Despite the darkness and a cold January wind, a line formed out the door of Bar Panisse. Inside, every seat was occupied. The Save César Berkeley campaign collected more than 4,000 signatures to protest Bar Panisse from opening in Bar César’s place—to no avail. Those Bay Area residents who didn’t object to the closure are now arriving in their winter wardrobes to fill the seats. Perhaps some of Save César’s signatories also stop by but are disguised by many layers of puffy clothing.
The décor mirrors Chez Panisse’s signature Arts and Crafts flourishes. Dark wood panels cover the walls behind the diners and the refurbished bar. The characters in Hamnet wouldn’t feel out of place ordering a hard apple cider or a pale ale there. Each glazed bathroom tile looks like it was made by someone’s hands and a hot fire. They’re the color of peaches and nectarines baked into a galette. In a nod to its older sister next door, a framed ninth anniversary poster evokes, font-wise, all the covers of Alice Waters’ cookbooks.
Each section of the menu is intentionally spare. Conceptually, Bar Panisse isn’t daring or ambitious. It’s a companionable space for cozy date nights both platonic and romantic. Couples also sat with other pre- or post-prandial couples. No one gets the advantage of a reservation, but the bar seating fills up before the tables. Those customers get a close-up view of the bartender’s cocktail shakers while the sound of daiquiris getting iced echoes across the room.
At the bottom of the cocktail list a note credits the gimlets, sazeracs and martinis to Prizefighter Bar’s Dylan O’Brien. They range in price from $12 to $14. Bar Panisse’s wine list doesn’t stray from California or the major European players, France and Italy. The most expensive bottle is a $76 sparkling chardonnay from Jura; the least expensive a $56 pinot grigio from Alto Adige. Draft and canned beers are from Northern California, except for a nonalcoholic option from Athletic Brewing in San Diego ($5–$8). One hard cider from Oregon completes the list of beverages.
A roast chicken with leeks, fava greens and chanterelles ($35) comprises the most substantial dish on the food menu. But Bar Panisse is a temporary stopping place, gathering attention because of its adjacency to a preeminent culinary destination. The couple in line before us sat at the bar, drank one drink, then left without lingering.
Table turnover is relatively fast, thus the line doesn’t appear to be particularly daunting. We showed up shortly after the 5pm opening hour and waited less than 15 minutes for a seat. The staff seemed unusually serene and coolly capable of dealing with a crowd of eager—and potentially impatient—patrons.
To soothe the guests right after they’ve been seated, someone immediately brings a small bowl of salt and vinegar chips to the table. Our server hastened to describe them as “complimentary.” A crisp delight, they were better than any store-bought version with the same flavor profile. A plate of olives, one of the smallest “small bites,” cost $7.
Winter has dislodged summer to become my favorite season for ordering salad. Bar Panisse serves one with chicories, pumpkin, dates and fried sage ($17). The bitter red leaves were all simply and evenly dressed. Nearly pulverized pieces of pumpkin complemented the chicories with their innate sweetness. They’d been baked or roasted down to a texture very near to a semi-purée, a novel combination that worked as a marriage of flavors and textures.
The simple must-have for the evening embodied the Chez Panisse ethos. Scallions, yogurt, honey and thyme ($14) is part of the “small fry” section of the menu, which also includes anchovy fritters ($14), potatoes ($13) or cauliflower ($14). I use scallions in the kitchen almost daily, but chopped up, sautéed or as a garnish.
Bar Panisse honors them as a vegetable with its own distinct identity. The fry was akin to a tempura batter, all golden, crispy and light. And the frayed edges of the stem that slipped out of the coating turned deliciously soft and chewy. Dipping them in a fresh dollop of yogurt enhanced the bite. I’d eat these over french fries any day of the week.
Bar Panisse, 1515 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley. Thu-Mon, 5–10pm, no reservations. chezpanisse.com/bar-panisse. IG: @barpanisse