What It Is: mac and cheese made with both fresh and traditional mozzarella, Monterey Jack, smoked Gouda and Romano cheeses, topped with tomatoes and fresh basilPrice: $17

I tried the plainest of the lot first to see how brightly the noodles and cheese sauce would shine on their own. While the sauce looked a bit thin and runny when I first dug in, its flavor was savory, just salty enough and mild. The combination of cheeses was apparent; I could taste the sharp, aged edge of the Romano and the buttery sweetness of the Gouda, as well as see the melty, stretchy glory of the mozz and Monterey Jack. The slightly charred basil gave an earthy, herby note to every few bites, while the tomato imparted color and acid (and, most importantly, made it look like a pizza).