The Hummingbird, chef Ricardo Zarate’s irreverent ceviche shack perched in Echo Park, is one of those iykyk restaurants that has quietly become a locals’ favorite and even lured some Westside regulars for its lip-puckering ceviches, Nikkei hand rolls, and aji-spiked risotto de mariscos. Zarate (of Picca and Rosaliné fame) feels both at his most relaxed and confident in the casual space, often behind the counter portioning out dishes himself. In the Hummingbird’s dark, narrow dining room splashed with neon light, Angelenos can easily find the nirvana its namesake bird represents.

The tiled interior evokes a gritty underground club or dive bar; fuchsia light bathes a focal piano alcove in a beckoning glow. (Does anyone take to the keys ever? Linger long enough to find out.) Couples have claimed this as a prime date-night spot, either sitting at two-tops or nestled at the bar, but it’s also a fun place to catch up with an old friend.

Go the tasting menu route for $60, $75, or $100 to experience more of the menu. The restaurant doesn’t serve alcohol (although that doesn’t stop its fun, as regulars know): Find canned THC drinks, non-alcoholic wines, and earthy purple corn iced tea topped with chopped pineapple and apples to brighten it.