Yesterday, Longines truly impressed with the release of the new Spirit Pilot collection, a duo of deeply refined watches that finally gave the aviation-themed collection the right proportions and a cleaner look. Well, it seems that the brand is on a roll, as today it’s another highly appealing watch that we’ll discover. Following the re-edition of the Ultra-Chron Diver in 2022, Longines is now bringing back its first high-frequency watch, the original 1967 Ultra-Chron model. A classic vintage-inspired watch from the much-appreciated Heritage collection, the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic is everything we love about this range: faithful design, modern technical features and proper charm. 

Backgroud

Before exploring the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, let’s briefly look back at the original model and Longines’ involvement in high-frequency watchmaking – a topic that we’ve explored extensively in this article. High-frequency movements (understand by that anything running above the classic 3Hz or 4Hz rate) have long been reserved for pocket watches and timing instruments, the latter often used for sports timing, thanks to their superior precision and their ability to refine the results of a race, for instance.

A vintage example of the original Longines Ultra-Chron high-frequency watch and the automatic Calibre 431 (Circa 1969) – Image by Longines

When it comes to wristwatches, high-frequency movements only appeared after WWII. According to the brand (and to our research), Longines was the first to develop a high-frequency wristwatch movement, in the frame of accuracy competitions and observatory chronometers. This watch, equipped with the Longines Calibre 360, was conceived in 1958 and completed in 1959. This hand-wound movement was beating at 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations/hour and proved to have incredible accuracy, to the point of reaching a daily deviation of around or below 1/10th of a second, during the 1962 accuracy competition at the Observatory of Neuchâtel. This was Longines’ testing ground in order to prepare the next step, commercially available high-frequency wristwatches.

A vintage example of the original Longines Ultra-Chron high-frequency watch (Circa 1969) – Image by Longines

The first of its kind was a Girard-Perregaux, with the 1966 HF models. A year later, Longines presented its first production high-frequency wristwatch, the Ultra-Chron. Obstacles to HF were the reduced power reserve and the deterioration of lubricants. Longines found the solution in the calibre 431 (with patented dry lubrication) and guaranteed an amazing accuracy of one minute a month, or two seconds a day. Being far more accurate than a chronometer-certified by the COSC, the model was named Ultra-Chron (reduced for ultra chronometer). Longines registered the name in October 1966, and the first models arrived on the market in late 1966 or early 1967. This is the very watch that now serves as a source of inspiration for the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic.

The new Ultra-Chron Classic

This new take on the Ultra-Chron is classic Longines Heritage… The recipe, which has been used on multiple occasions by the brand (Legend Diver, Majetek, Avigation, Sector Dial…), is time-tested and works as a charm. The idea is to bring back one of the brand’s classic watches, marginally update the design and upgrade all the rest with modern features. Except that in the context of this Ultra-Chron Classic, Longines has pushed the idea a bit further, with a faithful pair of watches that, of course, retain the most important element of the past model, the high-beat movement.

A quick look at the new Ultra-Chron Classic leaves no doubt on the inspiration, and Longines here presents a modern watch with the look and feel of the original 1967 model. There are some notable changes, however, as the vintage Ultra-Chron measured 35mm in diameter, while the 2025 re-edition is available in two sizes. You can opt for a retro-styled 37mm edition, with a 44.60mm lug-to-lug, or something more modern, at 40mm in diameter and 47.20mm in length. Both measure 10.95mm in thickness.

Design-wise, Longines stays true to the past, with a design that must have felt, back in the days, modernist and angular. The new models retain most of the design elements but adopt modern features, such as a box-shaped sapphire crystal on top. The back is solid steel with the old Ultra-Chron logo and the chronometer certification mention, and water-resistance is rated at 50m – sufficient but nothing exceptional. All in all, a fine watch with either nice or perfect proportions (I’ll give you my personal preference at the end).

Moving to the dial, once again, no major revolution. The new Ultra-Chron classic is basically a 95% accurate carbon copy of the old model, only lightly altered to accommodate the larger proportions. The dial, which is domed and sunray-brushed, has a classic (almost too classic) silver colour. Thankfully, the applied faceted hour markers and hands are filled with black lacquer (as the vintage model), giving a bit of character to the dial. But that also means no luminescence. Apart from a date window positioned further away from the edge of the dial and an additional twelfth applied marker next to it, all the rest is legit: crosshair in the centre, trapezoidal date window, faithful applied Ultra-Chron and Longines logos, and vintage typeface all-round.

The finishing touch is a multi-link stainless steel bracelet – 19mm lug width for the 37mm version, and 21mm for the 40mm edition. This brushed and polished, retro-shaped bracelet pairs nicely with the vintage style of the whole watch and is equipped with a practical micro-adjustable folding clasp. Alternatively, you can opt for a black alligator strap with a steel pin buckle.

A high-frequency, high-precision movement

A Longines Ultra-Chron wouldn’t be an Ultra-Chron without a fast beating, highly precise movement inside… The 2025 Longines Ultra-Chron Classic relies on the same automatic Calibre L836.6 that was inaugurated on the Ultra-Chron Diver in 2022, later used in the Carbon edition. This movement is a heavily modified ETA base, exclusive to Longines, with an increased frequency now at 5Hz (or 36,000 vibrations/hour). It is fitted with an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and has a running time of 52 hours when fully wound. Instead of being COSC certified, which was perhaps to be expected, it’s certified by TimeLab Geneva and is labelled as an ultra-chronometer (hence the watch’s name).

Unlike conventional certification processes, which test only the movement, this timepiece achieves full chronometer certification from the Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève, represented by the TIMELAB foundation. In keeping with the ISO 3159 standard, the qualification process subjects the finished watch to a rigorous 15-day testing period, during which the entire assembled timepiece undergoes functional tests in various positions at three different temperatures (8°C, 23°C, and 38°C) to verify its accuracy.

Thoughts & Price

All in all, the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic is yet another very appealing vintage recreation by Longines of one of its greatest hits. The watch is nicely executed, modern where it counts, faithful where it matters and does pay tribute to the brand’s rich past in chronometry, with its highly precise and highly certified automatic movement. Design-wise, it isn’t the most striking watch the brand has introduced in the past few years, but that’s also what makes the charm of the Ultra-Chron Classic. It is… classic, and classic is good too.

The 40mm version on leather strap (wrist size: 18cm)

Now, time for some consumer advice. I know that everyone has their own preferences when it comes to size and looks, but I strongly believe that the right pick in the collection is the 37mm version on steel bracelet. Why? First of all, the watch wears much nicer in this compact case (whatever your wrist size), and looks much better too. The smaller case is more consistent with the overall spirit of the watch and, due to the simple display and the position of the date window, appears more structured too.

The 40mm version on steel bracelet (wrist size: 18cm)

Second, while there’s nothing wrong with the leather strap, it looks a bit sterile and plain. The steel bracelet has true charm and is practical too, thanks to its comfort release. And it only adds 100 euros to the final bill. So, even if you want to wear this Ultra-Chron Classic on a leather strap, pick up the steel bracelet and get an additional leather strap of your choice afterwards. You’ll thank me later.

The 37mm version on leather strap (wrist size: 18cm)

The Longines Ultra-Chron Classic will be available in October 2025 as part of the permanent collection. It is priced at EUR 3,850 or CHF 3,300 on steel bracelet, and EUR 3,750 or CHF 3,200 on leather strap. For more details, consult www.longines.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/2025-longines-ultra-chron-classic-reedition-1967-high-frequency-watch-37mm-40mm-price-review/