{"id":546674,"date":"2026-04-23T16:02:09","date_gmt":"2026-04-23T16:02:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/546674\/"},"modified":"2026-04-23T16:02:09","modified_gmt":"2026-04-23T16:02:09","slug":"the-welsh-church-claimed-by-spiders-and-ivy-what-do-britains-derelict-churches-say-about-our-health-and-happiness-wales","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/546674\/","title":{"rendered":"The Welsh church claimed by spiders and ivy: what do Britain\u2019s derelict churches say about our health and happiness? | Wales"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Abandoned: Church main\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Abandoned__Church--237b8615-883a-42a6-8fe5-52401effcb19-1.0.0000000.jpg\" loading=\"lazy\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" class=\"dcr-l300o4\"\/>Abandoned: Church main<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">There is a sign on the gate leading through the circular stone wall that surrounds St Tyfrydog\u2019s church on Anglesey (Ynys M\u00f4n). Services, in Welsh and English, are held on the first and third Sunday of the month, at 2.15pm, it says. But this is no longer the case: the last service was held here on 22 November 2020.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">There was a decent turnout that day, to say goodbye to this little medieval church, parts of which date from about 1400 (there has been a church on the site since 450). The problem was that, before then, apart from on big occasions such as Christmas and the harvest festival, the congregation was tiny; five or six people, sometimes just three.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Passing through the gate today, into the churchyard, the first thing I notice is the ivy. It covers the ground and the graves; it creeps inexorably towards the church, where it climbs the stone walls, reaching up and grabbing hold, as if to reclaim the church by dragging it down into the ground.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">The sycamore trees around the perimeter of the churchyard are doing nothing to protect it from the wind for which Anglesey is known. It is bitterly cold and gloomy, but also enchanting. I am here with Tom and Jane Bown and Tom\u2019s sister, Peggy Thomas. The Bowns live a mile or so away across the fields on the family farm (sheep and cattle), though these days their sons, Emlyn and William, do most of the farming. Tom is 87 and Jane 78. Peggy, who lives a few miles further away, is 85.<\/p>\n<p>(From left) Former warden Tom Bown, his wife Jane and Tom\u2019s sister Peggy Thomas at St Tyfrydog\u2019s church. Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The Guardian<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Until the church shut its doors, Tom was the warden of St Tyfrydog\u2019s. He had been a member of the congregation all his life. Obviously, he was sad when the church closed, but he is a pragmatist. \u201cYou can\u2019t carry on if people aren\u2019t going; there\u2019s no point sending clergy if there\u2019s no one there,\u201d he says. Jane is nonconformist and attends a Methodist chapel, but she used to come to St Tyfrydog\u2019s services to play the organ. \u201cWhat upset Tom most when it closed was that the key went, and he was never allowed into the church again.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Today, however, Tom has the key back \u2013 more on why later. It\u2019s chunky, made of iron and a bit rusty. But after some jiggling in the keyhole, it turns and in we go.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">****<\/p>\n<p>Churches at riskSt Tyfrydog\u2019s closed in 2020. Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The Guardian<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">According to the National Churches Trust, there are about 38,500 churches, chapels and meeting houses in the UK, approximately half of which are listed buildings. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nationalchurchestrust.org\/sites\/default\/files\/2025-10\/SUMMARY_NationalChurchesTrust_SurveyReport_AW.pdf\" data-link-name=\"in body link\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">In a survey last year by the trust<\/a>, in which 3,628 churches took part, one in 20 of those surveyed said they felt they will \u201cdefinitely\u201d or \u201cprobably\u201d not be used as a place of worship in five years\u2019 time. Before coming to Anglesey, I spoke to the chair of the trust, Sir Philip Rutnam, about why this is happening. \u201cThe fundamental reason is the number of people going to church has declined,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s not the case everywhere, some are even growing,\u201d but generally, the news is not good.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Two kinds of churches are particularly at risk: those in poorer towns and cities, and those in rural areas. On the first point, Rutnam points to Wigan, where the Anglican Diocese of Liverpool <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nationalchurchestrust.org\/campaign\/our-updates\/19-churches-set-close-wigan\" data-link-name=\"in body link\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">came up with a plan<\/a> in 2023 to close up to 19 churches. \u201cThey haven\u2019t closed all those buildings,\u201d says Rutnam. \u201cBut nonetheless, you see in northern towns and cities \u2013 poorer towns and cities generally \u2013 a big risk of closure. There\u2019s a link to deprivation.