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The tandoori pomfret ($18) from Ahaa Indian Cuisine in the Mission looks like it could be covered in Flamin’ Hot Cheeto dust. The butterfish is scored and fully coated in ruby red masala, then roasted until charred at the edges. The tender white meat peels right off the thin bones, and offers satisfying spiced depth that’s accentuated by the tandoori flame. The sharpness of the accompaniments, while simple – raw white onions and a lime wedge – tie the dish together.

Ahaa Indian Cuisine. 3316 17th St., San Francisco. aahasfo.com

The pastrami chopped cheese from Krispy Joe's Coffee House in Emeryville. (Cesar Hernandez/S.F. Chronicle)

The pastrami chopped cheese from Krispy Joe’s Coffee House in Emeryville. (Cesar Hernandez/S.F. Chronicle)

I made it to Krispy Joe’s Coffee House in Emeryville, the pirate-themed, pastrami-centric cafe from Cash Caris following the closure of uber-popular Delirama in Berkeley. Thin-cut pastrami still pleases with its faint smokiness, but the classic sandwiches don’t quite shine as bright as Delirama’s – perhaps in part because Caris outsources the bread. The standout from a recent visit was a special: the gooey, saucy chopped cheese ($22), served on a French roll slotted with arugula, pickled chiles and pastrami twirled with onions and molten cheese.

Krispy Joe’s Coffee House. 5512 San Pablo Ave, Emeryville. krispyjoes.square.site

The mongolian long beans from Mission Chinese in San Francisco. (Cesar Hernandez/S.F. Chronicle)

The mongolian long beans from Mission Chinese in San Francisco. (Cesar Hernandez/S.F. Chronicle)

I checked out Mission Chinese Food in the city, whose dining room screams with DIY charm. A paper dragon hangs from the ceilings and three-eyed tigers breathe fire against a silver Mylar background. Most of what I sampled does not merit mentioning, except the excellent Mongolian long beans ($18), whose combination of horseradish and Sichuan peppercorns had my tongue buzzing. With wok hei, the green beans had a satisfying crunch, and moderate heat balanced with sweetness.

Mission Chinese Food. 2234 Mission St., San Francisco. missionchinesefood.com/sanfrancisco

This article originally published at A Flamin’ Hot Cheeto grilled fish in S.F.? No, this is better.