\u2026 dished out a shitload of stars<\/p>\n
Most people expected one or two. Ren\u00e9 de Monchy, head of Tourism New Zealand, said he\u2019d hoped for \u201cone in each region\u201d. (The guide is focused on Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown.) What Aotearoa got was 14 single stars and one two-star restaurant. Awarded one star were Auckland\u2019s Ahi, Mudbrick, Paris Butter, Tala, The Estate; Wellington\u2019s Jano Bistro, Logan Brown and Ortega Fish Shack; Christchurch\u2019s Inati and Tussock Hill; and Queenstown\u2019s Amisfield, Kika, R\u0101t\u0101 and Sherwood.<\/p>\n
Chefs aren\u2019t usually a loquacious bunch and the thank you speeches were more amuse-bouche than main course. Mudbrick\u2019s Mrinal Ghosal accepted theirs with a classic \u201cchur New Zealand\u201d as well as a \u201cyeah, nah\u201d. Zennon Wijlens, collecting Paris Butter\u2019s star alongside co-chef Nick Honeyman, revealed he had \u201cthe drys\u201d and that this wasn\u2019t on their bingo card this year.<\/p>\n
\u2018Dedication, talent and the pursuit of excellence\u2019<\/p>\n
That\u2019s what we were there to celebrate, said Poullennec, explaining this was the furthest that Michelin had ever travelled and their inspectors were impressed by the quality of our produce and restaurants\u2019 \u201cconnection to land and sea\u201d. He explained that all the decisions were made collectively and his inspectors, who spent a month here, \u201calways pay their own bill\u201d.\u00a0<\/p>\n
The tension ramped up for the two-star winner. \u201cThe chef is with us in the room,\u201d said Poullennec. Cameras began stalking the crowd alongside roving (and very hot) spotlights. They found Paul Froggatt, head chef of Essence, an ultra-high-end restaurant located in a luxury hotel on the shores of Lake Wakatipu that you probably haven\u2019t been to. He punched the air and got the second standing ovation of the night.<\/p>\n
Before all the stars, the 60 restaurants included in the Michelin Guide (but not receiving stars) were announced. Auckland counts 1947 Eatery, Ada, Advieh, Alma, Baduzzi, Bar Magda, Bossi, Cassia, East, Esther, Gilt, Hello Beasty, Jervois Steak House, Ki M\u0101ha, Kingi, Kol, Lillius, Metita, Morell, Mr Morris, One Tree Grill, Onslow, Origine, Otto, Ragtag, The Lodge, Sails and The French Caf\u00e9. Wellington has 50-50, Boulcott Street Bistro, Charley Noble, Damascus, Floriditas, Graze, Highwater, Kisa, Koji, Margot, Napoli, Ombra, Rita, Rosella and Shed 5. Bessie, Cellar Door, Hugo and Miro from Christchurch made the cut too. So did Queenstown\u2019s Arc, Bianca by Giovi, Billy\u2019s, Botswana Butchery, Jervois Steak House, Millhouse, Nest, The Lodge, Soda, The Dining Room, The Woolshed, Toast & Oak and True South Dining Room. (If you\u2019re counting, that\u2019s two each for Michael Meredith, Sid Sahrawat\u2026 and menswear retailer Rodd & Gunn.)<\/p>\n
Another 35 restaurants were awarded the Bib Gourmand, which denotes \u201cgreat value\u201d (though none of these places are cheap). There\u2019s Ap\u00e9ro Food & Wine, Atelier, Bianca, Bistro Saine, Boda, Cazador, Gemmayze Street, Goat, Milenta, Osteria Uno, Parro, Pasta & Cuore and Tempero from Auckland. The capital\u2019s 1154 Pastaria, Cicio Cacio, Hummingbird and Indian Alley. Christchurch restaurants A\u2019mano, Earl, Fire And Slice, Gatherings, Londo, Odeon, Roca, Soul Quarter, The Athens Yacht Club and The Monday Room. And Aosta, Bombay Palace, Francesca, Muttonbird, Paloma Taqueria, Sundays, The Cow, and Treehouse from the Queenstown-W\u0101naka region.\u00a0<\/p>\n
And Michelin didn\u2019t stop there. Special awards were given out to three \u201coutstanding individuals\u201d: Stina Persen from Graze (service), Robert Fairs from Londo (young chef) and The French Caf\u00e9\u2019s Matthew Aitchison (sommelier).<\/p>\n
Some of the Bib Gourmand winners with their plaques.