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">In rural areas, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/culture\/2025\/oct\/21\/repair-bills-could-force-hundreds-of-uk-churches-to-close-within-five-years-survey\" data-link-name=\"in body link\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">about 900 churches are in danger of closing<\/a> by 2030, according to the Trust\u2019s survey. \u201cParticularly rural churches in more isolated, again poorer, parts of the country,\u201d says Rutnam. Places such as St Tyfrydog\u2019s. Rutnam points to another example: the medieval parish church in the village of Burstwick, near Hull. \u201cNot a tiny village \u2013 it has a population of 2,000 \u2013 but they couldn\u2019t raise the \u00a3250,000 to fix the roof. Even with declining attendances, if that was Hertfordshire, the community would probably have been able to rustle up the money,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Church closures are often triggered by the need for expensive repairs. In the Trust\u2019s survey, one in 10 respondents reported that their church building needed urgent repair within a year. And the responsibility for the upkeep and maintenance lies not with the Church nationally, nor with the bishop if it\u2019s a diocese, but with the local congregation. That\u2019s different from other countries. There are approximately 50,000 churches in France, the vast majority of which are owned by the state. \u201cIt\u2019s the same in Belgium,\u201d says Rutnam. \u201cIn most of Europe, there are systems of taxes which go towards supporting these buildings. But in Britain, the financial responsibilities rest with the local congregation.\u201d When that local congregation is neither wealthy nor numerous, things become difficult.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">****<\/p>\n<p>Old memories\u2018It was a very sad occasion, knowing we would never go back in.\u2019 Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The Guardian<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">The hamlet of Llandyfrydog is tiny. Apart from St Tyfrydog\u2019s church, there is an old rectory and a former schoolhouse (both now private homes), a couple of other houses, and beyond that fields and scattered farms, from where the congregation used to come. Some are now second homes. Tom points to one that\u2019s owned by someone they hardly ever see. \u201cTotal waste of a house,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">The first thing I notice as I go through the church door is the ivy again: here in the porch, it has wormed its way in under the eaves and is making itself at home inside. Also in the porch is a wooden bier. I wonder if it was used to carry the coffins of Tom and Peggy\u2019s parents? But no, Tom says, they were cremated and their ashes were put in the family plot here.<\/p>\n<p>Jane used to play the organ at services. Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The GuardianThe stained glass window behind the altar. Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The Guardian<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Peggy has a happier memory of St Tyfrydog\u2019s. On 21 July 1962, she got married here. She walked through this porch on her father\u2019s arm on the way to the altar where another local farmer, John Thomas, was waiting. \u201cWe had the service, then went up to the steps to have the blessing,\u201d she says. \u201cQuite a lot of relatives came, the church was reasonably full, it\u2019s only a small church as you see.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"The wedding of Peggy Bown and John Thomas.\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/The_wedding_of_Peggy_Bown_and_John_Thomas.--ca86eccc-0a35-4cce-99c8-d9bb2b512036-1.0.0000000.jpg\" loading=\"lazy\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" class=\"dcr-l300o4\"\/>The wedding of Peggy Bown and John Thomas.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">We are in the nave now, which has charming box pews. Peggy shows me where the family used to sit, \u201cand woe betide anyone else who tried to sit there\u201d. Then she laughs because towards the end there wasn\u2019t anyone else sitting anywhere. She and Jane remember some of the vicars they had over the years: Erasmus Jones, Father Dylan (Jane\u2019s favourite, \u201che was quite jovial, lots of jokes\u201d) and more recently the Rev Kevin Ellis, who took that last service in 2020. \u201cIt was a very sad occasion, knowing we would never go back in,\u201d says Jane.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Except today they have. It\u2019s quiet in here, out of the wind, but no warmer than outside. There is crumbled plaster, fallen from the ceiling, on the floor and over the pews. It\u2019s clear the roof is leaking \u2013 you can see daylight in a couple of places. The paint on the walls is bubbled and pustulous, some of the floorboards have rotted. It\u2019s particularly bad in the vestry where the whole floor has collapsed under the weight of a table. In among the debris are cups and saucers that must have been on the table before it fell. There are cobwebs over many of the windows, but otherwise there is no sign of wildlife. Tom thought there might be bats here at night-time.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"The wedding of Peggy Bown and John Thomas.\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/The_wedding_of_Peggy_Bown_and_John_Thomas.--9523d8d2-f453-4e37-8583-463618cc2f1a-1.0.0000000.jpg\" loading=\"lazy\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" class=\"dcr-l300o4\"\/>The wedding of Peggy Bown and John Thomas.