Christopher Sharp visited James Martin’s restaurants in the Cotswolds (Image: Christopher Sharp)
James Martin is one of the UK’s most famous chefs with a primetime Saturday TV show every week – but just how good are his meals? To find out, I went for lunch at James’ restaurant – Grill at the Lygon Arms – in the picturesque Cotswolds village of Broadway.
Nestled in the similarly named Lygon Arms hotel, it has a menu curated by the famous Saturday Kitchen host and renowned petrol head. Indeed, the hotel is a mere 50 miles from the home of British motorsport, Silverstone  and around two-and-a-half hours from central London.
On the day I visited, the traffic was clear and so the journey was a little over two hours. Arriving in Broadway the rain had cleared, the car parks were full, and the area was alive with foot traffic. I don’t know what was in the air, but one cafe owner was rushed off his feet from the business he was receiving in the Cotswolds locale.
The exterior of the Lygon Arms (Image: Christopher Sharp)
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Inside the restaurant
The Lygon Arms is situated on the main high street opposite a variety of delis and novelty shops; guests filtered slowly in and out the venue, some to stay, others to eat, a few I’m sure to do both.
To get to the restaurant you enter the hotel, turn stage right, head down a long corridor and are greeted into a large high ceiled arch room. It’s painted in what can almost be described as near Bluebird blue onto seats of light wood and green leather.
I’ve got to be honest, my my overall first impression can best be described in three words – nice but intimidating.
I was greeted by chandeliers that appeared to be made of antlers and shaped into trees; their light colour contrasting with their slight Slytherinity. An unnerving aesthetic choice, but one you can’t help but admire at meal’s end.
The interior of the Lygon Arms (Image: Christopher Sharp)
The aforementioned chandelier made of antlers (Image: Christopher Sharp)
If you’re wondering why it felt intimidating, I guess the best way to describe it is that types of places and situations you’re unfamiliar with will always feel unnerving.
During a period when I wasn’t a journalist, I worked in all kinds of hospitality jobs of various satisfactions, and sometimes it still feels weird turning up somewhere posh and being the served not the server.
The food
Onto the raison d’etre of the visit, the food. I choose a two-course approach with sparkling water but no wine (I was driving) and dove straight in with something I wouldn’t normally stick in my weekly shop, crab.
Specifically, the Cornish Dressed crab with apple, celeriac and lemon, with toasted rye bread.
Christopher Sharp travelled to Broadway to review The Lygon Arms (Image: Christopher Sharp)
What arrived was 90 percent of what was promised with the bread untoasted, but the crab very much as advertised and delicious.
Crab isn’t something I normally consume and so the experience felt rather special as a result as the softness of the flesh melded wonderfully with the celeriac and lemon.
It was light on the palate and I could feel that my body was revelling in the experience of tasting such a dish. The bread tended to smother the flavour of the crab if you combined the two, but I suspect toasted it wouldn’t have.
For the main I ventured to go for something more substantial in the shape of the Blythburgh Farm Pork Chop featuring cider Bramley apple compote, crisp sage, all-butter mash, and roasting juices. With this I opted to add the grilled Hispi cabbage with ranch dressing.
Christopher’s Cornish crab starter (Image: Christopher Sharp)
Hispi cabbage is a type of white cabbage which has pale leaves and a sweet flavour. It was this cabbage, that helped to act as transformative influence of the chop itself.
Pork chops can taste quite plain, but in combination with the greens, cabbage, and associated juices, it was elevated, adding a dose of tanginess and zing to the dish that have otherwise been forgettable.
After this, and with many miles still to travel, I opted against pudding and had a double espresso before paying the bill and heading out into the Friday afternoon sunlight.
The pork chop Christopher consumed (Image: Christopher Sharp)The price
For two dishes, a side, some sparkling water, and a double espresso, the total came to £82.41. The prices were as follows:
Cornish Dressed Crab: £22Blythburgh Farm Pork Chop: £34Roasted Hispi Cabbage: £6Hildon Sparkling Water: £5.50Double espresso: £5.75Service charge: £9.16
Now, for what I had, £82 did send a mild shock through my spine. I know it was a posh restaurant, so it wasn’t exactly going to be cheap, I had gone in with my eyes and stomach open after all.
The biggest surprise was the cost of the double espresso. The food I could forgive, but even considering the plush surroundings, £6 for a double espresso was a step too far.
However, despite the cost, I enjoyed my experience eating at a restaurant that feels at home in its leafy Cotswold surroundings, filled with some villages that embody a vision of Britain’s past, and tell us something about its present too.