\nHenry Onesemo made history<\/p>\n
The first star of the night went to Tala, the first and only Samoan restaurant in the world to receive the honour. Chef Henry Onesemo looked shocked and on the verge of tears as he mounted the stage and unfurled a Samoan flag, helpfully held by the Michelin Man (whose official name is Bibendum), who finally had more to do than give a thumbs up. I caught up with him (Onesemo, not Mr Michelin) before the ceremony. <\/p>\n
Standing by the wall (he\u2019s shy), Onesemo said he\u2019d nearly thrown up three times. \u201cI\u2019m just nervous to be around a lot of people.\u201d Tala, the innovative restaurant<\/a> he runs alongside wife Debbie, seats only 24 guests at a time. They opened it in 2023 but Onesemo had been working towards the dream for years. He started staging (culinary speak for interning) 12 years ago in one of Michael Meredith\u2019s restaurants. \u201cI went there to try and learn something, and here we are in the same room,\u201d he said. \u201cJust being here, with Michael, is mind boggling.\u201d<\/p>\n Everyone was emotional<\/p>\n Sonia Gray, MCing the event, kept saying so. She was moved to the point of distraction, forgetting to give one winner their microphone and another\u2019s introductory blurb. The laidback, personable ceremony felt very \u201cKiwi\u201d. Although chefs are generally considered a stoic bunch, some were moved to tears and there wasn\u2019t an onion in sight.<\/p>\n We all got to eat some Michelin-starred food<\/p>\n Amid much more sedate music and some long-awaited booze, attendees explored a \u201ctasting pavilion\u201d that dished out food from Michelin-starred chefs. The menu delivered inventive hors d\u2019oeuvres with a Kiwi twist; palusami and \u201clau moli\u201d from the Tala kitchen, L&P reimagined by Taiwanese chef Nobu Lee, abalone chawanmushi by US chef Michael Cimarusti, feijoa mallow puffs by Logan Brown, and Ahi doing interesting things with beef, caviar and pikopiko.<\/p>\n Everywhere people were popping canap\u00e9s in their mouth and saying \u201cwow\u201d with a camera in their face. A small army of tiny microphones captured more nuanced takes, including what this means for New Zealand food. There was a lot of content being captured; Patrick Chew, who produces editorial for Michelin in Asia and the Middle East, and his crew were talking to chefs about their work. He reckons New Zealand food is \u201cfantastic\u201d. Circling around the crowd was a migrating food activation that involved cutting your own poppy-esque ice blocks.<\/p>\n Between the bright sweeping lights and pounding dramatic soundtrack, it felt like being at a UFC match or a megachurch. I guess competitive physical sacrifices and the expense of being an acolyte are things you\u2019ll find in the restaurant industry too. The ceremony began with a countdown soundtracked with a heartbeat and ended with all the star-awarded chefs lined up, like prize fighters, across the stage for photo ops with assorted stakeholders and the Michelin man himself.<\/p>\n Some people were missing<\/p>\n There were 500 people expected to attend but not all the chairs were filled. There were some surprising omissions from the invite list, too: Auckland\u2019s Japanese degustation restaurant Cocoro and its chef Makoto Tokuyama, which has three Cuisine hats, was missing from the guide; as was Plabita Florence<\/a> and Forest<\/a>, Metro\u2019s 2024 restaurant of the year; and Lyttelton\u2019s Mapu<\/a>, run by awards regular Giulio Sturla.<\/a><\/p>\n Chefs don\u2019t get out much<\/p>\n They\u2019re usually tethered to their kitchens and work ungodly hours, so this was a rare chance for New Zealand chefs to a) leave them and b) see their peers. Most were wearing their whites, which was charming and also helpful for knowing which restaurants were there. Everyone kept saying how nice it was to be with each other, especially after a challenging few years. \u201cEvery other day we hear about a restaurant closing,\u201d Henry Onesemo told me. \u201cI just want to forget about the bad news.\u201d It looked far from everyone\u2019s minds; convened in the cocktail area after the ceremony, a murmuration of chefs talked shop and had fun.<\/p>\n The pressure\u2019s not over<\/p>\n Keeping a Michelin star is a challenge in itself. Losing one can be devastating.<\/p>\n It\u2019s still a man\u2019s world<\/p>\n Of all the chefs that came on to the stage only one, Ortega Fish Shack\u2019s Teresa Pert, was a woman.<\/p>\n This is all part of Tourism New Zealand\u2019s strategy; it wants New Zealand to be a food destination. The Michelin Guide is about selling Kiwi cuisine and they think it could entice 36,000 more international visitors here.