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">When a church like St Tyfrydog\u2019s closes, it goes into the hands of either the diocese or the national bodies of the Church of England or, in this case, the Church in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/uk\/wales\" data-link-name=\"in body link\" data-component=\"auto-linked-tag\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Wales<\/a>, which can ultimately sell it. This, Rutnam says, \u201cis often felt to give rise to a financial incentive for the diocese or the church commissioners to close buildings and sell them\u201d. But he thinks it is unfair to claim the Church wants to close buildings to make money. \u201cIn my experience, the bigger issue is that the whole process around closing a building and trying to resolve what its future is can mean that it declines and decays for a long time. That then makes it much more difficult to secure a new future for the building.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Tom thought there might be bats here at night-time.\u2019 Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The Guardian<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">That said, Rutnam is keen to point out that, given the right level of community action, support and, of course, funding, most churches can be turned around. And that, although many fewer people go to them than was the case 50 years ago, churches are still important. For one, they make up \u201cjust about half of the country\u2019s most important historic buildings, so it matters if you care about the country\u2019s history and cultural inheritance, not just because of the buildings but because they contain vast collections of stained glass and sculpture, many times the size of any museum collections\u201d.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">But churches also matter in the lives of the communities that surround them, says Rutnam. \u201cThe symbolism, the identity, the sense of place they give, and in many cases the kind of social provision and infrastructure,\u201d he says. He points out that 85% of food banks are based in a church, and a great deal of support groups such as Alcoholics Anonymous, parent and toddler meet-ups, choirs and theatre groups, take place in churches and church halls. \u201cLook at when there\u2019s a flood or other local disaster, what building does the local authority or police open up and use? Often it\u2019s the church.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Despite its poor state of repair, the cold, the echoey interior and the marauding ivy, St Tyfrydog\u2019s does still feel like a church, not yet a ruin. We talk, if not in whispers, then with a sort of hushed reverence. \u201cI was expecting it to be worse than it is, and the ceiling to have come down completely,\u201d says Tom.<\/p>\n<p>St Tyfrydog\u2019s is a Grade II*-listed building Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The Guardian<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">He, Jane and Peggy walk around quietly, reacquainting themselves with old friends. The font was presented to the church by Tom and Peggy\u2019s grandfather in 1898. Tom and Jane\u2019s youngest grandchild, Martha Jane, was one of the last to be baptised here, in 2011. Jane finds some string hanging from the pulpit; she tied it here before the church closed, to hang sunflowers and grapes at harvest festival. And here is the organ she used to play, covered in plaster, but still with a hymn book in Welsh and English. Oh go on, give us a blast. \u201cThere\u2019s no electric, it\u2019s an electric one,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">At the western end, a single bell rope hangs. One of Tom\u2019s jobs, on a Sunday, was to ring this bell. As we leave, he gives it a tug \u2013 although not too hard, in case the roof falls down on us. Nothing happens: he thinks the clapper inside the bell has rusted and fallen off.<\/p>\n<p>Answered prayers?The ivy climbs the stone walls.  Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The Guardian<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">But in a down-to-earth kind of way, Tom, Jane and Peggy\u2019s prayers have been answered. Rachel Morley is director of <a href=\"https:\/\/friendsoffriendlesschurches.org.uk\/\" data-link-name=\"in body link\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Friends of Friendless Churches<\/a>, a charity that rescues and protects historic places of worship in England and Wales. Its funding comes from its 3,500 members, donations, plus grants, legacies and a bit of government funding via <a href=\"https:\/\/cadw.gov.wales\/\" data-link-name=\"in body link\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Cadw,<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/cadw.gov.wales\/\" data-link-name=\"in body link\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\"> <\/a>the Welsh government\u2019s historic environment service. Guess which church it has just agreed to take on? That\u2019s where the key came from.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Speaking to Morley after my visit, she talks passionately about how she became involved and why churches need to be rescued and protected. \u201cWhen I moved to the UK from Ireland, I didn\u2019t know anybody, and I loved that I could go around the countryside and anywhere I went there was going to be a church and more often than not it would be open. I could go in and I didn\u2019t have to buy anything or pay to get in.