Duck is one of Moffat’s favourite things on the menu for its taste and sustainability (he buys whole birds directly from a farm). One portion of duck at Winsome costs the diner £42. “That’s the absolute minimum we can charge,” he says, listing VAT, rent, staff wages, utilities and business rates. If he were to price the dish profitably, he says: “It would have to be about £52 – that would be for me to be able to have any profit to put in the bank for a rainy day when something breaks or we’re quiet.” At “full” price, with one side, plus service charge of 12.5%, the duck main course would be £65.50. “For me, I think it’s worth it,” Moffat says, “but then again that’s more than four hours’ work for someone [on minimum wage].”