Retrospectives on the year go hand in hand with December. For Eater editors, what that means is looking back on memorable meals and drinks that didn’t fade into the background of a year of eating on the job. We write about these meals every month in our Best Dishes column — and report more deeply on them in our Dining Reports. For December, editors Dianne de Guzman and Paolo Bicchieri revisited those dishes to highlight the best of the best. These are the meals that we looked back most fondly on, and we hope it inspires you to hit a new-to-you restaurant or bar. It just might be your new favorite, or, at least, a good memory to look back on at the end of 2026.
Duck liver mousse at Octavia
Architected into a purple, green, and gray tower, duck liver at Octavia takes on not just a new shape but a new meaning. The mille-feuille allows the mousse to work as a kind of savory caulking, with mulberry gastrique and caramelized onion jam pitching in to keep things together. I can’t overstate the range from my expectation of this visually pleasing dish to the first bite. I thought, This will be good, sure. That first taste was stunning. My dining partners and I were in real awe: The sweet depth of the mulberries colliding with the jam alone was scintillating, but the mille-feuille’s shattering texture added one more octave to the composition. Then, the mousse! A rich and nutty indulgence, somehow inside the same colorful barracks. Hats off to chef Jack Irving, who is the grill sergeant in the kitchen these days. And hats off to the corner restaurant finding new history to add to its storied foundation. — Paolo Bicchieri, audience editor, Northern California/Pacific Northwest
Octavia (1701 Octavia Street) is open 5 p.m. to 9:15 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
Oxtail kare kare at Carabao
The kare kare at Carabao is unlike any you’ll find. Dianne de Guzman
Carabao is one of the restaurant openings I was most excited about this year, and it proved to be an exciting debut in Napa — especially since this is the area’s first sit-down Filipino restaurant. As a Filipino American, I had an outsized curiosity to see how chef Jade Cunningham would present Filipino dishes at her new restaurant, and I wasn’t disappointed; my dining companion and I decked out the table with dishes, including pork lumpia, a sisig taco, spaghetti, summer ensalada, and more. But the standout item was the crispy kare kare, an oxtail dish with a peanut curry base, accompanied with tripe, bok choy, green beans, and pieces of charred eggplant. The oxtail was given a different treatment than what is typical of the dish. Along with tenderizing the cut of meat, our table was told the oxtail is then taken off the bone, shredded, placed back on the bone, then breaded and fried — culminating in what the San Francisco Chronicle likened to a croquette. This fried version gave the dish some oomph, a crispness that kare kare doesn’t normally have, an added dimension to an otherwise familiar dish. It’s a heavier item, so I would recommend pairing it with the summer ensalada for balance, but otherwise flit through the wonderful menu for a distinctive take on Filipino food. — Dianne de Guzman, regional editor, Northern California/Pacific Northwest
Carabao (145 Gasser Drive, Suite C, Napa) is open from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday.
Tofu clay pot at Taishan Cuisine
Tofu for days at Taishan. Paolo Bicchieri
At 2 a.m., Taishan on Broadway is going off. Tables are full of diners, food is flying out of the kitchen, cups of tea are refilling left and right. The number 21 tofu clay pot — or the soy-braised tofu, depending on the translation — is the best $12 you can spend right as the witching hour looms over San Francisco. Firstly, it’s a ton of indulgent-as-hell tofu, garlic, and greens dressing the hefty bowl. Be warned, as the tofu comes out piping. Secondly, a smart shopper orders congee and scallion pancakes, too, and sees themselves through a fairly inexpensive feast of warming munchies. Sesame balls, centers of purple treasure, serve as chewy after-tofu affairs. — PB
Taishan Cuisine, 781 Broadway, San Francisco.