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The last service at St Tyfrydog\u2019s. Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The GuardianThe interior of the church Photograph: Christopher Thomond\/The Guardian<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Morley was brought up Catholic, but isn\u2019t religious. \u201cI just love that they are there, they belong to the landscape and the nation. Anyone can go in, for spiritual succour, or if you\u2019ve been on a walk and you want to sit down and eat your lunch.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">She echoes Rutnam on the architectural importance, plus the carvings, paintings and tapestries. Also \u2013 especially \u2013 on the importance of churches to communities. She is perhaps less generous towards the church institutions that sometimes sell them off. \u201cThose buildings weren\u2019t put there by Church institutions, they were built by local people, even if it was the lord of the manor.\u201d It was local communities \u201cthat would have paid their pew rent, over generations, to have the privilege of being a Church of England or a Church in Wales church. So it feels morally wrong that a building can be plucked out and sold to an individual for profit that goes to the national church body. It seems shortsighted and transactional, and goes against what these buildings are for.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">St Tyfrydog\u2019s is a Grade II*-listed building and was vested to Friends of Friendless Churches by the Church in Wales. Now, the charity will have to find the funds to rescue it, which Morley estimates will cost about \u00a3350,000 (including VAT, which the government doesn\u2019t exempt).<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">Obviously, the charity can\u2019t save all closed churches, so I wonder what it was about St Tyfrydogs? \u201cPeople often ask what the killer thing is. Is it a fantastic rood screen or whatever,\u201d says Morley, \u201cbut though we do really like St Tyfrydog\u2019s \u2013 I go on about the box pews all the time \u2013 we\u2019re the Friends of Friendless Churches, not the Friends of Listed Buildings. So a good way of prioritising is to ask: \u2018If we didn\u2019t step in, what would happen here?\u2019 And in this case, it would just sit there, the holes in the roof would get bigger, the ivy would take over, it would still be a problem in 10 years\u2019 time \u2013 just a bigger problem.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">So what happens now? The charity will fix the place up, put a new roof on, sort the drainage, halt the advancing ivy, all of which it hopes to get done this year. Then the deal is that it will preserve the building as a monument, and it can be used for Christian activities and community activities. Morley says there will be a community consultation to find out what people want when they get their old church back. \u201cFrom our work elsewhere, just having the building in good condition and having the door open, you invite opportunities \u2013 and for people to think about how they can use the space. It might take a few years, but ultimately people do get interested again.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">****<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">I call Tom, to tell him the specifics of the plan, that the church is going to get a new roof and new drains. He\u2019s out working \u2013 lambing has begun, it sounds windy. \u201cThat\u2019s wonderful, I\u2019m over the moon, sounds like it\u2019ll cost a fortune.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">He wonders how much use he\u2019ll get out of the building now. \u201cI won\u2019t be around much longer. I\u2019m 87,\u201d he says. But, given that he is out lambing today, I think he is going to be around for some time yet. He intends to visit the church afterwards, too. \u201cJane\u2019s in charge of that, but I think we\u2019re going to be cremated, then the ashes put in the family plot\u201d \u2013 to join his and Peggy\u2019s parents within the circular stone wall of St Tyfrydog\u2019s. \u201cNot that I believe in the afterlife or anything like that, I\u2019m quite modern-thinking about that. Once you\u2019re gone, you\u2019re gone.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-130mj7b\">He has to get back to work, but has one final message: \u201cI hope the Friends of Friendless Churches will fix the bell. Somebody who understands bells could probably do that fairly easily.\u201d Hopefully, Tom will get to ring it once again.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Abandoned: Church main There is a sign on the gate leading through the circular stone wall that surrounds&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":546675,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[35],"tags":[5903,101,56,54,55],"class_list":{"0":"post-546674","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-rugby","8":"tag-rugby","9":"tag-sports","10":"tag-uk","11":"tag-united-kingdom","12":"tag-unitedkingdom"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/546674","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=546674"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/546674\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/546675"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=546674"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=546674"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=546674"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}