In 15th-century Milan, at an opulent Christmas Eve banquet hosted by Duke Ludovico il Moro, the cook’s planned dessert turned into a burnt disaster. A scullery boy named Toni had a solution, one his nonna made every Christmas: a loaf of sweet bread enriched with butter, eggs, raisins and candied fruit.
The Duke was so delighted by the airy, golden and elevated brioche he named it “Pan di Toni” (Toni’s Bread), which eventually evolved into the name we know today: Panettone. Or, at least that’s the legend.
Whether or not that myth accurately harkens back to the Christmas delicacy’s origins cannot be completely nailed down. But what is certain is that this traditional holiday delight – a staple under the Christmas trees of Italian-American families on the East Coast – is making its way west to Los Angeles, with a Southern Californian kick.
Making a true panettone is no easy feat. Traditional panettone relies on lievito madre, or mother yeast, a natural sourdough starter that gives the bread its signature lightness, subtle tang, and a long shelf life without chemical preservatives. Creating an authentic loaf takes three entire days. The dough must rise multiple times, sometimes for nearly 20 hours at a time, to develop its ethereal, melt-in-your-mouth texture. It is then hung upside down to create its signature dome shape.
At Bianca Los Angeles in Culver City, Executive Pastry Chef Federico “Fede” Fernandez, who is Argentinian, adheres to the time-consuming authenticity that marks a true Panettone. The Dulce de Leche Panettone is inspired by Fede’s Argentinian roots, laced with his housemade dulce de leche. There is also a classic dried fruit Panettone that pays homage to Bianca’s co-owner Gianni Vietina and one that combines the best of both cultures with an orange and dark chocolate, which, the pastry chef says, “balances bright citrus and imported dark chocolate.”
Panettone is about tradition, and at Bianca Los Angeles in Culver City, it is made the old way, which can take three daysCredit: Xime Etchart
“I have been sourcing the ingredients over the years, making sure we have nothing but the best. There are no additives. No commercial yeast. Only natural fermentation and time,” Fernandez says. “Throughout the season you can often see them resting in our bakery window. My work is not about reinventing panettone. It is about honoring it.”
For Italians, giving a Panettone at Christmas is not just about the taste, but about tradition as a symbol of luck and prosperity through the New Year, shared as a gift to bring warmth and joy to the holiday table.
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