year Ng\u0101i Tahu Seafood has sat out of Bluff oyster season. It\u2019s concerned about the fishery\u2019s ongoing state and resilience after seeing the decline in quantity and quality of tio (oysters). \u201cGiven the condition of the fishery and the clear guidance from mana whenua, not fishing tio this season is the right call. Our priority is supporting the long-term sustainability of the tio fishery and protecting it for future generations,\u201d Todd Moyle, chief executive of Ng\u0101i Tahu Holdings, said in a media statement.\u00a0<\/p>\n The decision is backed by Awarua R\u016bnaka Ltd, a subsidiary of Ng\u0101i Tahu that manages commercial interests of the Bluff-based Awarua wh\u0101nau. Mana whenua says that the \u201ccumulative pressures\u201d of disease and climate change call for a \u201cprecautionary, protection-first\u201d approach. Awarua R\u016bnaka chair Barry Bragg is encouraging the industry to consider a shorter harvesting season and leaving primary beds undisturbed.<\/p>\n Bluff\u2019s oyster fishery is Aotearoa\u2019s oldest commercial fishery and it plays a significant role in Southland\u2019s economy. There\u2019s the crew on the boats, seasonal workers, factory staff, retailers, restaurants. Tourists come just for the oysters.\u00a0<\/p>\n The Bluff Oyster and Food Festival is returning on May 23. It\u2019s one of the biggest dates in the Southland calendar. Past years have seen its patrons consume up to 20,000 oysters over the course of the event. (The festival didn\u2019t respond to questions from The Spinoff).<\/p>\n The market for Bluff oyster is primarily domestic. You\u2019ll find them across the country, but be prepared to pay. A pottle of 12 Bluff oysters from Wellington Seamarket costs $39.98. At New World Prestons in Christchurch you\u2019ll pay closer to $50<\/a>. Some restaurants plan to serve them, others are giving them a miss this year.<\/p>\n Up in Auckland they\u2019re often a flagship menu item. Britomart restaurant Kingi specialises in sustainable seafood and expects to be serving Bluff oysters later in the season. First Mates, Last Laugh in Westhaven has them on the menu already (and they\u2019re always popular).<\/p>\n Soul Bar & Bistro\u2019s says that while the demand is there, the product isn\u2019t. \u201cIt\u2019s been hard to get them,\u201d explains general manager Olivia Carter. They won\u2019t be holding their annual two-day all-you-can-eat Bluff oyster festival in 2026. In past years the restaurant would order 2000 dozen oysters for the occasion. \u201cWe decided not to do our big event this year. It\u2019s not a possibility for us, so we\u2019re supporting the industry in a smaller way, led by our suppliers.\u201d Bluff oysters will still be on the menu\u2026 if and when they can get them.<\/p>\nA Bluff oyster in 2018. (Photo: Getty Images)<\/p>\n
Bluff oysters being harvested. (Photo: Barnes Wild Bluff Oysters)<\/p>\n
Oyster boats go out for around 10-12 hours, when the weathers\u2019 good. (Photo: Barnes Wild Bluff Oysters)<\/p>\n
Ng\u0101i Tahu Seafood has hit pause. (Photo: Ng\u0101i Tahu)<\/p>\n
Oysters Kilpatrick at Soul\u2019s Bluff Oyster Day 2025; an alternative at Depot. (Photos: Soul, Depot).<\/p>\n