Fashion designer Bob Mackie, whose nicknames included the ‘Sultan of Sequins’ and the ‘Guru of Glitter’, has died aged 87.
Over his lengthy career, Mackie dressed the likes of Cher, Dolly Parton, Tina Turner, Diana Ross, Sir Elton John, Miley Cyrus, Zendaya and more.
His death was announced on his Instagram page, with the statement saying: “He lived his 87 years to the fullest, fulfilling his dream of being a Fashion and Costume Designer, which is all he ever wanted to do.
“His genius and extraordinary designs will live on forever, continuing to bring beauty into this world.”
Mackie started working in costume design in 1961, racking up nine Emmy awards over his career. He first met singer Cher in 1967 on The Carol Burnett Show, going on to forge one of his longest-standing relationships – he became a costume designer for The Sonny & Cher Comedy Hour, and later continued to design some of Cher’s most memorable outfits.
In a post on X Cher said: “My dear Bob has gone up to heaven, knowing him he’s bringing sequins, beads and his sketch pad.
“Good night sweet prince.”
These are some of Mackie’s most glamorous designs, from the Seventies to the end of his career…
1. Cher in bugle beads
Cher in a Bob Mackie creation in 1978 (Alamy/PA)
Cher was photographed in this bugle-beaded dress in 1978, and it soon became a Mackie signature, with plenty of sequins, movement and a fiery yellow and red colour scheme.
Dubbed the ‘flame dress’, a version was also worn by Tina Turner – who paired it with an extravagant cape of bright orange feathers – and it was later worn by Beyonce to perform at the 2005 Kennedy Center Honors.
2. Cher at the Oscars
Cher at the 1986 Oscars (Alamy/PA)
Mackie’s most memorable design arguably also belonged to Cher, worn to the 1986 Academy Awards.
It was an over-the-top, showgirl-inspired outfit with a theatrical mohawk headdress, with Cher’s signature midriff-baring silhouette. With a low-slung skirt and crop top with jagged edges and lattice detailing, the look was embellished with sequins and tassels, and remains one of the most daring and iconic Oscars looks of all time.
3. Dolly Parton’s ‘butterfly dress’
Dolly Parton in the ‘butterfly dress’ (Alamy/PA)
When singer Dolly Parton died in August, Mackie shared on Instagram that she was “a joy and pleasure to dress”, and the two often worked together.
His exuberant, glittering designs suited Parton’s style, and one of his earliest – and most memorable – collaborations came in 1979. Dubbed the ‘butterfly dress’, Parton wore it for the TV special Dolly & Carol In Nashville, where she performed alongside another of Mackie’s muses, Carol Burnett.
The winged butterfly-inspired dress had sequins aplenty, with draped sleeves and gold accents on a black backdrop.
4. Anya Taylor-Joy in archival Bob Mackie
Anya Taylor-Joy wore archival Bob Mackie in 2020 (Alamy/PA)
In recent years, stars have been dipping into Mackie’s archives, as vintage fashion sees a resurgence on the red carpet. In 2020, actor Anya Taylor-Joy wore an archival Mackie dress to the LA premiere of her movie Emma – an adaptation of Jane Austen’s novel.
The empire silhouette was a clever nod to the Regency era of the book, and was given that Mackie sparkle with plenty of intricate beading.
5. Zendaya in vibrant gown
Zendaya at the 2022 Time 100 Gala (Alamy/PA)
Zendaya is another star who has worn vintage Mackie on the red carpet, leaning into an Old Hollywood aesthetic for the 2022 Time 100 Gala.
While the dress had a surprising lack of sequins, it was still full of Mackie’s signature glamour with a luxe teal, turquoise and black patchwork design – complemented by Zendaya’s matching turquoise eyeshadow.
And it’s not the only time Zendaya has dipped into Mackie’s archives. For the 2024 Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Induction Ceremony, where she was paying tribute to Cher, the actor stepped out in a daring gold criss-crossed cut-out gown and poker straight long hair – the perfect homage to Cher’s style.
6. Sabrina Carpenter in Madonna’s Mackie
Sabrina Carpenter at the 2024 MTV Video Music Awards (Alamy/PA)
Singer Sabrina Carpenter made a splash at the 2024 MTV Video Music Awards in glittering white strapless archival Bob Mackie gown with silver detailing.
Madonna and Michael Jackson at the 1991 Academy Awards
This was the same Bob Mackie creation Madonna wore to the 1991 Oscars – and Carpenter styled it similarly to Madonna, with a diamond necklace, loose curls and a red lip.
7. Marilyn Monroe’s controversial ‘Happy Birthday, Mr. President’ gown
Arguably the original ‘naked’ dress, when Monroe stepped out at the to sing a breathy rendition of ‘Happy Birthday’ to President John F Kennedy, it caused a stir that rippled across decades. It was designed by Mackie when he was just 22 years old and working for Hollywood costume designer Jean Louis.
Made from a nude illusion fabric and covered with over 2,400 rhinestones, it remains one of the most iconic pieces of clothing in recent history. It even went on display in Ireland, at the Newbridge at the Museum of Style Icons, in late 2016.
The dress experienced a second wave of controversy in 2022 when Kim Kardashian wore the dress to the Met Gala, prompting outrage from many fashion lovers and concern from conservationists.
8. Tina Turner’s ‘wings’ bodysuit
Turner and Mackie enjoyed a long and fruitful collaboration over their careers, too, with Mackie designing many of the pop powerhouse’s most iconic looks. Mackie wanted to showcase Turner’s figure at all times, telling the New York Times in an interview that when designing for her you “couldn’t cover anything up” as her legs were just “too beautiful”.
Mackie also worked on an design that would come to feel representative of Turner’s personal transformation.
Speaking to RTÉ Lifestyle ahead of the exhibition of Mackie’s designs at the Museum of Style Icons in Newbridge last year, Martin Nolan, the Co-Founder and Executive Director of Julien’s Auction, pointed to the gold and silver bodysuit Mackie designed for Tina Turner (above) in the years after her breakup from her abusive and controlling husband Ike Turner.
He explained how Tina said to Mackie that she felt like she was ‘ getting her wings back’.
9. Miley Cyrus’s rock n’ roll performance at the Grammy’s
Another star to dip into Mackie’s archives is Miley Cyrus, who turned to the designer for some eye-catching outfits befitting a bold reimagining of her image.
Taking to the stage at the 66th Grammy Awards in 2024, Cyrus brought the stadium to life in a bejewelled disco-inspired mini dress, with multicolour beads and shimmering fringe.