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This week, four holidays and one solar eclipse collided, with a rarity that felt like the festive equivalent of getting struck by lightning. President’s Day kicked off on Monday and then, due to a rare calendar alignment, on Tuesday Lunar New Year and Fat Tuesday coincided, while Ramadan and Lent began Wednesday and will both continue throughout the next month.
I’m using the confluence as a means to appreciate some of the world’s most introspective practices in which food is often at the center.
A few L.A. businesses seem tailor-made for the occasion when Lunar New Year and Mardi Gras intersect, such as New Orleans-themed restaurant Little Jewel of New Orleans, which is located in the heart of Chinatown. Scores of local restaurants are diving into their respective festivities with special menus and events.
But the thrill of folding dumplings or frying beignets at home is calling.
Lunar New Year is a time for renewal and reflection, with food often used to help usher in good fortune, longevity and unity. Dishes such as dumplings can signify wealth, while long, unbroken noodles aim to welcome long life. Whole dishes, such as whole fish or whole chicken, can symbolize togetherness.
Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday, is a holiday to let the good times roll. The pre-Lent feast is celebrated with revelry and, especially in New Orleans, some of the country’s most iconic dishes. This is a time for rich, decadent meats, desserts, fried snacks and other bites that, once consumed, can help prepare the mind and body for Lent’s 40 days of more austere dining, restraint, repentance and reflection. Those observing Lent might avoid meat every Friday or throughout the week until Easter, but there are unlimited satisfying vegetarian and pescatarian recipes to fit the holiday menu.
Fasting from dawn to sundown during Ramadan, Islam’s holy month, is intended to focus attention on spirituality, gratitude and prayer. A predawn meal of suhoor is meant to fortify and hydrate the body, mind and soul before the day of fasting begins, while iftar breaks the fast.
Whether you’re dining during daylight hours or sundown, or whether you’re celebrating longevity or introspection, here are recipes to welcome or honor each of the holidays.
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Golden Bag Chicken Dumplings With Thai Sweet Chile Sauce for Lunar New Year
Bamboo chef Marie Surakul can make thousands of dumplings for her restaurant’s guests during Lunar New Year, and here she shares her recipe for a spin on her family’s Thai chicken dumplings with a sweet-spicy dipping sauce. “The dumpling name in Thai means bag of money,” she told The Times, “so we made them as a family in Thailand to add some lucky charm into our prayers.” Both the filling and the sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated, making this an excellent recipe for prepping in advance.
Get the recipe.
Cook time: 2 hours. Makes 20 dumplings.
(Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
New Orleans-Style Beignets for Mardi Gras
Biting into a pillowy, powdered beignet still fresh from the fryer is one of life’s finest pleasures, and there’s no time like Mardi Gras to indulge in one of New Orleans’ most famous dishes. This recipe is adapted from one by chef Bryan Gilmore of the Creole Creamery in New Orleans, and provides essential tips for frying these doughnuts to a perfect golden hue.
Get the recipe.
Cook time: 30 minutes. Makes 3 dozen beignets.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Slow-Roasted Salmon with Dill and Lemon Salsa Verde for Lent
For many who observe Lent, fish on Fridays is traditional — though some eschew meat for the full 40 days. But this recipe from former L.A. Times Cooking columnist Ben Mims fits the bill year-round, covering roast salmon with a dilly, freshly made Italian-style salsa verde for a quick, easy-to-assemble meal that’s both healthful and flavorful.
Get the recipe.
Cook time: 45 minutes. Served 4 to 6.
(Silvia Razgova / For The Times)
Tharid (Arabian Meat and Vegetable Stew Over Crispy Bread) for Iftar
Tharid, a version of fatteh, is a dish often served during Iftar due to its hearty nature. This version from chef, author and food historian Anissa Helou can substitute more-ubiquitous markouk or lavash for the flatbread regag, which can be harder to purchase in the U.S.
Get the recipe.
Cook time: 2 hours and 15 minutes. Serves 6 to 8.
(Kristin Perers / For The Times)