The Conwy Valley in northwest Wales proudly boasts the highest concentration of utterly hideous climbs anywhere in the British Isles. That’s right – more than the Lakes, more even than the North York Moors. The sheer abundance of absolute killer roads on either side of the small, snaking river between Conwy in the north and Llanrwst in the south make it just about the perfect place for utterly destroying your legs.
The one minor downside is that half of the climbs – the ones on the western flank of the valley – are dead-ends. If, like me, you prefer your rides to be nice, flowing loops with no turning back, the nature of these roads will seriously clash with your route-plotting Feng Shui. Don’t let this put you off, though, as the challenges you will face and the stories you will be able to tell later make this a must-ride destination.
The long route, starting and finishing at Llandudno
(Image credit: Future)
Longer route:
Distance: 105km (65.2miles)
Elevation: 2,611m (8,520ft)
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Being the longer of our two routes, it might surprise you that this one is only 105km – but trust me, it will rank among the hardest you’ve ever tackled. Just glance at the profile: like the teeth of an upturned rake. The route eases you in gently from Llandudno, heading west along the bikepath beside the North Wales Expressway into Dwygyfylchi. It may seem an around-the-houses way to start – we’re not yet in the Conwy Valley – but believe me, the road you’re aiming for justifies every detour needed to reach it. From Dwygyfylchi, you swing east and begin the day’s climbing on the glorious Sychnant Pass, whose beautiful, curving inclines provide the perfect warm-up before the far more savage challenges to come.
Dropping south into the valley, you ride to Tal-y-bont and turn right for the first of the day’s three max-difficulty climbs: Cwm Eigiau. This utterly unforgiving dead-end road pitches you abruptly into the heart of Snowdonia National Park. Once you’ve summited, you turn around, drop back into the valley, and steel yourself for Afon Du. Blink and you’ll miss its base opposite a small car park – but don’t, because what lies ahead borders on madness.
Simon Warren is a hill climb expert best known for his 100 Greatest Climbs series of books that covers the best cycling climbs from all over the world.
Officially (I measured it myself) it’s the second-hardest climb in the UK, narrowly beaten by Bamford Clough. At 700m-long, it averages 22% and ramps up remorselessly. No photos accompany this one – that’s because I wasn’t willing to risk riding it again, after the last time I did, I snapped a pedal clean in half, which was enough to make me swear I’d never risk my bike or my knees on its evil slopes again.
If you reach the top, descend with extreme care, as it’s lethal, before continuing south to Trefriw and the mighty Cowlyd. Out of the frying pan and into the fire, this is one of Britain’s great roads: a true giant stitched with hairpins and more 20%-plus ramps than you could dream of (or have nightmares about). An undisputed classic. At the top you may crave a breather in the peace and quiet, or perhaps at a cafe back in Llanrwst, before facing yet another bout of brutality: Melin y Coed begins so unrelentingly steep that you’ll question your life choices more than once. Mercifully, only a couple of climbs remain. First, just for good measure, the rise from Llanrwst up and around Pen-Bryn-Ddoged, and then, after the long, uneventful return to Llandudno, a fitting finale: the glorious hairpins of the Great Orme.
(Image credit: Andy Jones)
10 best climbs in the Conwy Valley
1 Rowan YHA
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/27339622
KOM: Sam Stewart-Ball, 7:42
QOM: Kelly M, 16:32
Length: 1,589m
Elevation: 185m
Average gradient: 11%
Max gradient: 28%
It’s just as well there are beds at the top because you may want to check in when you get there. The most northerly of the ‘Conwy killers’, this dead-end to the youth hostel saves its hardest, 28% ramp for last.
2 Afon Ddu
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/27339644
KOM: Kieran Wynne-Cattanach, 4:55
QOM: Jess E, 8:55
Length: 691m
Elevation: 156m
Average gradient: 22%
Max gradient: 31%
Until Bamford Clough entered the conversation, this little road held the title of the steepest in Britain. Getting up it without stopping takes a Herculean effort, unless you are on a mountain bike with incredibly small gears – which of course is cheating!
(Image credit: Andy Jones)
3 The Cowlyd
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/19678560
KOM: Ed Laverack, 12:33
QOM: Illi Gardner, 15:26
Length: 2,912m
Elevation: 378m
Average gradient: 12%
Max gradient: 20%
The Cowlyd is the king of the Conwy Valley, the climb that everyone comes to ride. With its stack of hairpins, its utterly relentless 20% gradients and of course the complete solitude of its empty summit, this is a place where you can scream to your heart’s content!
4 Bwlch-y-Ddeufaen
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/19678618
KOM: Dan Evans, 17:36
QOM: Illi Gardner, 20:59
Length: 5,459m
Elevation: 400m
Average gradient: 7%
Max gradient: 20%
Of the two climbs that leave Tal-y-bont, this is the easier. How can a 5.5km climb with slopes that touch 20% be easy, you ask? Well, compared to its neighbour the Cwm Eigiau, it’s just a puppy.
