There is a long, cherished history of ambitious restaurants opening in tiny strip mall spaces around Los Angeles. Landmarks like Baroo, Trois Mec, and Kato began this way with (relatively) low overhead and the creative freedom that affords. In the corner of a strip mall on the Glendale-Burbank border, chef Arthur Grigoryan and his new restaurant Yerord Mas, which began as a pop-up, could be next in that lineage. Grigoryan’s refined takes on uncommon Armenian dishes feel thoughtful and evocative — even thrilling. You will have to get your own napkins but the food exalts the experience, from snacky patots (stuffed grape leaves) to the behemoth basturma brisket sandwich.
The dining room may not be totally equipped for formal service yet but its casual atmosphere begets homey warmth. Everyone on staff pitches in, which feels intimate and charming.
There are no dish descriptions on the hanging menu board; ordering from it can feel intimidating to first-timers who may be less familiar with Armenian cuisine. Ask the staff what’s up and they will gladly introduce you to the bounty of Armenian foodways.