Joojeh kabob got this writer out of a food rut in December. Dianne de Guzman
As a food editor going out on the town often, when I dine with friends, it’s assumed I’m picking the location. There’s nothing wrong with that, as it comes with the territory, but what I’m usually interested in is where my friends love to go for a meal on their own. I have my own lists and Google map pins, but oftentimes when I force the decision on others, I find places that aren’t yet on my radar. Such was the case at Lavash, a charming Persian restaurant on Irving Street, where I had lunch in December. Letting my friend take the lead on ordering, it was a truly refreshing meal, including an herb-filled sabzi paneer platter, ghormeh sabzi, and this lovely joojeh kabob. Composed of chicken breast and thighs, the marinated meat sang against the grains of perfectly cooked basmati saffron rice. This friend, a regular, thankfully knew to ask if the kitchen could add zereshk, or barberries, atop the rice, which gave everything another dimension as we tore into each bite. Pairing with this food is a gorgeous space just bursting with flowers, and it’s an all-around great place to drop in for a meal, and one I’ll be coming back to in the future. — DDG
Lavash (511 Irving Street) is open from noon to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, and noon to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Broccoli pizza at the Laundromat
Free advice: There’s gluten-free pizza at the Laundromat, and it’s good. Paolo Bicchieri
Unfortunately, it took me more than two years to learn Balboa Street’s the Laundromat had gluten-free pizza. The times I tried to go upon its maddeningly popular debut, I couldn’t get in, giving up over time as I thought, “Well, what can I eat at a bagel and pizza place anyways?” I’d go by in the mornings, grabbing a cup of Grand Coffee, ever curious as my friends wolfed the bagels. On a sunny evening, I finally ordered my gluten-free pie. Stupendous. Stupid springy and crispy at the same time, crackly bits of cheese on the base with light slices of fennel reigning above all the indulgence below. After the Brussels sprouts, the goat cheese was nutty and rich enough that I thought there was a base of tahini beneath the dish, and I could barely finish. Fortunately, I have reason to wait in line next time. — PB
The Laundromat (3725 Balboa Street) is open for dinner 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday.
The Verjus salmon may have proved that baked and pan-seared salmon can actually be good — even great. Dianne de Guzman
I don’t really have any food aversions — as most may suspect, in my line of work, it truly helps to be open to trying new things or perhaps reconsidering any hangups one may have about a dish. But one thing I will talk about, if asked, is how I just haven’t quite figured out how to like cooked salmon. Smoked salmon? Love it. Raw salmon for sushi and sashimi? Big fan. But oven-baked or pan-seared salmon and I parted ways sometime in my early 20s. I haven’t quite given up on it, but I think two decades of overcooked versions have just made me wary. I decided to kick the tires on my salmon aversion to see if it’s still a thing, and ordered Le Grand Aioli at Verjus when trying out their new prix fixe lunch menu on a recent weekday. Shockingly, I loved every bite of this dish and found it to be perfectly enjoyable. (Again! Personal preference!) I don’t think it was the aioli that did the trick, but it certainly didn’t hurt, and a small dollop on each piece of vegetable and salmon made every bite sing. The dish certainly gave my usual Verjus favorite — the Boursin omelet — a run for its money, which I didn’t think was possible. The lunch was an indulgent treat, to be sure, but it’s a good pick-me-up when needed. — DDG
Verjus (550 Washington Street, San Francisco) is open for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, and 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Wednesday.
Kimchi fried rice at Southside Super
Southside Super in Sacramento is no slouch thanks to powerful Vietnamese and Korean fare. Paolo Bicchieri
It’s hot in Sacramento. The long limbs of trees jungle over V Street’s Southside Super and provide shade for few outdoor seats — tiny like kids’ tables. The kimchi fried rice here has all the elements I look for: a textural composition that breaks from the same-same vibes of many fried rices, in this case chunks of Spam, scallions, and nori. The spice was pleasant and mellow, the cabbage not overly fried, providing a firm chew. Eater LA’s Matt Kang says the Korean dishes here smack harder than the Vietnamese cuisine. I found everything we ordered — and we ordered a lot — downright devourable, hoovering up bite after bite. — PB
Southside Super (921 V Street, Sacramento) is open 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday through Monday.
Mentaiko spaghetti at Bon Nene
A tangle of spaghetti set taste buds alight. Dianne de Guzman
If you’ve ever hit the perfect trifecta of a San Francisco moment — friends, perfect weather, great food — it’s a testament to what makes San Francisco great. These three elements came together on a recent July afternoon, topped off with an excellent lunch at Bon, Nene in the Mission. The cozy dining room felt welcoming, and it felt like a charming neighborhood spot as diners chatted over their dishes, or locals dropped in to pick up something to-go. The mentaiko spaghetti seemed right for the occasion, and although I initially had worries about the dish — Would I tire of the cured cod roe mix, like any experience of too much of a good thing? — it wound up perfect. The saltiness of the mentaiko was tempered by the use of butter, emulsified into a sauce, clinging to the al dente spaghetti. I worked my way through each bite, and before I knew it, I had polished off the dish, a surprise to even myself. In fact, the entire table had finished their plates in short order, and we walked away impressed and vowing to return. And when I do, this is one plate that will be on the table. — DDG
Bon, Nene (2850 21st Street, San Francisco) is open from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, and noon to 3 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Saturday.
