Four miles into my hike in the Ansel Adams Wilderness, I started daydreaming about Adams’s mule, that stalwart equine that carried his large-format camera, developing equipment, tent, provisions, and other supplies on his excursions into California’s high country.
How marvelous would it be to have my own beast of burden to relieve the backache and leg strain induced by my 40-pound backpack? Having no such option, I put one foot in front of the other, and soon my imaginary companion wandered off into the woods as the trail ascended into some of the most spectacular terrain I’d ever seen—soaring, ice-scoured peaks, fissured slopes dotted with pine trees, and intimate valleys cradling lakes and verdant meadows threaded by clear, cool streams.
That afternoon, we camped beside a still lake rimmed by ponderosa and lodgepole pine; at sunset, I took my camera down to the shore to capture a perfect reflection of sheer cliffs rising from the water and rose-tinged clouds drifting above.
Adams and his mule spent a lot of time in this part of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and in adjacent Yosemite National Park, an area much better known to photographers—and millions of hikers, campers, and sundry tourists who visit each year. That’s the appeal of the AAW for the photographer—stunning vistas without the crowds that swarm photo locations in Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and other popular national parks in the region.
There are no roads in this federal wilderness, so photographing it means traveling on foot, often for miles over rough, stony trails. Your compensation for sore muscles and maybe a blister or two: fresh air, quietude, and the opportunity to bring home unique images of beautiful places well off the beaten path of casual hikers and sightseers.
Into the Wild
Originally established as the Minarets Wilderness, the AAW extends south and east from Yosemite and includes the “Minarets”, a jagged ridge of peaks in the Ritter Range, one of the highest massifs in the Sierra Nevada. In 1984, the California Wilderness Act enlarged the Wilderness and renamed it to honor Adams, a passionate environmental advocate whose iconic monochrome photos of the region helped rally public support for preserving wilderness in California and across the country.
Elevations above 8,000 feet bear the marks of the last Ice Age—sculpted peaks and ridges, and deep lakes left behind by retreating glaciers. Portions of the John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails, favorites of backpackers on long-distance thru hikes, wind through the Wilderness. Overnight camping is controlled by a trail permitting system that limits the number of hikers and horse riders entering the Wilderness daily from May through October.
Communities in the region where you can stay overnight (last chance for a hot shower!) and pick up supplies before hitting the trail include Bass Lake off U.S. 41 north of Fresno, and Mammoth Lakes on the eastern slope of the mountains, reached via U.S. Route 395. Trailheads on the western and eastern edges of the AAW provide access to great views of the Ritter Range and beautiful alpine lakes. A panorama of snow-capped mountains and lakes scattered like jewels on granite slopes radiates from the 10,000-foot summit of Madera Peak, reached from the Fernandez trailhead and Lillian Lake Trail.
A 4.5-mile hike from the Agnew Meadows parking lot off State Highway 203 brings you to the aptly named Thousand Islands Lake, offering a front-row view of the glacier carving between towering Banner Peak and Mount Ritter. Agnew Meadows is also the starting point for a hike to picturesque Ediza Lake, crossing the middle fork of the San Joaquin River and passing waterfalls and rapids along Shadow Creek.
For first-time AAW trekkers, I strongly recommend signing up for a group hiking tour. It’s easy to get lost in the High Sierra—a perilous situation after nightfall, when temperatures can dip into the 30s, even in the summer. An experienced trail guide can lead you safely off main trails to epic vantage points and magical spots you’re unlikely to discover on your own. Reputable firms that organize multi-day trips include Wildland Trekking, SA Expeditions, and Yosemite Guide Service, which customizes its trips to fit individual interests and capabilities.
Trekking guides secure permits for overnight camping, prepare meals, and often provide essential gear such as sleeping bags, tents, and hiking poles. Some, including SA Expeditions, offer packhorse service to schlep your heavy gear each day to your campsite.
Shooting in the Sierra
You need to be in reasonable shape to hike the Sierra, where the thin air makes the heart pump and steals the breath. The physical challenges of the trail require minimizing weight in your pack, including camera kit; your back will thank you for leaving the heavy tripod and 500mm telephoto lens at home (If you have packhorse support, you may be able to make more room in your daypack for photographic gear).
On my purely bipedal foray into the Wilderness, I carried a fixed-lens compact camera that rode easily around my neck and could be stuffed under my raincoat in the event of thunderstorms. A mirrorless APS-C or Micro Four Thirds body coupled with a superzoom—or two smallish lenses covering focal lengths from wide angle to medium telephoto—would also fit the bill. If you’re on a group trek that doesn’t allow for frequent stops to change lenses or filters, a smartphone is an invaluable option for shooting on the move.
Compositions are everywhere you look in the AAW: the ever-changing play of light and shadow on the mountains; shapes and patterns formed by the confluence of flowing water with burnished stone; white pine and hemlock trees twisted into surreal forms by wind and the weight of winter snow. On calm days, lakes turn into limpid mirror pools that capture reflections of sheer granite walls, rocky islets, and clouds.
The challenge is managing the strong, ever-changing alpine light, and being ready to seize moments on the trail or in camp when a composition presents itself. Mountaintop vistas beg for wide-angle or pano treatment, but a telephoto perspective can also pay dividends in the Wilderness, letting you home in on details like rock formations, isolated trees, and distant lakes that would otherwise be lost in the vast landscape.
Seeing like Ansel
Dark skies and dramatic clouds are part of Adams’ distinctive style. A polarizing filter can channel your inner Ansel by darkening blue sky and making clouds pop in your photos. (In addition to a polarizer, I used a graduated neutral density filter to tone down bright skies and sunlit ridgetops while lightening foreground elements such as shaded shorelines and lake reflections).
While shooting like the master, why not go all in and try the monochrome look? The juxtaposition of expanses of white stone with darker features such as evergreen trees and lakes can make for compelling images when color files are converted to black and white in post. Or, if you have black and white film in your camera, it’s fun to experiment with colored filters to subtly—or not so subtly—alter the tonal values of your negatives. Adams made liberal use of red, orange, and green filters to achieve his signature brooding skies and heighten local contrast in the scene.
Shooting opportunities don’t end after sundown; far from city lights, Wilderness skies are among the darkest in the Lower 48, an inky backdrop for the constellations, planets, and the Milky Way arcing over tarns and ghostly-white ridgetops. An ultra-light tripod is sufficient to support a small camera with a fast, wide-angle lens; I packed a tiny tabletop tripod that I could balance on a rock or log.
After your photographic adventure in the AAW, you can extend your trip—assuming your legs haven’t turned to jelly—by exploring Devils Postpile National Monument, adjacent to the Wilderness southwest of Mammoth Lakes. Prime photo locations include an impressive columnar rock formation and 100-foot Rainbow Falls, aptly named for the hues that shimmer in its misty outfall on sunny days. Or maybe you’re just looking for a hot shower and a decent phone signal. Red’s Meadow Resort, a summer mountain lodge just two miles from the Monument, offers showers for a fee, in addition to rooms, a restaurant, and a general store with Wi-Fi.
About the author: Phil Davies is a writer and landscape photographer based in St. Paul, Minnesota. Visit his website to see more of his work. His travel book Scenic Driving Minnesota was published by Globe Pequot Press in 2024.