Cast your mind back to 2012, when a Jack Wills hoodie and pair of New Look jeggings were the height of fashion.
Trend-savvy teens would flock to the high street to get their hands on the latest peplum dresses, skinny jeans and branded tote bags – while refusing to step foot in the ‘grannyish’ Marks & Spencer next door.
Indeed, just a few years ago M&S‘s own CEO admitted their clothing was associated with a certain ‘frumpiness’ – the retail giant best known for its comfortable underwear.
But the tables appear to have turned.
M&S has officially been declared ‘cool’ by Gen Z shoppers on social media, while New Look has been branded ‘Old Look’ and the likes of Jack Wills and Superdry are considered ‘not really cool anymore’.
As of October, New Look has been forced to shut 13 stores in the UK this year (with a further 28 closing in the Republic of Ireland), marking another blow to Britain’s struggling high streets.
Fashion expert Rochelle White pinned the chain’s downfall on its failure to maintain ‘young brand energy’, ignoring trends and instead favouring more ‘traditional’ looks and feels.
She also cited TikTok and influencer culture – in which consumers are able to shop directly from their favourite content creators – resulting in some high street retailers being seen as ‘old lady brands’.
On the contrary, M&S’s success has been put down to its focus on trends and faster fashion approach, catering to a younger audience without neglecting its old one.
One woman posted a video on TikTok titled, ‘Does anyone shop in New Look anymore?’
Another person posted a video on TikTok showcasing ‘New Look abominations’ she found in store
A dress in New Look, which made one customer question, ‘who would wear that?’
Dozens of fashionistas have taken to social media to point out New Look’s downfall, with one branding it ‘Old Look’.
One woman on TikTok, who filmed herself visiting New Look to look for holiday clothes, said: ‘When was the last time you said to someone, “I like your skirt – where’s that from?” and she said, “New Look!”.
‘Said no one for a long time.’
She then pointed to a green and white patterned frock, and asked: ‘I mean come on, who’s going to wear a dress like that?’
Picking up another gown, she added: ‘And who is going to wear this? Why is it even taking space – why is it hanging up? My nan wouldn’t even wear that.
‘Has New Look gone for the older people?’
Another woman visiting the shop said: ‘Let’s have a look around New Look, let’s see what abominations we can find.
Pointing to a long gingham gown, she said: ‘What in the Anne of f****** Green Gables is that? You too, for £35.99, can look like a massive, oversized British primary school kid.’
Walking over to a selection of collared jumpers, she said: ‘This section is giving I’m a retired Geography teacher.
‘Why are those mannequins looking like actual grumpy old men?’
Commenting on the video, one person wrote: ‘What has happened with UK clothes shops? Such low effort and minimum style. New Look now resembles a retirement home. WTF!’
Another penned: ‘Who designed this stuff? It’s like a pensioner’s charity shop.’
Stylist and Creative Director Ms White said New Look has arguably become associated with ‘the old/ parent vibe’, claiming they have failed to keep up with the trends and the speed at which they come and go.
One video, titled ‘POV: It’s 2009 and you’ve got the ultimate fit’, shows a woman dressed in a bright pink Jack Wills hoodie and jeggings
Ms White told the Daily Mail: ‘In regards to New Look, they have always been seen as teen-led and trendy, but over the years they’ve started to fall behind in regards to relatability and cultural relevance.
‘They haven’t evolved and understood consumers, especially Zillienials and Gen Z. The fashion cycles and what consumers look for and the speed at which they look for it, New Look just haven’t kept up as quickly as they could have.’
She added: ‘New look could be seen seen as behind in trends. They are still very much traditional looks and feels.
‘They don’t inspire the younger consumer with items, styles or trends. There is a clear lack of understanding [of] the generational gap and maybe why younger consumers look at New Look in that way.’
Ms White also blamed TikTok and influencer culture for New Look’s struggle, explaining the way customers shop online results in the brand being disregarded as an ‘old lady brand’.
‘With consumers being able to shop directly from their favourite content Creators and influencers, [it] results in many high street retailers including New Look feeling older or seen as “Old lady brands”,’ she said.
‘[Young people] aren’t inspired by the brand and no doubt that is why they associate it with the old/ parent vibe.’
Earlier this year, New Look announced a £30million investment to fund the next phase of its shift to digital growth.
Part of this investment supported the development of New Look’s first loyalty scheme, Club New Look, which has around 700,000 members.
New Look is continuing to invest in select store locations, including in Manchester.
Jack Wills is another struggling high street chain, having peaked in popularity in the 2010s with its branded hoodies, T-shirts and tote bags.
