Pijja Palace flipped the concept of a sports bar on its head with Indian flavor–infused bar food favorites and a vibe that gives more mid-century modern than sticky floors and too-loud baseball games. Televisions dot the walls playing whatever sport is on — whether it be football or a skateboarding competition — as tikka masala-topped pijjas and achaari Buffalo wings emerge from the kitchen. Now that the battle for reservations has partially quelled, Pijja Palace has grown into a standby for cold beer, lively crowds, and a good time — just what a neighborhood sports bar should be.

Going to a dinner while an important baseball game is on; an extended yap session over piri piri fries, cocktails, and salad; or dinner for out-of-town guests when you want to leave a good impression.

The bar offers walk-ins for smaller groups looking for a spur of the moment visit.

Pijja Palace, the runaway hit from first-time restauranteur Avish Naran, delivers to Angelenos something they didn’t know they needed: an Indian sports bar. Located on the ground floor of a Comfort Inn in Silver Lake, the restaurant’s raucous energy is undeniable, while its menu — a charming collision of Indian flavors and American bar standards — dazzles with an avalanche of flavor and spice from chef Miles Shorey. Nearly every table orders the malai rigatoni, a bowlful of ridged noodles that cling easily to a creamy tomato masala sauce. The thin-crusted bar pies are just as memorable, especially one slathered in an aromatic green chutney that rivals the rigatoni in popularity. Those in the know order the hush-hush Andy pie that comes topped with northern Makhini sauce, spicy pepperoni, fresh dill, onions, and honey. Dosa-battered onion rings, plenty of hot wings, and a luscious cardamom soft serve are on hand to round out every dinner. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor