\n who are preparing for their showcases at New Zealand Fashion Week (NZFW) in August<\/a>. There is plenty to consider: closures, openings, celebrations for emergent designers and labels working on a world stage.\n <\/p>\n
Juliette Hogan, speaking as chair of industry group Fashion & Textiles NZ, says local fashion is facing many of the same economic challenges as other industries. However, there are issues that are unique \u2013 for example, the rise of ultra-fast fashion<\/a>.<\/p>\n \u201cDesigners that are based in New Zealand and produce in New Zealand are competing with a product that is coming in from offshore sometimes at a much lower price point. Producing clothing in New Zealand does garner a higher price tag.\u201d<\/p>\n In response, Hogan sees fashion working creatively to problem solve across the production chain. But she says, there is room for further support and recognition of an industry that added $7.8 billion to the economy in 2023<\/a>. <\/p>\n \u201cThere are a lot of challenges and we would love support with from the Government… to be able to ensure that this industry is able to be the success story that it has been and will continue to be.\u201d<\/p>\n Below, leading designers talk about their experiences from inside the industry.<\/p>\n Caitlin Crisp <\/p>\n The Auckland-based designer will be the first solo show<\/a> at this year\u2019s Fashion Week, after headlining the Christchurch Spring Fashion Festival.<\/p>\n In one word New Zealand fashion right now is… Busy. <\/p>\n A lot of designers are participating in New Zealand Fashion Week, so we\u2019re very busy in the lead-up to that. <\/p>\n A challenge I see in New Zealand fashion right now is our supply chain. I originally made everything here \u2013 and still try to make as much as I possibly can here. But there is quite a generational gap in the owners and makers that we have, and the people coming through and what they want to do. <\/p>\n The wider change I\u2019d like to see is the awareness of what skills are needed, where the jobs are and what the opportunities are. Naturally \u2013 and fair enough, I can\u2019t be hypocritical because I am a designer \u2013 everyone comes out of studying wanting to be a designer… but there are crucial roles where there are bigger gaps in our industry. Those really practical skills that we need to bring it together. <\/p>\n Three labels I\u2019m excited about are… Harris Tapper, Rebe and Wynn Hamlyn. <\/p>\n My fashion hero is… Myself \u2013 I think what I\u2019ve done, and how I\u2019ve achieved it is how I\u2019ve always dreamt it to be. <\/p>\n In one word New Zealand fashion right now is… Slow.<\/p>\n It\u2019s both positive and negative. People care a lot more about sustainability \u2013 we don\u2019t have a lot of brands that do fast fashion and that\u2019s really important. <\/p>\n But I\u2019ve also been talking to pattern makers, factories and small ateliers and they have not been getting work. A lot of brands are moving things overseas. I think we need more young people to learn the skills of pattern-making, sewing. I just want to see that skill set carry on. <\/p>\n At some point, it was thriving \u2013 Made In New Zealand was very important. How do we bring work back to New Zealand? Cost-wise it is higher but it comes with care and quality. <\/p>\n I\u2019m a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) in New York. There is a fund for local factories and makers, and I think something like that would really help from the Government to help bring back that part of the industry. They need more work. <\/p>\n My fashion hero is… the founder of Kowtow, Gosia Pi\u0105tek. <\/p>\n Harris Tapper<\/p>\n Harris Tapper co-founders Sarah Gould Harris and Lauren Tapper recently celebrated their launch with US-based luxury retailer Modus Operandi, marking a significant milestone for the label\u2019s international ambitions. Harris Tapper will be shown at NZFW as a part of The Studio group show. <\/p>\n In one word New Zealand fashion right now is… Determined.<\/p>\n There\u2019s an inherent tenacity in the brands, that you have to have if you\u2019re in the game right now. <\/p>\n A lot of these New Zealand fashion businesses, in a New Zealand way of working, are taking it all on. A really hard part is to recognise when you\u2019re taking on too much. What we\u2019ve started to do is hire incredible people that are specialised \u2013 we\u2019re at the size now where we can do that. But sometimes that mindset can hinder your growth because there\u2019re things you need to be doing that you\u2019re not. <\/p>\n Three labels we\u2019re excited about are… Sylvester, Rebe and Porter James. <\/p>\n Our local fashion heroes are… [Designer] Georgia Currie<\/a>, still one of the most talented New Zealand creatives of all time. Jamie Whiting. He taught us so much in the time we worked for him.<\/p>\n Adrion Atelier<\/p>\n Adrian Williams creates high fashion ready-to-wear and made-to-order garments and debuted at NZFW last year. This year, he will be a part of The Studio. <\/p>\n In one word New Zealand fashion right now is… What\u2019s a word that describes something stagnant that has the potential to move? In a pause? <\/p>\n At the moment, it\u2019s semi-sustainable if you have a certain structure. You have to be very aware of changes coming and be in the position where you can make quick changes \u2013 which luckily for me I can because I\u2019m still a small brand. <\/p>\n [Fashion in New Zealand] is doing what it needs to do to survive. Creativity is still pushing through but it\u2019s a little bit harder for designers. As a independent designer, when I see the price points or things and where you have go in New Zealand to produce it, I think there needs to be education around consumption. It is a mind shift. When people say \u201cIt\u2019s so expensive,\u201d I\u2019m like, \u201cthere are so many steps to it.\u201d<\/p>\n Three brands I\u2019m excited about are… Rory William Docherty, Entire Studios and Kiri Nathan. <\/p>\n My fashion hero is… NZFW creative director Dan Ahwa.<\/p>\n Fringes <\/p>\n Finn Mora-Hill (Ng\u0101i Tahu) built a strong presence for his label Fringes through emergent events like Te Wiki \u0100hua o Aotearoa and with the support of The Shelter. Fringes will show at NZFW as a part of The Studio. <\/p>\n In one word New Zealand fashion right now is… Diverse. <\/p>\n So many are coming at fashion with different angles. You have people treating fashion as art, people trying to survive as a business and you have people who just want to create. <\/p>\n I make everything myself, so the challenge with that is that I have to account for my time. There\u2019re only so many hours in the day and I also have to eat and pay rent. Trying to manage being able to express designs, and make it commercially viable, and run the whole business side of things is probably the biggest challenge of the whole thing. <\/p>\nPhoto \/ Hope Patterson<\/p>\n
Photo \/ Hope Patterson<\/p>\n
Sarah Harris Gould and Lauren Tapper of Harris Tapper. Photo \/ Hope Patterson<\/p>\n
Finn Mora-Hill of Fringes. Photo \/ Hope Patterson<\/p>\n