The lap of luxury (Picture: Mel Evans)
I’m sitting in a 15th-century drawing room, a frightfully large portrait of Catherine Parr looming over me, as I smear clotted cream on a scone and add a lemon wedge to my water.
It’s awfully Bridgerton, but for a few blissful days, I’m part of the Upstairs lot.
To add to the vibes, a fire crackles as blissed-out patrons float past in fluffy white robes, fresh from the spa. Or perhaps the sauna. Or maybe they’re returning after enjoying a glass or two of Taittinger in the hot tub.
I’ve shunned a more ‘traditional’ babymoon (insofar as babymoons can be traditional) on a Spanish beach for a staycation in the Cotswolds, inside the wood panelled-walls of Ellenborough Park.
The sprawling 90-acre estate, which borders Cheltenham racecourse, dates back 500 years to 1485, when tenant farmer Thomas Goodman built his house here, block by sandstone block.
This ‘house’ – then known as Southam House – would later come to be known as Ellenborough Park.
The main hall, with many of its original features; look at that ceiling! (Picture: Ellenborough Park)
Despite having many landlords since the 1400s (including the De la Bere family, who came over with William the Conquerer), the farmer’s original coat of arms can still be seen on the front door.
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This piece of history holds strong alongside musket holes believed to be from the English Civil War. It’s claimed one came from Oliver Cromwell himself.
The place has been meticulously restored to its original glory. The OG set of stairs is still used to sweep guests up to their rooms, while the original stained glass windows commemorating Henry VI and Elizabeth of York have also survived the centuries.
It’s not every day you can enjoy a nightcap or a game of Chess in a room with so much history.
The main building was built in 1485 (Picture: Ellenborough Park)
History doesn’t get more luxurious than this
The hotel – which has been Ellenborough Park since 2010 – is deliciously five-star.
As soon as you enter the grounds, you’re greeted by manicured lawns, a Taittinger Terrace and a sandstone facade that’s survived 500 years at the foot of Cleeve Hill.
And that’s before we’ve even checked in.
The suite of dreams (Picture: Ellenborough Park)
Upstairs, it’s ye olde world glamour fit for kings and queens.
There are four-poster beds and clawfoot bathtubs; red, fabric couches and lots (lots) of dark, stained wood. Underfloor heating and a mattress that gave me one of the best pregnancy sleeps I’ve ever had.
This is a hotel where things are done right, from the a nightly turn-down service to the private entry for the racecourse, and staff devoted to making your stay as comfortable (and exclusive) as possible.
That goes beyond Ellenborough’s human guests, too. There is a self-serve, outdoor Paw Spa on site for your four-legged pals to scrub up and grab a treat before dinner.
The pool was perfect for an early-spring dip (Picture: Ellenborough Park)
Food fit for royalty
Dining in one of the two eateries on site – the Horse Box Brasserie or the Restaurant – means you need not leave the hotel, really, at any time.
I tucked into a starter of King prawns, seasoned with soy, lime, chilli and garlic (£10) before a main of creamy Cep risotto with a giant king oyster mushroom nestled in the middle and lashings of parmesan (£24).
I can’t go past a sticky toffee pudding, so we shared one with an arty brandy snap and clotted cream ice cream (£10) to finish. A special mention for the non-alcoholic strawberry and elderflower concoction whipped up by the bartender to appease this preggo’s thirst.
Even breakfast was a grand affair (Picture: Mel Evans)
Food and dogs and mocktails are all well and good, but it was upon entering the Dubarry Boot Room that I truly appreciated the grandeur of the hotel.
Like Charlie entering Willy Wonka’s factory, my Golden Ticket to the designated (and highly protected) room revealed rows of Dubarry and Hunter boots, pricey waterproofs and gilets and a croquet set should you feel so inclined to run some hoops.
There for hotel guests to borrow in case they’ve left their wellies at home (or, like me, your Decathlon pair in your room upstairs…), how quickly I accepted a world of posh Cotswolds fare, stomping around the fields in £700 worth of boots and jacket.
Boot room of wonders (Picture: Ellenborough Park)
Sure, the whole time I was anxiously reminding myself to return them before dusk, or risk the value of the goods being added to my room bill, but… the charm, I tell you.
Even in the chilly days of spring, an outdoor dip wasn’t out of the question thanks to the hotel’s outdoor pool heated to what they claim to be a balmy 28 degrees.
While I didn’t bring my thermometer and I’m slightly dubious it was that warm, it was a delight to float around outside, surrounded by daffodils as steam billowed off the surface into the March air.
A stomp in my Dubarry (Picture: Mel Evans)
It’s the little things (that are really not that so little)
The hotel really knows how to make guests feel special. Through a partnership with nearby Bicester Village, the concierge booked us into a VIP shopping experience for a detour on our drive back home.
A simple call and 90-minute drive later, we arrived at the invitation-only Apartment, where we relaxed over a chai tea (for me) and a craft beer (for the husband) before taking on the famous designer outlet mall.
If we were there to spend some serious dosh, a personal shopper and designated bag holder could’ve also been organised. Dear reader, we were not.
Judging by the number of people I saw going between the main hall of the hotel and the spa in their fluffy, white robes, I get the feeling people come for the treatments and stay for the hospitality.
Don’t swerve the town
It may be hard to drag yourself away from Ellenborough, but I was surprisingly delighted by Cheltenham town.
We ventured in for an afternoon, popping into Society Cafe for coffee and sweet treats before walking along the Promenade to the leafy Montpelier area.
Here, I stopped in at local favourite For The Saints, nabbing a sausage roll and focaccia to go and grab a bench in Montpelier Gardens for a spot of people watching.
Pregnancy and swings may not mix, but the outlook was superb (Picture: Mel Evans)
For an early dinner, we had our eyes on The Vine, which has a Thai kitchen boasting to be the ‘best’ in town. According to our barman, people have driven from Wales to get a takeaway.
After going for a chicken pad thai and beef spicy noodles, I concur the fare is fabulous.
Would I drive hours for it? I don’t think I’d drive hours for any meal, but, if you manage to catch the Early Bird specials, it’s a bargain, with mains setting you back £12.95. So, what you save on meal you can put on petrol, I suppose…
I was impressed with the non-alc selection (their alc selection also looked well stocked). They even had a proper 0.0% cider in the fridge. Cheers!
Returning to my room, belly full and duvet expertly turned down, I figure this stay-at-home babymoon thing really suits me.
Getting to Ellenborough Park
By car: Ellenborough Park is located just outside Cheltenham in the heart of the Cotswolds, around a two-hour drive from London. We broke up our trip with a short stay in Burford at charming BnB Pytts House.
The hotel sits just off the A435 and is easily accessible from the M5 (Junction 11), with free on-site parking.
By train: The nearest station is Cheltenham Spa railway station, which is well connected to London Paddington with direct services taking roughly two hours. From there, it’s a 10-minute taxi to the hotel.
By air: Birmingham Airport is the closest major airport (around 1 hour 20 minutes by car), while Heathrow Airport is approximately a two-hour drive.
Room rates at Ellenborough Park start from £269 per night for a double room on a B&B basis.
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