\u00a0<\/p>\n Talking after the ceremony, amid the cocktail swilling and finger food, Ren\u00e9 de Monchy explained that although \u201csome people are Michelin travellers\u201d it\u2019s a \u201cpretty niche\u201d group. However, everyone eats and most tourists are interested in food; \u201c80% of people say trying local cuisine is something they want to do, but they don\u2019t always know what\u2019s on offer.\u201d He thinks that the guide will help them find it and have a flow-on effect to the wider hospitality industry. \u201cIt goes beyond just Michelin\u2026 there\u2019s great food and beverage all across the country.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n The partnership, which has cost New Zealand $6.3 million over three years (some of it from the International Visitor Levy) promises to deliver another two guides. The spend covers elements like assessment and promotion. The goal of bringing it here was to increase food-related tourism to New Zealand, which has a ripple effect for other hospitality businesses. (Australia turned down<\/a> a similar, though much more costly, opportunity last year.)<\/p>\n New Zealand is already a powerhouse when it comes to food. Louise Upston used her welcome speech to remind us that New Zealand feeds 40 million people around the world and hospitality is vital to our economy, contributing $9 billion to GDP. The sector employs 193,000 people<\/a>.<\/p>\n There are hopes that Michelin will expand its scope<\/p>\n Poullennec said this was \u201cthe beginning\u2026 a first step\u201d.<\/p>\n When it came to awarding stars, Michelin\u2019s inspectors largely blessed high-end restaurants with menus based on kitchen gardens and foraging. \u201cMany of the restaurants are the same ilk,\u201d noted food writer Johanna Thornton, former judge of Viva\u2019s restaurant awards. \u201cIt celebrates a certain type of restaurant.\u201d She hopes to see a wider variety of restaurants recognised next year. (Yes, there\u2019s a next year; the partnership spans two more years at least.)<\/p>\n There\u2019s been plenty of criticism levelled at the cost, supposed benefits<\/a> and the guide\u2019s four-city focus. Two of the country\u2019s best restaurants, Blue Duck Station and Craggy Range, were out of contention due to their location. Restaurateurs outside of the main centres have criticised the guide\u2019s largely urban scope, including Liz Buttimore<\/a>, co-owner of Arbour in Marlborough, and Karl Martin-Boulton<\/a> from The Green in Hamilton.<\/p>\n At the moment Tourism New Zealand says it\u2019s focused on the four regions, confirms de Monchy, where two-thirds of the country\u2019s restaurants are located. \u201cBut we\u2019ll certainly assess it.\u201d<\/p>\n It\u2019s not just about the chefs<\/p>\n Several chefs were at pains to point out that there are a whole lot of people who make a great restaurant Michelin worthy. \u201cStars do not happen without everyone \u2013 front of house, back of house,\u201d said Paris Butter chef and co-owner Nick Honeyman of what he (politely) told the crowd were \u201cchef-centric awards\u201d. Talking to The Spinoff after the ceremony, an \u201coverjoyed\u201d Paul Froggatt said that Essence\u2019s two stars weren\u2019t his alone. \u201cThis is teamwork,\u201d he explained, from the front of house to the back, the dishwasher and the people who deal with the rubbish. \u201cI\u2019d like to thank the team, my wife, my children\u2026 everyone who made this happen. It\u2019s not just me.\u201d He had a glass of bubbles in hand. Finally.\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"It\u2019s taken the Michelin Guide 125 years to reach NZ. Was it worth the wait? The anticipation has…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":504887,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[564,42,15557,141,54677,43,2539,40,38,41,39,10097],"class_list":["post-504886","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-headlines","tag-food","tag-headlines","tag-hospitality","tag-kai","tag-michelin","tag-news","tag-restaurant","tag-top-news","tag-top-stories","tag-topnews","tag-topstories","tag-tourism"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/504886","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=504886"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/504886\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/504887"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=504886"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=504886"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=504886"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}World-class nibs.
\nIt was a bit like a UFC match or a megachurch service<\/p>\nTeresa Pert receives her Michelin-star-chef jacket, which are made by Lafont.
\nTourism New Zealand is going long on food<\/p>\n