Further south in Ceredigion, the Chuckling Goat shows how much the sector has grown.
The family-run farm produces goat’s milk kefir, a fermented dairy drink rich in live bacteria.
It expanded rapidly during the pandemic and now supplies more than 120,000 customers across the UK.
The business has also diversified into microbiome testing, offering personalised dietary advice based on gut health.
Co-director Shann Jones, a self-described “American city girl who fell in love with a Welsh farmer”, says she discovered kefir when her son Benji developed eczema and bronchial issues after being given repeated rounds of antibiotics to treat infections.
In 2008, her husband Richard suggested they buy a goat as their milk is known for being hypoallergenic and good for asthma, eczema and bronchial issues.
They ended up with Buddug, a black and white Anglo Nubian with long floppy ears.
“The goat’s milk did help with Benji’s bronchial infections. But then there was too much goat’s milk,” Shann said.
By chance, she heard a Russian doctor talking about kefir on the radio, and the rest is history.
In Conwy, kombucha producer Blighty Booch has also seen demand rise and says there is a strong consumer appetite for Welsh-made products.
Founder Mark Pavey believes fermented foods were gradually pushed out of everyday diets by convenience food and supermarket economics and sees them as the “missing link”.
Mark makes his craft kombucha from high-quality tea and is proud of the flavour.
“Supermarkets have side-lined properly fermented products in favour of cheap, shelf stable, ultra processed options,” he said.