Stay at the Old Course Hotel – The local hotel scene has really upped its game over the last few years. My favourite bolthole, the Old Course Hotel, has just undergone a massive revamp. The Kohler Waters Spa is now one of Scotland’s best with a superb signature massage, a dedicated spa swimming pool and a thermal circuit with a sauna, steam room, plunge pool and spa pool. It’s worth staying in for dinner at the Road Hole, with St Andrews Bay lobster on the menu alongside Borders beef. Their Jigger Inn is looking gorgeous after the makeover, but has lost none of its character, dating back to 1852.
Old Course Hotel (Image: Robin McKelvie)
Retail Therapy – Forget mega malls and chains; St Andrews is more about wee boutiques and independent options. Think wee stores run with passion and an independent spirit alongside many of the High Street names you’d get in a city. Spoiled living is very St Andrews: a café with gorgeous homeware and clothing. You can fashion your own tweed handbags at Islander, Luvians Bottleshop is an old-school booze emporium and Orkney’s Sheila Fleet brings her fine jewellery to town too.
St Andrews is more about wee boutiques and independent shops (Image: Robin McKelvie)
Fife Coastal Path – For me the most underrated long-distance walk-in Scotland. You can hike north from the town to the Tay and back west, or tackle the rugged section south of St Andrews. I recommend the latter bashing north towards St Andrews along by the sea in search of the town’s church spires. Last time I did it from Kingsbarns I encountered seals, seabirds and a herd of Highland cows.
Dig deep into the history – Literally. St Andrews Castle has a dramatically bloody and tumultuous history, with the legacy a siege tunnel you can still delve down today. It’s one of my favourite castles in Scotland, set on rugged cliffs peering out at the big skies of the North Sea. Continue your own heritage trail following the coast to the grand ruins of St Andrews Cathedral, once the most important ecclesiastical edifice in Scotland.
St Andrews Castle (Image: Robin McKelvie)
Enjoy the sands of time – That scene from Chariots of Fire was shot in St Andrews on the sweeping West Sands. If you want to go full-on cheesy you can race along the beach recreating it, but it’s just a great place for a stroll too scanning for the cetaceans who patrol the local waters. Many visitors miss out on East Sands, which is a lovely wee beach too. Then there is the old tidal pool the local community are trying to resurrect.
West Sands (Image: Robin McKelvie)
Get wet and wild – Whether you want to add a zeitgeist-ticking ‘wild’ in front of your swimming or not, St Andrews is great for a swim off either of its beaches. There is, of course, a local swimming group. If you brave the waters at East Sands the St Andrews Seaside Sauna is on hand to help you get coorie afterwards. There is another sauna at the West Sands, and the Old Course Hotel offer complimentary use of dry robes. The bubbly brothers behind Blown Away Surf School are experts at teaching even first-timers how to catch a wave.
T Squared Social – Yes Tiger Woods is a golfer, but he has teamed up with Justin Timberlake to resurrect St Andrew’s historic cinema at T-Squared Social. I’m delighted that they have kept two cinema screens open, plus you can drink and dine here too. And yes there are golf simulators if you just cannot resist.
T Squared Social (Image: Robin McKelvie)
Eden Mill – I’m delighted that this new distillery has emerged from a tricky period and now offers tours and both whisky and gin experiences. There is The Lookout too, with sweeping views back to the St Andrews Skyline. Settle in with a charcuterie platter and a cocktail with a local spirit as you toast yourself to a golf-free St Andrews break.