The chain has closed multiple stores this year in yet another devastating blow to Britain’s high streets.
Jack Wills was bought out of administration by the owner of Sports Direct and House of Fraser in 2019.
Another woman took to social media to say, ‘genuinely not saw anyone wear Superdry in years’
UK fashion influencer Gemma Talbot (pictured) is among the Gen Z’ers shopping at M&S following the brand’s style overhaul
UK-based Alice Spearing (pictured) took to Instagram to tell her followers that she is ‘obsessed’ with M&S clothes
Maddy Evans (pictured), the former fashion director of Topshop, was hired in 2019 as head of buying and promoted to director of womenswear in 2022
The company’s workforce was reduced from 233 to 135 in the 12 months leading up to 28 April, 2024, while the number of operational stores dropped from 32 to 24, as reported by City AM.
As a result, Jack Wills’ pre-tax profit fell from £10.1million to £4.9million over the same period.
Several TikTok stars have posted videos mocking the retailer by dressing up in the trendy early 2000s style.
One video, titled ‘POV: It’s 2009 and you’ve got the ultimate fit’, shows a woman dressed in a bright pink Jack Wills hoodie and jeggings.
Meanwhile, Superdry – once an iconic brand raking in £1.7billion a year with its garments being worn by the likes of David Beckham and Idris Elba – has also been struggling in recent years.
The high street fashion giant has been fighting to stay afloat and ward off the threat of administration, it was reported last year.
Stock trader Michael Taylor, of Shifting Shares, said previously: ‘Superdry has failed because it hasn’t adapted its brand to a new audience and the turnaround has taken too long.
‘It’s the same old tat since when I wore it as a teenager, new designs are the same, tacky logos splashed on clothing. It’s currently burning around £1million a week.’
There are currently 75 Superdry stores in the UK, down from 87 earlier this year.
In recent years, Superdry’s hoodies and T-shirts with their bold logos and Japanese writing have increasingly been seen as a ‘dad brand’.
However, there were reports last year that Superdry could be becoming cool again, after founder Julian Dunkerton pledged to reinvent the brand to attract Gen Z customers.
The brand has been targeting influencers, with some embracing the new era by posting shopping hauls and ‘outfit checks’ from the suffering retailer.
Influencer Felina Chiara (pictured) filmed herself in an M&S in London trying on new items of clothing
One UK-based content creator, who goes by @babeilous, questioned whether she had got ‘seriously old’ for liking the clothes in M&S
Explaining how brands could improve their situation, expert Ms White said they need to improve their personal identity and become more culturally relevant.
‘New Look haven’t done anything wrong, they have just failed to position themselves in this fast changing retail space and really nailing and understanding consumer behaviour and younger consumers like Gen Z,’ she said.
‘They don’t have the clarity and lack the insight to really drive this forward. They have sadly ended up in the middle market and lack the excitement and drive to be relatable.’
Ms White added: ‘New Look could change this, if they take the time to understand where they want to be positioned and rebuild the brands personality, make it more culturally relevant, work with Creators and Influencers that their target audience would know and recognise and creating strong campaigns that resonate.
‘They could even do limited capsule collections and strong strategic partnerships.’
Meanwhile, the once ‘frumpy’ M&S has introduced unmistakably on-trend items lining the racks to tempt both younger buyers and millennial women who are very much invested in looking good.
It has also boasted celebrity collaborations with the likes of Sienna Miller and former Made in Chelsea star Binky Felstead.
The brand’s growing success lies largely with Maddy Evans, the former fashion director of Topshop, who was hired in 2019 as head of buying and promoted to director of womenswear in 2022.
Her presence has helped M&S fill the crucial gap left by what was one of the most high street’s most popular brands by offering must-have pieces such as a faux croc leather trench coat that was last month rapidly selling out and being re-stocked.
It’s also adopted a faster fashion approach, meaning new items can move from the drawing board to the shelf in as little as a month – enabling the retailer to react to demand and the newest trends.
Speaking to the Daily Mail, Ms Evans said: ‘We’re pleased to see womenswear achieve its highest ever style rankings, particularly with the 35-54 customer – a clear sign our focus is landing and our ranges are resonating with more people more often.
‘It’s important that we keep up momentum so this season we’re supercharging newness across the board: from dresses and partywear through to denim, knitwear and outerwear. We’re investing in fabrics, silhouettes and trend-led pieces our customers want; while still delivering the value they trust us for.’
The Daily Mail has contacted Jack Wills and Superdry for comment.