Strawberries and cream at Friends and Family
Whether or not the strawberries are on the menu, get to Friends and Family before it closes on Tuesday, December 30. Paolo Bicchieri
The heightening pressure on queer communities in the United States makes the scene at Friends and Family feel all the more significant. That may be a reality or burden not that desirable for the destination bar. But headed over for the first time, it was a palpable relief for my party and me, the aesthetics and staff offering a sense of familiarity before the exquisitely made drinks hit the table. Chef Gaby Maeda’s dishes across the board landed with all four of us — the sesame-sprinkled onigiri and herby tteokbokki riffs were particular highlights. The strawberries and cream, though, merged the overt commitment to sweetness and Maeda’s restaurant chops in fine fashion. Demerara sugar-studded strawberries, held to the surface with a straight-up sour cream, do something special to the soul these days. If nostalgia serves any purpose, maybe it’s to remind us of a world that still feels, as poet and writer Hanif Abdurraqib notes. Thanks to Friends and Family for keeping bellies full and hearts beating while so much of our country eats itself. — PB
Friends and Family (468 25th Street, Oakland) closes permanently on Tuesday, December 30.
Tortilla with chanterelles at Here Before
Spanish omelet fans should mark their calendars for the next Here Before pop-up. Dianne de Guzman
When I turned up at the most recent Here Before pop-up at Broc Cellars in Berkeley, I tried thinking back to when I last had a Spanish tortilla. But after biting into chef Walker Stern’s version, I immediately decided that whenever that moment was, I’ve definitely been missing out for years. It’s tough to describe what made this seemingly simple dish soar; parts-wise, the potato had a nice soft bite to it, the eggs — filling out every non-potato crevice — were perfectly cooked, not rubbery and overdone (a miracle, if you saw Stern cooking several dishes to order that day). Punctuated by buttons of chanterelle mushrooms, it was a nice, light Sunday lunchtime meal that I’ll be thinking about for a while. It shouldn’t be a surprise that this dish is excellent — he was the opening chef at the return of French omelet-famous wine bar Verjus in San Francisco, after all — but it’s nice to see his own cooking out in the wild, along with partner Devon Nevola running front of house. After this Spanish tortilla, knowing me, I’ll likely be scouring menus for this dish, maybe attempting a homemade version, until I get to the next Here Before event. — DDG
Follow Here Before on Instagram for their next pop-up.
The One Ton at Better Half Coffee
Caffeine hits different at Better Half Coffee. Paolo Bicchieri
One of San Francisco’s most stalwart baristas has crafted a scintillating, bouqueting drink highlighting Northern California caffeine history. Joshua Kaplowitz’s new home for his outfit shares a Nob Hill space with Bar Bibi, the next iteration of the Habibi wine bar pop-up. His One Ton is a riff on the one and one, a split espresso drink taken to the barista championship circuit by Santa Cruz’s Verve Coffee. Rather than serving with a tiny portion of milk, though, this single-origin espresso arrives with a miniature kaffe tonic. That’s a nod to Saint Frank, credited for taking the quinine-friendly bev to specialty heights: It’s also the shop where Kaplowitz cut his teeth. His presentation allows for focus on the espresso with the option of bubbles, a wise bifurcation that provides a comprehensive palate expression for the coffee itself. Get this drink while it’s still $7 — the mustachioed proprietor has debuted a new San Francisco coffee contender as strong as any he’s nodding toward. — PB
Better Half Coffee, 1448 Pacific Avenue, is open 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Savory egg souffle at San Ho Won
This egg souffle is a star. Dianne de Guzman
With the Thanksgiving holiday on the horizon (and the implied heavy meal that comes with it), the dish lingering on my mind is a humble one that I don’t want anyone to miss. On a recent visit to San Ho Won, every dish was impressive, but surprisingly, it was the savory egg soufflé that really spoke to me. To be honest, if our party ordered a la carte at the restaurant, I don’t know that I would have noticed it on the menu. Thankfully, this star egg souffle came with the house menu, a nice warming course after the Busan-style seafood pancake kicked off the meal. The egg itself was lovely and fluffy, like a cloud of eggy goodness. But what stood out was the broth — a spicy anchovy broth that was poured over the egg. It had really nice umami to it, giving the broth some depth and dimension to it, different than other typical egg souffles I’ve had. The whole thing was then topped with a bit of rock seaweed sauce. I kept taking spoonfuls of broth and egg, trying to figure out why I liked it so much. I still haven’t found out, but I’d be lying if I said I haven’t searched for a dolsot pot and burner for my house, in case I can recreate that magic at home. Until then, I’ll have to come back for this the next time I want another hit of Korean barbecue. — DDG
San Ho Won, 2170 Bryant Street, San Francisco, is open from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.