{"id":515315,"date":"2026-07-08T05:43:17","date_gmt":"2026-07-08T05:43:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/515315\/"},"modified":"2026-07-08T05:43:17","modified_gmt":"2026-07-08T05:43:17","slug":"jesse-mulligan-reviews-oh-calcutta-why-theyre-still-getting-it-right-after-32-years","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/515315\/","title":{"rendered":"Jesse Mulligan Reviews Oh Calcutta: Why They\u2019re Still Getting It Right After 32 Years"},"content":{"rendered":"<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black \">If interesting wines and delicate samosas are what you\u2019re after, you\u2019ll be very happy here.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black \">Guys, why didn\u2019t you tell me about this place? It\u2019s just my sort of thing. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black \">\n         It is an Indian restaurant as most of us first experienced them &#8211; neither the flash, Cassia-style reinvention of<br \/>\n         the wheel nor the draughty, wooden-everything eateries of Sandringham Rd (of course I love both of these genres too).\n        <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">It is a restaurant with carpet and white tablecloths and neon signage, employing dozens of staff and presided over by an assured couple who\u2019ve been hosting Parnell\u2019s fox fur-draped locals for 32 years.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">It is much more a Wellington sort of restaurant than an Auckland one. I have such happy memories of eating at places like The Curry Club and Tulsi and Great India in the 90s. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Those places did, of course, sacrifice some authenticity to achieve commerciality. (I remember the owner of Tulsi once coming over to welcome our table of 10 and saying, \u201cevening gents, how many Heinekens, and how many butter chickens?\u201d; the answer was 10 of each), but they helped so many of us fall in love with Indian masala.<\/p>\n<p><img  alt=\"The dining room of Oh Calcutta in Parnell. Photo \/ Babiche Martens\" class=\"responsively-lazy\"\/>The dining room of Oh Calcutta in Parnell. Photo \/ Babiche Martens<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Back at Oh Calcutta, they were busy with a big, presumably corporate group of their own when we arrived (sample dialogue \u201cDo you like Westerns?\u201d \u201cNo\u201d), so we had to wait a little longer than expected to get in our drinks order, but after that, the service was swift and elegant. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Their slightly higher menu price point allows them to employ plenty of waiters for the grunt work while the owner, Meena, oversees everyone, as her husband Anand wanders the floor in his white sneakers, kissing babies and pressing the flesh in a manner that would impress his most famous regular, the Right Honourable John Key.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">I enjoyed probably the best gin and tonic I\u2019ve ever had in a restaurant &#8211; the brilliant Little Biddy of Reefton with just a splash of good tonic rather than the industrial quantities usually supplied with this cocktail. The wine list is very decent too, with lots of craft beer and enough interesting wines (there is a section literally called \u201cinteresting wines\u201d) that you\u2019ll find something to love.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">A restaurant that\u2019s been around this long gives you an interesting look at prices over time. A review in the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nzherald.co.nz\/lifestyle\/oh-calcutta-parnell\/XQPEHY7S7M5CITIG4KGPN3WZZ4\/\" target=\"_self\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" title=\"https:\/\/www.nzherald.co.nz\/lifestyle\/oh-calcutta-parnell\/XQPEHY7S7M5CITIG4KGPN3WZZ4\/\">Herald<\/a> from 2005 reported that a bottle of Allan Scott sauvignon blanc cost $34. The slightly more premium Nautilus sauvignon is currently on offer at $45 which seems like very decent management of inflation, particularly given liquor levies in that time have doubled (even tagged to CPI the price should have been $57). <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Food costs are predictably more depressing &#8211; saag gosht is exactly twice as expensive as 20 years ago, while dal makhani has increased by 150%. I hope you enjoyed this rare foray into economic analysis as much as I did.<\/p>\n<p><img  alt=\"The delicate samosas are served with tamarind chutney. Photo \/ Babiche Martens\" class=\"responsively-lazy\"\/>The delicate samosas are served with tamarind chutney. Photo \/ Babiche Martens<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">The food is so very good. There are enough great options here that you could visit three or four times and not run out of things you\u2019re delighted to eat. