Sometimes it’s worth describing a restaurant by the texture of its dishes. Crispy onion pakora. Just-firm enough broccolini dusted in Parmesan. Chef Heena Patel’s Besharam knows creaminess better than any other texture.
Besharam is neon-lit, coated in murals of South Asian divas. Tables sit near each other, and the restaurant is nestled inside the Minnesota Street Project, a series of galleries. The staff, all dressed in black, are smiley, warm, and wonderfully attentive.
Drive to Besharam; waiting for a Lyft or Uber in the Dogpatch can be annoying. There’ll be somewhere to park.