Across a storied city like San Francisco, arguably no neighborhood boasts more lore than North Beach. From the scantily clad to the poetic savants, the area is rich with spectacle and intrigue, with the groundwork laid centuries ago. After the Gold Rush and before the tech boom, the City’s Jazz scene was birthed in North Beach and today, that legacy lives on through Keys Jazz Bistro.
Located on Broadway, but a perfect distance from the madness at the intersection with Columbus, Keys has an unassuming entrance that transports you to another era, where you’re immersed in all the charm of a traditional jazz club without the stale tobacco smoke. This is NOT your grandfather’s old dive. But your grandfather may have frequented the building’s predecessor: Barnaby Conrad’s legendary El Matador, which hosted the biggest names in jazz in the 1950s.
Owner Simon Rowe opened Keys in 2022 and is a seasoned jazz ambassador. He’s no stranger to the jazz scene, boasting a doctorate of musical arts in performance, which he’s put to use prior to Keys as both a musician and venue creator. He operates Keys like it’s a passion project, not the latest prize in a venture capital portfolio. The environment conveys the mission: pay homage while ushering in modern conveniences, all while keeping quality music as the north star.
“The culture of jazz music has been the focus of my life since I was a young teenager,” Rowe said. “I’ve been a jazz musician for 50 years now so Keys is the culmination of my work as a player and advocate – a producer and a champion of this beautiful art form.”
On a recent crisp autumn evening, Keys hosted a residency performance from local legends, the Mission District’s own Jazz Mafia, who put on back-to-back evening shows that led into a late-night bonus performance for the city’s more adventurous patrons. This is par for the course as the Keys schedule regularly includes music and dinner for all ages four nights a week, including three sets each on Fridays and Saturdays.
A scene from the El Matador during its heyday in the 1950s.
Tom Beeson via Keys Jazz Bistro
When you sit down in your seat at Keys, the first thing that stands out is the proximity to the musicians. This is not The Eras Tour, nor is it a local open mic night. The venue is perfectly sized to hit the sweet spot of intimate performance and communal energy, while delivering an all-time acoustic experience.
Jazz Mafia’s Adam Theis offered a performer’s perspective and his appreciation for what Keys offers and represents.
“These smaller venues allow for more experimentation, where artists can be themselves and try things and it’s not all about mass appeal and trying to get the most people in the door,” Theis said after the show. “Community happens more easily in smaller places…It’s a fun place to play; it’s a fun place to listen.”
From the house organ, affectionately named after the “First Lady of St. Louis Jazz” Jeanne Trevor, to the extensive horn section, everything sounded as crisp as the weather lurking just outside the front door. It was obvious that the members of Jazz Mafia, who are no stranger to venues of all sizes, recognized and appreciated the venue and crowd as they dove into their set. Theis, born and raised in Sonoma County, made a point to shout out Keys for helping to keep San Francisco’s music scene alive.
Keys Jazz Bistro Instagram
“The artists are extremely grateful for the privilege to practice their art and they really appreciate the trouble we go to to give them the appropriate respect around their performance,” Rowe said. “I make sure that the materials they have – the instruments, the backline – is world class. The piano, the organ, the drums, the stage, the lighting – I make sure the environment is conducive to them doing their best work.”
While fun can be had at Portola Music Festival and Outside Lands, you don’t feel connected to the performance when you’re watching a crooner on a giant monitor because you’re two football fields away from the action. Keys offers a refreshing alternative. As you take in the performance from mere feet away and direct your gaze from musician to musician, you’re met with a saxophonist in a ‘flow state’ and a drummer in awe of his partner’s talents. Then the roles reverse and the drummer gets his time to shine. Such is the beauty of jazz, with its co-operative approach to the spotlight. The performers of the late Lusty Lady establishment, which just down the street became the first worker-owned, co-operative strip club, would be proud.
If you like your jazz with a side of sustenance, Keys can deliver here, too. The cocktail section delivers on the classics while also offering inventive creations. The food options range from nosh like nuts or olives to proper meals like a delicious salmon over potatoes and veggies. You can even find Rowe’s personal touch in the assortment of Australian meat pies on the menu, a creature comfort he brought over from his homeland.
Between the music and the menu, it’s hard to leave Keys unsatiated. Simon Rowe has built a cathedral to the art of jazz and the musicians he brings in recognize how special it is, inspiring passionate performances that would make the original jazz pioneers in North Beach proud.