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">After huge amounts of discussion with my pescatarian dining partner, I chose samosas, onion bhaji, garlic naan, black lentil dahl, paneer curry and mutton (everything is seafood, I told her, if you go back far enough). <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Helpfully, the menu highlights specialties of the house, so if you\u2019re on a first visit like I was, you have a nice little guide &#8211; or you can get the tasting menu and leave all the thinking to them.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">The samosa was much more delicate than the ones you\u2019ll sometimes see in a dairy pie warmer, with none of that telltale pocket of air between filling and pastry. Here it is sliced in two through the middle and served with a tamarind chutney and it\u2019s just perfect. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Onion bhaji is their own take on the classic, with individual pieces of onion battered in chickpea flour, fried until rusty-brown and tossed in moreish spices.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">All three curries were distinct &#8211; the dark meaty gravy of the mutton, the delicately soft paneer in a bright, sweet-savoury sauce and an intensely buttery, smooth dal makhani that was almost a soup. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">The only criticism you could make is that one did feel they\u2019d turned up the butter, cream and sugar to an 11 to appeal to the basic palate. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">This used to always be the way &#8211; and you don\u2019t find it so often now &#8211; the result is indulgent, for sure, but you tend to hate yourself a little bit by the time you eat your final few mouthfuls.<\/p>\n<p><img  alt=\"Oh Calcutta in Parnell. Photo \/ Babiche Martens\" class=\"responsively-lazy\"\/>Oh Calcutta in Parnell. Photo \/ Babiche Martens<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">I should alert you that the low light can make it very difficult to read a menu, but the acoustics are fantastic, thanks to a ceiling makeover a few years ago designed in part to cut down on echoey noise in the dining room. It worked.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Oh Calcutta may not be the hippest place in Auckland, but you don\u2019t survive 32 years by being fashionable. <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">It is simply a restaurant with very high standards, where you feel good as soon as you walk in; where curry-obsessives and butter-chicken eaters can break bread together in a room that will make both feel happy and comfortable.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Address: 149\u2013155 Parnell Rd, Parnell <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Contact: 09 377 9090, ohcalcutta.co.nz <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Hours: Mon closed, Tue\u2013Wed noon\u20139:30pm, Thu noon\u201310pm, Fri noon\u201310:30pm, Sat 5\u201310:30pm, Sun 5\u20139pm <\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">From the menu: Aloo Samosa $14.50, Spiced Onion Bhaji $15, Garlic Naan $7.50, Awadhi Mutton Curry $37, Saag Malai Paneer $35, Kaju Paneer Masala $35.50, House Black Dahl $35<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">Score: 0-7 Steer clear.8-12 Disappointing, give it a miss. 13-15 Good, give it a go. 16-18 Great, plan a visit. 19-20 Outstanding, don\u2019t delay.<\/p>\n<p data-test-ui=\"viva-article-paragraph\" class=\"tw-mb-4 tw-font-proxima tw-text-lg tw-font-normal tw-leading-6 tw-text-black gngXgPCjmfo\">According to dining-out editor Jesse Mulligan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"If interesting wines and delicate samosas are what you\u2019re after, you\u2019ll be very happy here. Guys, why didn\u2019t&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":515316,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[85430,74,138,255946,115150,8455,51500,191,99433,702,2537,2538,111,139,69,14994,763,9979,255947,6100,27300,303,6923,4276,29157,1530,15411,6438],"class_list":["post-515315","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-business","tag-85430","tag-after","tag-business","tag-calcutta","tag-delicate","tag-getting","tag-happy","tag-here","tag-interesting","tag-it","tag-jesse","tag-mulligan","tag-new-zealand","tag-newzealand","tag-nz","tag-oh","tag-reviews","tag-right","tag-samosas","tag-still","tag-theyre","tag-very","tag-what","tag-why","tag-wines","tag-years","tag-youll","tag-youre"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/515315","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=515315"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/515315\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/515316"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=515315"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=515315"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/nz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=515315"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}