5 Cwm Eigiau
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/2113971
KOM: Dan Evans, 13:52
QOM: Illi Gardner, 14:58
Length: 3,604m
Elevation: 348m
Average gradient: 9%
Max gradient: 25%
Heading to the lake located at its eventual summit, this road is almost as brutal as the dreaded Cowlyd – almost. Packed with 25% bends, it’s all-out war on your legs for well over three kilometres until you can finally relax in the emptiness of the mountains.
(Image credit: Andy Jones)
6 Grinllwm
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/19678672
KOM: Aiden O’Leary, 5:58
QOM: Illi Gardner, 6:50
Length: 1,391m
Elevation: 160m
Average gradient: 11%
Max gradient: 25%
This little killer out the back of Trefriw packs a solid punch right from the get-go. Be ready in your smallest gear and tighten your shoes as it ramps up to 25% almost immediately before twisting into the tree covered hillside.
7 Nebo Road
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/19678656
KOM: Sam Stewart-Ball, 13:12
QOM: Illi Gardner, 16:13
Length: 5,508m
Elevation: 282m
Average gradient: 5%
Max gradient: 9%
At last, a nice steady climb. The Nebo Road is a delight to ride: five beautiful kilometres of 5% gradient which never breach double figures as the road sedately makes its way out of the valley.
8 Melin y Coed
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/27339739
KOM: Kieran Wynne-Cattanach, 12:32
QOM: Illi Gardner, 16:46
Length: 3,131m
Elevation: 316m
Average gradient: 10%
Max gradient: 20%
No one in their right mind would choose this road over the sedate slopes of the Nebo Road next door. This one is torture: ramp after ramp of 20% leads to brow after brow.
9 Fford Llwyn Du
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/27339634
KOM: Jack Broadley, 7:29
QOM: Jess E, 14:21
Length: 1,624m
Elevation: 186m
Average gradient: 11%
Max gradient: 19%
Yet another climb with a double-digit average, this one hits you with three brutal ramps of stiff gradient – bang, bang, bang! One of a multitude of nasty ascents up the eastern side of the valley, it will keep you trapped in purgatory on its sinuous hedge-lined course from base to summit.
10 Sychnant Pass
Strava segment: strava.com/segments/19678542
KOM: Dan Evans, 5:19
QOM: Illi Gardner, 6:02
Length: 1,840m
Elevation: 147m
Average gradient: 7%
Max gradient: 17%
Not all the climbs in the region can be savage. Thankfully, there are a few like this beautiful twisting ascent, which, although touching 17% in places, is far more manageable than its near neighbours.
(Image credit: Andy Jones)
Shorter route: Grinllwm and bear it
Distance: 91.2km (56.7miles)
Elevation: 2,120m (6,955ft)
Spreading the killer climbs across two routes, this slightly shorter loop starts from Llandudno and makes a beeline for Rowen, where the truly evil road to the youth hostel awaits. Grind your way up, and when you finally crest the summit-lungs on fire, legs screaming – take a moment to breathe in something other than your own desperation. Then turn tail, swoop back into the valley, and head towards Llanbedr-y-Cennin for your next date with pain: the 5.5km Bwlch-y-Ddeufaen.
Once you’ve conquered it, it’s another about-turn and a welcome cruise back to the valley for a much-needed breather all the way to Trefriw. But respite never lasts long here. A brief diversion from the valley floor sends you ramping skywards on the Grinllwm, before you plummet back to Llanrwst – a perfect pitstop location – and steel yourself for the comparatively forgiving Nebo Road.
This climb carries you to the southernmost tip of the loop, from where a long, satisfying descent swings you back to Llanrwst. But don’t be lulled into thinking it’s over. The final monster still lies ahead. The infamous Fford Llwyn Du will drain the last of your reserves, but once you’ve crested it, the suffering is done. All that’s left is a triumphant roll back to Llandudno for a well-earned ice cream.
(Image credit: Andy Jones)
Key Information
Where to stay
Both routes start and finish on the coast in Llandudno, which, as you would expect from one of Wales’s most popular seaside resorts, is packed to the gills with hotels and restaurants to suit all budgets.
Accommodation
If you fancy some luxury, check into the four-star Victorian grandeur of the Imperial Hotel on the seafront. If you’re on a tighter budget, there is a plethora of bed-and-breakfasts and smaller hotels to choose from.
Food and drink
You’ll find something to suit any taste in Llandudno, from fine dining to fast food – and of course classic fish and chips from Chish’n’fips or ice cream from Forte’s.
What else to see and do
If you like castles, pencil In a visit to the Impressive Conwy Castle. A UNESCO world heritage site, it offers a fascinating glimpse into the past. For tram enthusiasts, check out the Great Orme Tramway.